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Old 07-22-2014, 09:18 AM   #1
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Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: whiteford
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roof replacement..lots of questions

We opened our camper over the weekend and noticed some of the ceiling was wrinkling. Sure enough we climbed on the roof and saw that there is a small leak in the seam. The dealer says that they will have to replace the entire roof even though it is about a 5 x 3 section that is damaged. Does this sound accurate? We have a 2003 Jayco Kiwi 25e and the damage is over the sofa on the slideout. They cannot even get it in until September...can we just reculk the outside with dicor until then? I know the damage is all the way thru as we cut a hole in the ceiling of the closet and the plywood is wet. I can live with a wrinkled ceiling, but if we just re culk and stop the leak, will leaving the inside unfixd cause problems down the road? Any advise and information would be helpful....thanks.

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Old 07-22-2014, 11:53 AM   #2
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Welcome to JOF

Until the existing roofing material (TPO or EPDM) is removed the extent of the wood (plywood, trusses, etc.) damage remains an unknown.

As a short term fix caulking may stop the leak, but I wouldn't consider it a final repair. There could be some structural issues do to rotted wood and/or mildew issues.

As far as the interior, it may not require replacement as long as mildew isn't present, so it just remains a cosmetic matter.



2016 GM 2500HD 6.0L/4.10
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Old 07-30-2014, 02:33 PM   #3
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Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Calgary
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I am just going through the same issue on my 2006 Jayco 23B. I am not expert in this issue, but here is what I have found out so far. The quick summary is that for a 'proper' repair apparently the roof does have to be removed.

One thing I have done so far is to have the unit examined by a qualified repair shop. The tech used a moisture meter to determine how much of the ceiling is wet; the meter looks sort of like a Tazer and beeps if the two pins detect moisture behind the head liner. The moisture extended well beyond the apparent ceiling damage around our A/C unit.

I looked up the 2003 Jayco Brochure. I notice it does not show a clear diagram of the roof structure, but indicates it is similar to my 2006, which has a good picture. You can download pdf's of the brochures here to take a look. Note Jayco changed the roof design around model year 2010; just go through the brochures to see the change-over.


The roof is formed by a bonded panel consisting of, from the top
  • TPO roof membrane
  • 1/8" luan board
  • R-7 or R-9 bead-foam insulation ('styrofoam')
  • 1/8" luan board
  • The white headliner material
  • Not sure on the included truss pieces in this assembly, trying to find that out. I found a reference to the framing / truss system here, along with a successful DIY repair strategy https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/sh...ht=roof+repair
My assumption is that the luan is bonded to the StyrofoamStyrofoam and trusses with compatible contact cement and vacuum formed. This makes a very rigid panel. The bottom layer of luan is in tension from roof load, and would provide a lot of the roof strength. All good until the luan strength is compromised by rot.

I am presently in the process of trying to find someone locally who will do (or at least quote on) the repair by replacing a portion of the interior luan and headliner after resealing the roof membrane. If we can't get this done, it looks like the entire roof needs replacement, which is looking like a $7K to $10K job. As the value of the trailer is only ~$15K, we will probably trade it in on a new unit rather than perform the major repair.

Everyone I have contacted for repair ideas asked we contact our insurance company and go from there. I expect this is because very few folks get the full boat roof replacement done on their own dime.

In looking at the Jayco hybrid roof leaking issue and our own situation, the problem is caused by some or all of the following. This seems to be addressed in both the new Jayco roof design and a similar panel design in the current Rockwood Roo, which we are considering as a replacement.
  • Air conditioner unit too heavy for the truss & framing system
  • A/C bolts insufficiently fastened at the plant, allowing bouncing to damage the roof system.
  • Failure of the A/C gasket allowing leakage
  • Flat roof design allowing water to pond around the A/C unit, particularly as the roof sags due to the above. note both the revised Jayco and Roo designs are curved to encourage water run off.
  • Freeze / thaw cycle during winter storage. This is a huge issue in Calgary where we routinely get chinook winds during the winter melting the snow.
  • Insufficient attention by the owner to regularly examine and rectify compromised roof membrane / caulking.
HTH As I say, not expert but finding out some options. Let me know what you find out, as we definitely need to get this resolved prior to the fall. One thing I am going to do is purchase a fitted RV cover to protect what we have now and prevent further damage.

2006 Jayco 23B
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