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Old 06-13-2016, 09:15 AM   #31
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Join Date: May 2016
Location: Cincinnati
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Thank you everyone for your comments. I am going to try and figure out if it happens while towing down the road or if it happens when I back up. Both times I noticed it were when I had backed into a camping space and again after backing into storage.

I do not feel comfortable installing a new WDH myself and I don't want to have to wait for the dealer to do it during prime camping season. I am going to watch it, adjust as needed and make a decision after the season.

Thanks again!


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Old 06-13-2016, 11:07 AM   #32
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Location: Central California
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I can certainly understand and respect feeling comfortable installing a WD hitch, but you really should read the manual watch some videos and develop a comfort level with it. WD hitches are NOT a one time installation and forget about item. They need to be adjusted and tweaked over time, especially as your trailer gains weight.

Secondly, I always disengage the WD before backing into a site. On an Equal-I-Zer the bars are designed to keep the TT straight in line behind the TT. That is the active portion of the sway control it includes. So when backing and swinging into a site you are putting extreme, and unnecessary, force on the hitch. This is perfect for going down the road to keep the trailer in check, but not helpful when backing into a site.

My opinion is you have a great hitch. Maybe need new brackets, but that's not a big deal. Also drop the bars before backing into a site, this will reduce force and make backing considerably easier.

2007 Chevy Duramax LMM/Allison
2012 Jay Flight 29QBH
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Old 06-13-2016, 11:09 AM   #33
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Duplicate post
2007 Chevy Duramax LMM/Allison
2012 Jay Flight 29QBH
2012 Jay Flight 26BH (Sold)
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Old 06-13-2016, 11:15 AM   #34
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I run a Fastway trunnion style WDH with the double anti-sway...same maker as Equalizer. Everything was installed to torque spec (65 ft lb, 75 ft lb, 250 ft lb if I recall the torque specs correctly) I haven't had any problem with mine moving........so far!
2001 Ford F250 7.3L Diesel Powerstroke
2016 Jayco 264BHW - 2015 Coleman 19RD (Sold) 2007 Fleetwood E3 (Sold) 2011 Jayco 184BH (Sold) 2007 Scamp 16 ft (Sold) 2005 Viking Epic 1906 (Sold)
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Old 06-13-2016, 12:45 PM   #35
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6K - 14K Models : Equal-i-zer Hitch Store
2010 Jay Flight 28BHS
2007 Yukon XL 2500 6.0L 4X4
Equal-I-zer Hitch
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Old 06-15-2016, 08:33 PM   #36
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Check your bolts and nuts. Had a similar issue with one of the link plates moving on our camper. I messed with it for three seasons and was completely fed up and ready to replace it. I was removing for a last ditch attempt to fix it and found the problem. One of the link plate nuts had a burr in it. This caused it to get tight and reach the torque spec before it was actually tight against the bracket. I replaced the bolts and haven't had a problem since

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Old 09-12-2016, 11:07 PM   #37
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I would recommend the Re-Curve R3 or R6 WDH. I know that a lot of people on here either never heard of them or don't have much experience using them. But after looking into the competition I have found that for the price of a pro ride and what to me looks that the pain of hanging chains the Re-Curve is by far better. I have one and it has had zero problems, works great, super easy to hook up, and I have never had any sway from truckers or heavy cross winds that I have driven through. Also since the arms sit level with the hitch it also does great when I run into a steep dip or high spot that comes along when pulling out if a gas station or where ever. I have seen some hang so low they hit the ground it situations like that. Just my opinion but that's been my experience so far.

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2016 White Hawk 25BHS - 2016 F-150 Lariat V-6 ECO-BEAST (Ruby Red) Max tow package, RAS Suspension, & Recurve R-3 WD hitch. Can't forget the dog "Olive" all black lab :)
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