hanging some peg board

[JKyle]

ok, I've got myself a Jay Feather 22rb. The front passthrough is large, but had bed base intrusion. Theres a nice place (on each side) high up, theres nice, flat, vertical space where I'd like to put some peg board that might hold some handy, readily available, frequent use tools etc. Those 'walls' are about 40" wide and 10" tall. They are literally made of the thin paneling you find throughout the trailer. There's more vertical space where the nightstand intrude into the passthrough that might make for a piece of pegboard placement, as well.

How would you mount the peg board? I was thinking about using double stick foam tape stuff to stick up spacer boards (1/2" thick) then screwing the peg bard to that. The peg board won't be holding anything crazy heavy, but there's no way any screw will hold it into the thin paneling stuff.

[Camper_bob]

Maybe not an issue where you live, but around here, pretty much anything using adhesives exposed to the kinds of temperatures we get here, tends to have a short life. Especially if attached to any kind of porous surface.

I tried something similar in my TT's basement using command hooks. First issue was that they didn't tend to stick well to the unfinished wood surfaces down there. Second issue was one side was "finished", and the command hooks pulled the finish away from the wood. I didn't really care how it looked because it was a basement, and I'm a function over form kinda guy. But it didn't function well either, so that idea was a bust for me.

I think I might try to use mechanical attachments (screws/brackets, etc) to build up some kind of bracing for the back of the peg board. There should be 1x1 framing down there that you can tap into?

[JKyle]

I did some unscrewing of the actual surface panel. It's literally the panel on the lower portion of the side cabinet, next to the mattress. There's some wood at the top I could tap into...the same wood the actual panel is screwed into. Only attaching the board at the top would probably work and then maybe just a bit of blocking at the bottom edge, attached with the adhesive I talked about, for support/stability. The board wouldn't be that tall, 10" at most.

I know what you mean about things sticking. I was thinking about a roll of that cheap, white foam tape. I know whenever I used in the past, I was sorry, because I knew it was never coming completely off. It was more popular in the days, before Command strips.

[JFlightRisk]

Bolting or screwing some 1/2" thick furring strips to the top and bottom, or the sides of the walls first will give the pegboard hooks space behind it. Too close and you won't be able to hook them into the holes if that's the kind of hardware you're thinking of using to hang tool and such to the pegboard pieces.

I attached a bunch of 4x8 pegboard sheets to a friend's garage walls with the furring strips, and it was just enough spacing behind them to use assorted pegboard hooks....lots of them.

[JKyle]

Yes, it's the furring strips I'm looking to attach, but how. Like I said. It's a small area and the board will really only need to be secured from the top and I believe I can get a furring strip tacked into the top portion, literally into what is the bed base. behind that piece of trip at the top side. The bottom portion just needs to provide the spacing, but doesn't necessarily have to HOLD the board up. That's where there's really no solid nailer space, BUT I could use the sticky strips there, just to hold a piece in place behind the board for the spacing.

[Happy wife / happy life]

You may look into construction adhesive. This product sets up quickly.

[JKyle]

Just what I was thinking. Thanks!

[Duke4857]

Using furling strips, you will loose some hooking space in your peg board. I bought a few of these, https://www.amazon.com/Pegboard-Moun...0cc737c28ac973
To stare putting peg board on my garage. After those were used I name my own Using 1/4" PVC pipe for the spacers. Use wall anchor or pop rivits instead of screws. Just a different approach.

[JKyle]

Originally Posted by JKyle

I did some unscrewing of the actual surface panel. It's literally the panel on the lower portion of the side cabinet, next to the mattress. There's some wood at the top I could tap into...the same wood the actual panel is screwed into. Only attaching the board at the top would probably work and then maybe just a bit of blocking at the bottom edge, attached with the adhesive I talked about, for support/stability. The board wouldn't be that tall, 10" at most.

I know what you mean about things sticking. I was thinking about a roll of that cheap, white foam tape. I know whenever I used in the past, I was sorry, because I knew it was never coming completely off. It was more popular in the days, before Command strips.

Nice day today in CT. I got out the saw and cut down my piece of pegboard. The trim on the upper part of the compartment made for a good surface to attach with screws along the top and one side. That trim also allowed 1/2" of good clearance for the pegs to be inserted. Overall, it worked out ok. I attached at the top and one side then glued spacers onto the back, bottom and other side, for support. They're only 10" tall BUT 34 inches wide. I have started to place some items: my drill, a level, some rolls of various tape, a flashlight, hammer. There's space for more stuff plus, there's the opposite side I'll do tomorrow.

[JKyle]

Originally Posted by JKyle

I did some unscrewing of the actual surface panel. It's literally the panel on the lower portion of the side cabinet, next to the mattress. There's some wood at the top I could tap into...the same wood the actual panel is screwed into. Only attaching the board at the top would probably work and then maybe just a bit of blocking at the bottom edge, attached with the adhesive I talked about, for support/stability. The board wouldn't be that tall, 10" at most.

I know what you mean about things sticking. I was thinking about a roll of that cheap, white foam tape. I know whenever I used in the past, I was sorry, because I knew it was never coming completely off. It was more popular in the days, before Command strips.

Originally Posted by JKyle

ok, I've got myself a Jay Feather 22rb. The front passthrough is large, but had bed base intrusion. Theres a nice place (on each side) high up, theres nice, flat, vertical space where I'd like to put some peg board that might hold some handy, readily available, frequent use tools etc. Those 'walls' are about 40" wide and 10" tall. They are literally made of the thin paneling you find throughout the trailer. There's more vertical space where the nightstand intrude into the passthrough that might make for a piece of pegboard placement, as well.

How would you mount the peg board? I was thinking about using double stick foam tape stuff to stick up spacer boards (1/2" thick) then screwing the peg bard to that. The peg board won't be holding anything crazy heavy, but there's no way any screw will hold it into the thin paneling stuff.

Voila! On the far side of the drill I have one of those little friction clips holding the nut driver but, for my drop down stabilizers.

The opposite side is where I'm going to use the pegboard space to house/mount and hang all the stuff I need when I need to empty my tanks. Glove holder, hand sanitizer holder, paper towel roll etc.

[videoarizona]

Great idea, gentlemen! I'm on it!!!

[CayennePepper]

To avoid having furring strips interfere with being able to put pegboard hooks into all the holes, rip a board on a tablesaw so it's just a hair thinner than the spaces between pegboard holes. Mount the strips vertically between pegboard holes. Drill countersunk holes for flathead screws to attach pegboard to furring strips. Been doing this for 60 years for workshop pegboard. For boards holding heavy items, space furring strips closer maybe 12" apart, if nothing heavy furring can be spaced farther apart. Experiment.

[JKyle]

Great idea about the thin strips. My problem was more about WHERE/HOW to attach anything since most of the surface was pretty much thin paneling with my mattress on the other side.

The holes at the top, even if I could get to them are pretty much accessible since you have to tilt any type of holder UP then down to catch the holes. I have to vertical space, so can't lift them up to put them in. Nevertheless, I managed a nice little space to put a few handy things in a handy spot.

[Spower]

I was able to screw 1x1's in and then mount the peg board to them. Love have easy access to stuff and being organized!

[JKyle]

Thats really nice. Your pass through wall is even along the entire length and accessible with a nice big door. My baggage doors are a really big size but the access to that back wall for me is restricted by the bedside stands pushing forward into the compartment inside each door. Also my headroom is less, with the bed hanging down into the pass through, as the trailer model is not as tall as some.

[Bugzilla46310]

For those who have pegboard, do the items fall off during travel from the fine roads many states have?

[Bugzilla46310]

Originally Posted by JKyle

Great idea about the thin strips. My problem was more about WHERE/HOW to attach anything since most of the surface was pretty much thin paneling with my mattress on the other side.

The holes at the top, even if I could get to them are pretty much accessible since you have to tilt any type of holder UP then down to catch the holes. I have to vertical space, so can't lift them up to put them in. Nevertheless, I managed a nice little space to put a few handy things in a handy spot.

Put the hooks in before you install the pegboard. Only negative is the hooks will not be removable.

[Spower]

No, I haven't had any issues with stuff falling off during travel.

[JKyle]

Good idea. Will consider this for the opposite side that I haven't installed, yet.