Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
Jayco RV Owners Forum
 


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 01-14-2024, 04:31 PM   #1
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: Loveland
Posts: 5
Suburban ST-60 On-Demand Water Heater E1 Error Fixed - Water Flow Improvement

Problem: Many of us with on-demand water heaters have experienced the problem of getting hot water at the tub but not at the sink. We waste water and get the E1 error code since there is not enough water flow at the sink to activate the water heater. Why this condition exists is explained by the factory plumbing.

The on-demand water heater in my 2023 Jayco 195RB is activated by water flow and that is volume not pressure. One can have great pressure and poor flow a water nozzle is an example.

The water pump and water pressure regulator are assumed to deliver a constant volume over time of 3 GPM at 45 PSI so the only thing one can change is the flow restrictions in the diameter of the piping and reduce the number of elbows and tees.

The cross-sectional area of 1/2 inch ID Aqualock Fitting - .79
The cross-sectional area of 3/8 inch ID PEX Fitting - .44

Each elbow reduces the flow by about 5% at a minimum and I had 5 3/8 ID PEX elbows or tees between the pump and the kitchen faucet so that was at least another 25% reduction.

The following photos were of the plumbing the factory installed.

Before: As delivered from the factory there are a lot of elbows and tees restricting water flow. Plumbing was designed for easy assembly, not water flow. Those of you with E1 errors low flow is the cause of the error.

After: Two mini manifolds purpose-built from Watts Aqualock push to connect fittings with stackable tees and PEX-A. Remove the inlet screen from the water heater which blocks flow. The screen is unnecessary, and there is one at the pump and one at the city water inlet already, so it is redundant.
Tips:
Watts Aqualock doesnít reduce the ID to 3/8 inch like PEX crimp fittings do, you get a full 1/2 inch ID.
Using Watts Aqualock stackable tees one can make a mini manifold reducing the number of elbows and increasing flow.
Doing a retrofit in a tight space is only possible with push-to-connect since you canít get a crimp tool in there.
Used bend supports instead of elbows to make turns, easy with PEX-A
Insertion of the PEX tubing into the fitting works better if you put the PEX insert into the fitting first past the collet. Depending on the alignment of the tubing with the fitting the insert can get hung up if you put it into the piping before insertion.

Watts Aqualock comes in and wait for itÖ barbed hose to PEX connection the 3513.

I didnít use personally this as it was not available locally. I opted for brass 1/2 inch barbed to 1/2 FIP then converted using Aqualock 1/2 inch MIP to 1/2 PEX, these connections take Teflon tape only. You canít use pipe dope with these plastic fittings.

More information about Watts Aqualock at https://www.watts.com/aqualock

Performance:
Water heater lights immediately at 50% faucet in the kitchen. Low lag time to hot water since run lengths are reduced. Works like it is supposed to. Success!
Attached Thumbnails
IMG_0365.jpg   IMG_0367.jpg   Untitled.png   IMG_0374.jpg   IMG_0375.jpg  

IMG_0376.jpg   IMG_0377.jpg   IMG_0335.jpg  
wolfie53 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-02-2024, 09:43 PM   #2
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2023
Location: Pearland
Posts: 1
I recently changed out my tank water heater for a tankless. I also have the suburban ST 60. I have yet to get it to do any heating though. It gives me the error code E1 after attempting to start three times. It never actually does any heating. Only the blower comes on. I have checked the flow rate and if I take the showerhead off I can get it up to 1.75 GPM on City water supply. The hose delivers 7 gallons per minute but it is reduced down by all the fittings I assume in the water lines. Do you have a copy of a PDF of the operation and installation manual? If so, I would appreciate it if you would share it. I don’t have any way to troubleshoot without knowing what the error codes mean or what the minimum GPM is.
OTRA is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-03-2024, 07:22 AM   #3
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: State of
Posts: 431
Well done.
__________________
2016 19RD Elite - Thermal
DaveT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-03-2024, 08:13 AM   #4
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2021
Location: Troy
Posts: 1,356
Have the flow restrictors been removed from the faucets? I would take them out completely ant test. If the heater comes on, and you want to restrict the water a little, drill a slightly bigger hole in the restrictor and put it back in and test.
Kevin Cooper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-03-2024, 02:23 PM   #5
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: Loveland
Posts: 5
Quote:
Originally Posted by OTRA View Post
I recently changed out my tank water heater for a tankless. I also have the suburban ST 60. I have yet to get it to do any heating though. It gives me the error code E1 after attempting to start three times. It never actually does any heating. Only the blower comes on. I have checked the flow rate and if I take the showerhead off I can get it up to 1.75 GPM on City water supply. The hose delivers 7 gallons per minute but it is reduced down by all the fittings I assume in the water lines. Do you have a copy of a PDF of the operation and installation manual? If so, I would appreciate it if you would share it. I don’t have any way to troubleshoot without knowing what the error codes mean or what the minimum GPM is.
I seem to remember that 1.7 gpm is the minimum flow rate. Documentation is available on line.
wolfie53 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-03-2024, 02:24 PM   #6
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: Loveland
Posts: 5
Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveT View Post
Well done.
Thank you!
wolfie53 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-03-2024, 02:28 PM   #7
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: Loveland
Posts: 5
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin Cooper View Post
Have the flow restrictors been removed from the faucets? I would take them out completely ant test. If the heater comes on, and you want to restrict the water a little, drill a slightly bigger hole in the restrictor and put it back in and test.
No only the screen on the inlet of the water heater was removed. Without an aerator on the sink water was everywhere. Also just removing the aerator was not enough to reliably have the water heater activate. This is why I reworked the plumbing. Now 💯 success!
wolfie53 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
on demand hot water, st-60, tankless heater, tankless hot water heater, tankless water heater

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3
Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Jayco, Inc. or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:20 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Copyright 2002-2016 Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.