Wfco-8735-ad

[Ryan31b]

Hello all, I’m still new at this so forgive me if I am doing it incorrectly

I just wanted to update anyone who’s having a problem with WFCO converters and lithium batteries. I called WFCO and told them I had tried every fix suggested on the interwebs to fix the issue where auto detect stays in lead acid mode, and they told me there is a shunt they will send me to place on a pin to make the converter lithium-only… and that this will fix the issue.

If you’ve experienced these frustrations like I have, give them a call. They are east coast time, so keep that in mind.

[craigav]

Thanks Ryan, I don't think I Welcomed you when you joined, so Welcome to the Jayco Owner's Forums (JOF)

I have a quick question and one that doesn't really matter to me because I don't have a WFCO AD series, but for future reference, how did you determine that the converter wasn't going into Lithium mode? I suspect you determined this by monitoring the voltage, but thought I would ask just to know. Thanks, ~CA

[Ryan31b]

Hi! I’ve got the Victron shunt and bvm-712 installed. After depleting the battery until it shut down around 10v, I hooked up shore power to the camper. The green led came on (lead acid) with a red led (bulk charge) on the converter. Having watched a few videos, I shut off ac power and waited for the blue led (lithium) to come on in place of the green one with the bulk charge led. I left the camper for a bit and monitored 33-35 amps being sent, and the voltage climbing.

Awhile later I looked at the Victron app, and noticed the amperage was nil, and the battery voltage was 13.6 on average. Meaning lead acid trickle charge. Don’t get me wrong, this charged faster than most, it just stopped short of full capacity or 14.4-14.6. I went back out there and the green LED was lit, with no red led meaning it was in the float or holding pattern at lead acid voltage. I may have some of the terminology wrong.

The jumper they are sending will make it charge on a different trajectory and shoot for 14.4-14.6 for full.

Hope this helps

[F350guy]

I'm sure Craig will respond and he is very knowledgeable on this subject. He helped me a lot during my recent change from lead acid to lithium.

My knowledge is limited but the book that came with my Renogy 200ah battery says a full charge is 13.6 volts. Renogy recommends a 2 stage charger with 14.4 volts boost and 13.6 maintenance or whatever you call it. I've got a PowerMax 55LKL charger/converter and that it is how it is set up in the lithium mode.

[craigav]

Thanks Jim for the good words. I didn't realize that the Wfco-8735-ad had mode lights to tell which mode it is in but that makes sense and in part of my earlier question to Ryan regarding how he was able to determine it wasn't in the Li mode.

I was only curious though as I don't have a WFCO -AD but over the years I have read from many that did have one and had similar issues where it wasn't auto-detecting correctly and I have seen questions from some asking how they could determine if theirs was auto-detecting correctly. I generally shy away from questions that I am not confident of the answer but in some cases there is more than one answer such as in this case, if there was no mode indicator lights, monitoring the voltages would also indicate what mode the converter was in, but not as easy or quick of a check than the indicator light.

On a related note and more for Jim's comment. While it is true that many charts and battery mfgr's will state that 13.6v is a full charge for a LifePo4, voltages really aren't a very accurate way to determine the state of charge so having a shunt based monitor is of a great value as you have on yours. I have a testing tool (which works on all batteries in the 12v range) and have determined if you take even a new LifePo4 and fully charge it to 100% and then let it rest on a shelf for example then after a few hours (6~12) it will read right around 13.6v however if you let it sit for a day or more the voltage will settle down to between 13.3~13.4 volts and if tested they will test out to still being fully charged. I suppose my point is that a LifePo4 could be anywhere between 13.3~13.6v and at 100% charged depending on how long they have been resting (if any at all)... and that gets back to why your shunt based monitor is a much better way to determine the state of charge than simply checking the voltages, and while it will show you the voltage, the way it determines the state of charge is via the shunt itself (instead of the voltage) monitoring how much current has entered or exited the battery (which is also how my tester works). ~CA

[Ryan31b]

Hi all,
Just an update on the WFCO converter… they shipped a 6 pin header (that must be what they tune with before leaving the factory) where pin 1 and 2 are jumpered. It’s in lithium-only mode. Now to build a battery bank.

I think I’ve attached the work instructions they sent me in case anyone needed to take a look.

Safe travels all!

[colby]

That's great news! Good luck with the rest

[JKyle]

Nice that you’ve got it all set up correctly, now.

[skids]

Originally Posted by Ryan31b

Hi all,
Just an update on the WFCO converter… they shipped a 6 pin header (that must be what they tune with before leaving the factory) where pin 1 and 2 are jumpered. It’s in lithium-only mode. Now to build a battery bank.

I think I’ve attached the work instructions they sent me in case anyone needed to take a look.

Safe travels all!

It's too bad that auto-detect didn't work and you had to do all of that detective work to figure out that it was not working as advertised. Bending parts of the electrical board would make me nervous.