Winterizing...can't find hot water bypass valve

[LauraJ]

We are winterizing our new (to us) 2006 Jayco Jay. For the life of me, I can't figure out how to bypass the hot water tank so as not to fill it with antifreeze. Can anyone see, in these photos, if there is indeed a bypass valve? The lines leave the tank and run under the sink/fridge and pop out on the other side. That's where all the valves and junctions are.

I'm also confused as to where the low point drain valves actually drain.

Your help is so appreciated. I'm lost and it's not getting any warmer.

[RogerR]

From the picture the two T handles that go straight down through the floor are probably the low point drains.



As to which are the bypass valves I am a little uncertain, could you take off the panel(s) and trace the pipes. Odds are the bypass is part of the second picture.

[LauraJ]

I do wish I could. The lines run under the fridge. All indications are that all the valves and connections are indeed in the second photo. Thanks for your help!

[Grumpy]

Based on what I see your water heater does not have bypass valves as they would be directly on the back of the water heater. You will probably need to add those yourself as normally pop-ups did not come with them from the factory.

Here's one on AMAZON

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-35953-S...84307265&psc=1

[ALJO]

Check the lines from the water heater to the pump pressure side - if it has one valve then move it to bypass position. If it has a valve on Hot and cold line close them and open the valve which goes across the two of them. I see the pump suction is already closed.
I have also see Jayco's (and more RV makes) where you have to remove the water heater lines and put a pre- made piece PEX between them. If there are no valves that will be the solution or plumb it proper with valves.

[LauraJ]

So, just to be clear, adding antifreeze would be a huge mistake without that bypass, right?

[LauraJ]

Thank you, Grumpy! I may be clueless but I think I can figure this out.

[JFlightRisk]

Originally Posted by LauraJ

So, just to be clear, adding antifreeze would be a huge mistake without that bypass, right?

That's correct. You don't want to put antifreeze in your water heater. It probably holds 6 gallons of water. I too have seen a friends trailer (a different brand) that I helped make up a Pex hose to connect the ends at the water heater. A regular commercial bypass kit would be a good addition, and would solve the issue going forward.

[Screwby]

If you needed a quick solution to get it winterized now you can buy plugs that thread into the connections where the lines go into the water heater. It’s a standard size that any hardware store should carry. I had to do this when my bypass valve on a camper failed (control center in a wet bay) and it wouldn’t stop sending antifreeze to the heater. So I just capped off the lines where they went into the heater and fixed it the next season when it was warmer and I had more time to get parts.

[Cavie]

Originally Posted by RogerR

From the picture the two T handles that go straight down through the floor are probably the low point drains.



As to which are the bypass valves I am a little uncertain, could you take off the panel(s) and trace the pipes. Odds are the bypass is part of the second picture.

Thoses are both cold water. They appear to be hooked to the in and out of the pump.

[Riich]

You have a lot of room behind that water heater, it would be very easy and quick to cut in your own heater bypass system. I'd be doing it.

[Cavie]

All you need is 1 valve on the bottom and 1 check valve on the top. I have two trailers this way from the factory.

[Riich]

Originally Posted by Cavie

All you need is 1 valve on the bottom and 1 check valve on the top. I have two trailers this way from the factory.

How would you blow them out then?

I say three valves. A crossover valve between the two lines and a valve in each line on the water heater side of the crossover valve.

Unless you want to do a three-way valve setup. You can find these diagrams anywhere.

[Cavie]

Originally Posted by Riich

How would you blow them out then?

I say three valves. A crossover valve between the two lines and a valve in each line on the water heater side of the crossover valve.

Unless you want to do a three-way valve setup. You can find these diagrams anywhere.

It's not for blowing out. It is for draining and bypassing the WH. RV's come with three different types of systems . All work. 1, 2, or three valves. Do a youtube search. Besides, I do not blow out. Many do not. Just pump in 2 gal of antifreeze and your done. Blowing can leave water in the system. The air can blow across the water in a low lying place in the piping. You need to also install low point drain valves.

[Racinforthefinish]

I can't tell by your picture but I will add this. On mine I saw a water line running alongside the hot water heater. I finally gave up looking and pulled on that line a bit, there was a cutoff valve imbedded in that styrofoam type covering. The brilliant tech had it imbedded and hidden instead of putting it on the correct side. I'm sure it wasn't intentional but the miles of going down the road had imbedded it.

[Riich]

Originally Posted by Cavie

All you need is 1 valve on the bottom and 1 check valve on the top.

Originally Posted by Cavie

It's not for blowing out. Blowing can leave water in the system. The air can blow across the water in a low lying place in the piping

It's more than just one valve at the bottom and a check valve on top. You would need a 3-way valve and have a crossover (bypass) pipe in addition to the check valve. Assuming the check valve never leaks it is a nice simple system.

Whether blowing out or adding RV antifreeze, the plumbing is the same. I have never added RV antifreeze, blowing out the lines has worked on all 4 of the RV's I have had over the years. I do add it to the drains. It all comes down to personal preference. Both work. I always recommend to use what you are comfortable with.

[Cavie]

Originally Posted by Riich

It's more than just one valve at the bottom and a check valve on top. You would need a 3-way valve and have a crossover (bypass) pipe in addition to the check valve. Assuming the check valve never leaks it is a nice simple system.

Whether blowing out or adding RV antifreeze, the plumbing is the same. I have never added RV antifreeze, blowing out the lines has worked on all 4 of the RV's I have had over the years. I do add it to the drains. It all comes down to personal preference. Both work. I always recommend to use what you are comfortable with.

Sorry, I have a trailer and a 5th wheel. Both have only one valve. Both are at the bottom of the WH. Check valve it the top. There are 3 types of systems 1 valve, 2 valves and 3 valves as you have. You tube is your friend. Here is a 2 valve.

[Riich]

We both agree. You have one valve. It's a 3-way valve. And a crossover pipe. And a check valve.

I like that design.

[CamperStu]

i would put a bypass in OR you can put the antifreeze in your lines and drain your system along with your hot water tank.. i do this every year ..plus i leave all valves/taps open, some people even blow the lines with compressed air..

[Blunderbuss]

I've seen everyone address the bypass but no one address emptying the hot water tank itself. There is usually a large nylon plug on the hot water tank accessed from the outside of the camper. Remove that plug to drain the tank. With the tank plug removed, and before I set the bypass valve, I connect the garden hose to the camper and run a good deal of fresh water through the hot water tank. This will generally flush out any sediment that has settled in the tank. Now set the bypass, let the tank drain, and reinsert the plug. A little Teflon tape on the threads is helpful for a good seal.