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Old 03-01-2016, 04:48 PM   #31
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Kevlar, I don't know if they wire the HT like the NorthPoint and Pinnacle, but look at the area where all the wires goto near the battery.
Part of the "pre wire" is hooking it up to the battery.
It's not, physically, a wire hooked to the battery. It's is hooked to a breaker..then goes to where the other 12v+ wires junction before going to the battery.
Red wire in the picture is the breaker and the solar wire.
Follow it back from there best you can.
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Old 03-01-2016, 09:41 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klassic View Post
Kevlar, I don't know if they wire the HT like the NorthPoint and Pinnacle, but look at the area where all the wires goto near the battery.
Part of the "pre wire" is hooking it up to the battery.
It's not, physically, a wire hooked to the battery. It's is hooked to a breaker..then goes to where the other 12v+ wires junction before going to the battery.
Red wire in the picture is the breaker and the solar wire.
Follow it back from there best you can.
So you are saying that your "pre-wire" is already connected from the roof directly to the battery? That doesn't make sense (to me) because any roof panel(s) large enough to require 8-gauge wire are going to require a controller between the panels and the batteries..... I'm going to have to open up the panels in my basement and just find the damn wires!!! LOL!!!
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Old 03-01-2016, 10:06 PM   #33
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No.... Look at the other pictures.
Comes from the roof to behind the basement wall..coiled up...wire stops and ends are taped.
New wire coiled up..taped ends. I assume (I haven't looked) the white is going to the ground bar in the converter panel. The red goes to the battery area...hooked to 30 amp breaker...From breaker to battery disconnect stud where the other 12v wires meet then off to the battery.
Sooo, yes it is already "pre wired" to the battery.
No, it doesn't go directly to the roof from the battery.
Yes they are 8ga. Yes it requires a controller.
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Old 03-01-2016, 10:25 PM   #34
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OK. I'll likely abandon the "lower" section, and run bigger wire from my controller to the inverter, then from the inverter direct to the battery. This will allow me to "shut off" the 12v to the unit by using the factory battery switch, yet allow my solar system to keep the batteries charged. I'll install my own shutoff on the feed from the panels to th controller, next to the controller. (just like my previous unit was wired)
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Old 03-01-2016, 10:37 PM   #35
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Right now it's wired so the converter keeps the battery charged while the disconnect switch is off.
There are two wires coming from the Progessive Dynamics converter. One is hooked to the "other side" of the disconnect along with the wire coming from the battery and, I think, the solar wire.
The other side of the disconnect has the other 12v accessories that need to be shut off and the other wire going back to the converter's 12v buss, which would switch off the rest of the rigs 12v

I'll check and take a better pic of the disconnect switch area. Looking at my picture above has me confused cause I think that's the disconnect switch that is half cut out of the picture. It was a while ago when I traced all this.
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Old 03-01-2016, 11:03 PM   #36
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What is the wattage of the Progressive Dynamics converter? And do they have it wired to supply the entire unit? or just certain outlets? I have a Xantrex PW2000 that I can wire into the system to power about anything (except the fridges and AC) with the batteries (4-6V golf cart batteries), and charged by the solar. Depending on the output and wiring of the factory Progressive Dynamics, I could install my Xantrex, plug the trailer into the xantrex, and then just turn the Progressive Dynamics unit and the 12v converter off when plugged into the solar system and Xantrex..... I need to get out and figure out what runs from the Progressive Dynamics unit and what doesn't......
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Old 03-01-2016, 11:37 PM   #37
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Here is the converter PD4590
All-in-One 240V, 50 Amp AC/DC Power Distribution Panel

It's wired to all plugs except not directly to the residential fridge, which goes to the inverter's transfer switch first.
All big 12v items are from DC breakers in the battery area. (Ground Control, slides)
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Old 03-01-2016, 11:51 PM   #38
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It's starting to all make sense now. I'm really at a deficit, as I had a crappy PDI, and then then unit went right into winter storage the day that it got home, so I really don't know what does what.... I don't have the residential fridge, so I don't think that I have ANY inverter installed. I really don't know what works when not plugged in vs when plugged in. If there is no inverter, this will be easy for me. I'll just wire in my inverter, and control what I want running by the breaker switch or, in the case of the outside fridge, but unplugging it when I'm boon docking. If there is a factory invereter, and some 12v stuff works when not plugged in, it will just take m longer to figure it all out. My previous Rockwood had an all-12v entertainment system, including a 12v television. If there is no inverter, my TV's are 120v, so therefore won't work unless plugged in, or unless I install my Xantrex.

Thank you for all of your great info. It's really helping me figure out the few photos and the ridiculously over-simplified (bordering on useless) manual!!
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Old 03-02-2016, 12:01 AM   #39
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No residential fridge then no inverter.
If your Tv has a lift, the lift motor is 12v...the tv is 120v, the stereo/dvd is 12v
The other tv's have built in DVD's
The micro is by itself.
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Old 03-02-2016, 12:16 AM   #40
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Quote:
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No residential fridge then no inverter.
If your Tv has a lift, the lift motor is 12v...the tv is 120v, the stereo/dvd is 12v
The other tv's have built in DVD's
The micro is by itself.
HUGE help!!! Thank you!
I believe that outside fridge is just a small residential plug-in, with no inverter supplying it, so I'll just unplug it and not use it when dry-camping and using the Xantrex.

So it will be similar to the way my system was set-on my previous Rockwood. The solar panels will supply the controller/charger with the 8-gauge from the roof. From the controller, I'll run a pair of short 4/0 wires to the Xantrex. I'll run #0 wire (1/0) from the Xantrex to the four batteries, so that the Xantrex can run at full amperage. I'll hard-wire a 120v plug into the Xantrex, then run conduit along the underside, to the area of the side plug-in for the 50A cord. I'll install a 120v outlet next to the plug-in, then make-up a pigtail that will allow me to plug the trailer into the Xantrex. All I'll have to do is make sure that the 12v charger in the Progressive Dynamics unit is switched off, and the fridge on "propane only", and I'll be all set! All sounds complicated, but actually very easy.

You've been a huge help figuring this all out, Klassic, and I really appreciate it!!!!!
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