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Old 01-06-2011, 08:51 AM   #11
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You can do the enclosed underbelly yourself very easily with plasticor (plastic cardboard) it will reduce air friction under your trailer when towing... Not sure if I would spray insulation in there though.. if you ever had to work on something under there it would be a real pain... extra fiberglass insulation might be a good idea though.
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2004 Chev Silverado Duramax optioned past the max. 2009 Jayco Eagle 308 RLS 765 watts of solar, 6-6 volt batteries (696 amp hour), 2000 watt (4000 surge) whole house inverter.
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Old 01-06-2011, 04:34 PM   #12
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I don't camp in freezing cold weather either. Too much "hassle" with dumping, external water pipes, frozen doors/windows and running and furnace more often then it needs to. To me, stick houses are made for winter months. RVs are made for "fun time" summer months. If I cannot camp in a spring coat or T-shirt (or less), then camping isn't fun. I got back to my stick house.

Do keep in mind that insulation (like high efficiency Spray Foam) is great for hot summer months as well. Better then factory insulation forces the AC unit work much less and thus, much quieter inside your RV/TT as well.

Some say that spray foam (on floors, walls and ceiling cavities) allows its insides to be headed with a candle. Same is reverse in the hot summer months. re: Cool the insides with a frozen popsicle.

If our TT's roof or walls need repairing, I'll be applying Professional Grade CC - 2 lbs in their cavities as well. Spray foam "tightens up" its construction and creates huge energy efficiency. And, can take water abuse as well.

IMO, installing plasticor (plastic cardboard) on the 5ers/TTs underbelly allows critters a very comfortable floor to stand on. Once standing on this floor, they drill "upwards" - with their front legs. And this plasticor (plastic cardboard) creates little wind resistance benefits. Especially when the 5er/TT is tucked behind its Tow Vehicle - that is taking the bulk of the head wind.

Professional Grade Spray Foam (Closed Cell - 2 lbs) is amazing stuff. Well worth using within TTs, 5ers and RVs.

Good luck...

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Old 01-07-2011, 09:45 AM   #13
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So where can you get something like this done? I've got the factory underbelly, but I'd like to at least get a DIY kit so that I can fill in any of the holes that are underneath (mainly to keep the critters out).
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Old 01-07-2011, 12:26 PM   #14
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The first step in getting a contractor to apply Spray Foam to TTs / 5ers underbelly is to obtain financial estimates. Many companies will provide "over the phone" estimates (based on provided measurements - like 10ft x 25 ft x 3.5" thick) and others need to see your situation first. Some companies can visit your TT/5er using their Mobile truck/trailer and others ask you to bring your tt/5er to their shop (to be inspected withih their well lighted Spray Foam booths).

To obtain initial financial estimates, simply use Google Search - to find the Spray Faom companies within your area. For example (for your Austin Texas region), surf the many URLs within: http://www.google.ca/#hl=en&safe=off...f023fa88c5b3eb

If into DIY Spray kits, surf http://www.rhhfoamsystems.com/ When using DIY kits, remember to order 20% more square footage - for "learning curve" waste. From my experience, "contractor grade" Spray Foam (applied by a certified contractor) is much better approach. And, remember to use Close Cell - 2 lbs. 1 lbs is too light (fluffy) and Open Cell cannot take water exposure. For TTs/5ers/RVs, only use CC - 2 lbs Spray Foam.

Note: Do shop around because estimates do "dramatically" vary. When obtaining cost estimates for my TT, the cost range was double - from different contractors. And, they used a product that wasn't very good either. Like any consumer purchase items, do shop wisely (for price and product quality).

If you feel "applying" spray foam is within your wallet depth, the next step is to prepare your TTs / 5ers underbelly. Simply remove existing underbelly panels, fabric materials and existing Fiber Glass insulation. And, prepare the underside for spraying. The more you can prepare, they less cost they charge you. Like paining a vehicle, the master sprayer guy comes in, sprays and leaves. You don't want to pay an expensive master painter to waste time on incorrect prep work. Same approach applies to spray foaming a TT (or insides of a refridgeration truck).

For initial preparation tasks of existing insulation removals, surf:
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_0594.jpg
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_0601.jpg
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_0602.jpg

With underside wood floor exposed, Re-route all under belly wires into nice straight and smooth 90 degree corner runs. And, install all wiring within over sized plastic loom as well. Wire loom can be fastened to under floor wood using galvanized steel strapping and 1/2" wood screws. If you need to replace a future wire, simply re-fish the wire into to over sized plastic loom. Push fiberglass between the tanks under floor gaps as well. If spray foam is applied within the tank / floor gap, the foam will expand and press the tanks down. Thus, warping the top of the tank or could break its holding straps. Simply push fiber glass insulation between tank and its gap. Or, apply blockage material in this gap area.

For example:
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_0658.jpg
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_0657.jpg

Remember to apply barrier cover under the tubs gooseneck as well. Thus, reducing spray foam getting into the underside of the tub. For example: http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_2056.jpg

Then, apply plastic sheets around items that cannot be sprayed. For example, tank valves, slide out gears, slide out motors, etc. etc. And, apply pastic to reduce over spray on unwanted areas as well. After spray foam, simply remove this plastic.

For example:
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_0670.jpg
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_0669.jpg
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_0672.jpg

If you plan to install future wiring (like 12V brake wiring replacement) or 12V wiring for additional lighting, install a 3/4" PVC pipe with split out boxes every 10 feet. When you plan to install future wiring, simply fish the wiring into this pipe.

For example:
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_0664.jpg
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_0688.jpg

The above is how I replaced the factory fiber glass insulation with Contractor Grade Spray Foam under our 2006 Jayco. For our next TT / 5er, I'd do this upgrade again - without hesitation.

Good luck in your TT/5er insulation upgrades...

.
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Old 01-07-2011, 02:07 PM   #15
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Dang Spike, excellent info!! Can you come to Austin and help me do this???
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Old 01-08-2011, 08:43 AM   #16
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Dang Spike, excellent info!! Can you come to Austin and help me do this???
If I was in your Austin area, I'd love to help you out. Doing projects like this is easy for me. Being previous auto-body repair person, I've learned a few prep skills - that apply to this project as well.

When the Contractor spray foamed the underbelly of my TT, I wasn't able to video the task. He suggested I stay clear - unless I had protective clothing and a mask on. I would have loved videoing how 3.5" of spray foam was applied and how it expanded into the many cracks / holes (left by the TT factory).

To view the insides of a Sprinter van being sprayed, surf: Same Closed Cell foam was used on this project as well. For temperature "stability" and many other benefits, spray foam is amazing stuff.

Hope this helps as well....

.
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Old 01-11-2011, 11:22 AM   #17
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As I read the specs, the Polar Package is available only on the 5ers. I sure wanted it on our ordered 320RLDS. I talked to a guy in Arizona a couple weeks ago who had a 35' Eagle tt, don't know how old. I noticed he had a Polar Package decal by his door. Wonder why they discontinued it. Actually, I would only expect to gain another couple of weeks to our season up here anyway, so it's no great loss. Current temperature - minus 8 F.
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Old 01-17-2011, 10:56 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Spike99 View Post
For a good video about comparing traditonal Fiberglass to Spray Foam (for insulation, critter living reduction, water entry resistance, etc, etc.), surf entire video at:



Comparison speaks for itself....

If planning to get your trailer's underbelly insulated, do get professional grade spray foam. As I posted above, before and after comparison is amazing. To me. all RVs trailers need to use Professional Grade Foam....

.
The more I read your post Spike the more I like you. I do HVAC for a living and we are NATE and BPI (building performance institute) certified and in my opinion whether its your house or TT spray foam is definitely the way to go. You sent me those pics before about STAR wiring for brakes, was actually gonna ask you about the foam and who did it. Its gotta make a huge difference for summer and winter.

On another note, I am curious how much weight this adds to TT. I know its foam but its dense. Did you ever ask that question spike? would you have an estimate? This is something I would like to do to mine in the spring.
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