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Old 07-25-2012, 11:07 AM   #11
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Bob and others: I installed two Interstate batteries, too, but spent some time looking for a single battery case. I found (and ordered) a battery case specifically for golf cart batteries from here -- http://http://www.allbatterysalesand...fm/4,576.html.

After receiving the battery case, I discovered that the battery case was about 3/8" too wide () to fit between the angle iron brackets for the battery bank. To resolve this problem, I took my trailer to a truck repair shop and had a welder cut-off one of the angle iron brackets and re-weld into place to accommodate for the wider footprint of the new battery case. Since the angle iron was only slightly moved, the distance is such that it still can hold a group 27 type 12V battery. See the attached pics (note: since taking the pics, I have upgraded to 4 AWG wiring; the pics show 8AWG wiring; also, I insert a piece of plywood between the two batteries to ensure that they do not move inside the battery case). I have not, however, securely attached the battery case to the A-frame with U-bolts; instead, have relied on the weight of the two batteries and battery straps to keep in place. I realize that it would be best to do so, but I have not had any problems with this configuration after traveling well over 8000 miles over the past three years.

Before going on a trip, I place the battery case on the A-frame. I then take nylon rope (rated for 120-150lbs); insert the rope through the inlets/brackets on top of the interstate batteries and carefully lift and place inside the battery case (note: I called Interstate Batteries to confirm that the inlets/brackets can be used to lift the batteries as opposed to just using them for tying-down the batteries); insert plywood between the batteries as a spacer; attach wiring to batteries; and finally, securely attach the cover to the case. If I'm transporting my TT to storage or to a repair shop (which is not too often !), I just attach the good 'ole group 27 12V battery. When not traveling, I keep all my batteries charged using a BatteryMINDer Battery Charger / Maintainer with Desulphator - 12 Volt 2/4/8 Amp, Model# 12248.

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Old 07-25-2012, 01:34 PM   #12
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Great job - some of those photos look familar haha...

I would have looked into installing the batteries in a 48-inch diamond plate side mount tool box. With the security for batteies getting so bad I am almost afraid to go anywhere anymore... The diamond plate box just weighs around 30-40lb and is lockable and of course looks great between the propane tanks and the trailer front wall...

My next upgrade will include the diamond plate tool boxes... This is a perfect fit for 4ea COSTCO/SAMs CLUB 6v Batteries. The LIP area you see under the front of the tool box is where the Battery fume vents are located.


Photo from gilldawg79 RV.net
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Old 07-25-2012, 01:55 PM   #13
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We have been camping off the power grid for a three or more years and we use around 250AH in a one day/night camping event. We actually do just about what we normally do at regular electric camp sites except no air conditioners.

Being able to re-charge the batteries by connecting the shore power cable directly to the 2KW generator using a RV30A-15A adapter allows us to re-charge the batteries in as little as 2-3 hours generator run time. We try to do this every morning during the breakfast run. Once our batteries are back up to their 90% charge state then we can do this all over again..

I have a DC Battery monitor system inside my POPUP that I watch pretty close reading the DC VOLTS on my two Battery Banks as well as the total current being drawn by the 12VDC Power Distribution Center. The next morning I am usually down to the 12.1VDC to 11.9VDC which is pretty close to the 50% charge state of the batteries.

Works great for us camping off the power grid.

Like in this photo at Wichita Mtns Wild Life Refuge near Medicine Park OKLA, its kinda fun to run 120VAC extension cords to whatever you want to run at the camp site off the power grid.
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I claim Horse Creek Country in Southern Ill - Momabear is from North Texas
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RETIRED DOD DOAF DON CONTRACTOR Electronics Tech 42YRS

"We're burning daylight" - John Wayne
2008 STARCRAFT 14RT OFF-ROAD POPUP with PD9260C and three 85AH 12VDC batteries
2010 F150 FX4 5.4 GAS with 3.73 gears - Super Cab - Towing Package - 2KW Honda EU2000i Gen
K9PHT (since 1957) 146.52Mhz
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Old 07-25-2012, 02:01 PM   #14
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Roy -- I'm with you; one of my next projects will be the diamond plate tool box. Shortly after I got my trailer, I replaced the group 27 battery with two (2) GC batteries and the GC battery case was a quick and simple way to begin my travels and protect the batteries. I do, however, worry about the theft issue, so the diamond plate tool box mod will help resolve that issue. I have seen that mod on rv.net and I have it bookmarked for future reference (the one I saw used sink strainers as a way to vent the batteries; gotta love that kind of thinking!). Thanks for the post. Greg.
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Old 07-25-2012, 08:32 PM   #15
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WIBadger - Yes that is the one... The last guy I worked with doing almost the same mod used regular round vents instaed of the sink strainers.. They were also available from LOWES right next to the sink strainers. I liked the sink strainer idea also - pretty neat...

I have been accumulating parts for my next battery box and just about ready to start changing over to the lock box. Mine will look a tad different but has has the same idea in place. My tool box came from Northern Tools... I'm still thinking about how to come into the bottom of the DiamondPlate box. Probably will use large rubber grommets. I also changed ideas on the U-shaped anchors. Mine are going to be inside the box in the floor and drill straight into the trailer frame. I plan to use a Carriage BOLT head under the frame and have my nut and washer up inside the lock box. Just another effort to keep someone from using a dremal tool to easily cut the box loose.

I also have a very neat idea of going thru the front wall of the trailer into the storgae bay using PVC electrical junction boxes lined up on both sides of the wall and then drill out a one inch or larger hole through the middle of these two electrical boxes. This will make a very weather tight pass-thru access port. If there is a couple of inches of the wall then I will glue in a solid PVC conduit piece and trim flush on both sides.

Ive done this already going through the floor of my OFF-ROAD POPUP hiding all the 12VDC 2-conductor cable pairs that are under the floor in PVC Conduit. Works out great and is weather tight, water tight, and bug tight.

I'm getting carried away here sorry....hehe
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Roy and Carolyn
I claim Horse Creek Country in Southern Ill - Momabear is from North Texas
We live in King George VA
RETIRED DOD DOAF DON CONTRACTOR Electronics Tech 42YRS

"We're burning daylight" - John Wayne
2008 STARCRAFT 14RT OFF-ROAD POPUP with PD9260C and three 85AH 12VDC batteries
2010 F150 FX4 5.4 GAS with 3.73 gears - Super Cab - Towing Package - 2KW Honda EU2000i Gen
K9PHT (since 1957) 146.52Mhz
"We always have a PLAN B"
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Old 10-08-2012, 12:40 PM   #16
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I really like the battery mod options of adding the 6v golf cart batteries and secure storage that the diamond plated box provide. I am still new to travel trailers and can't help but wondering how the added weight on the front of the trailer effects tongue weight and weight distribution hitch configuration.
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Old 10-08-2012, 01:34 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airborne152 View Post
snip.....can't help but wondering how the added weight on the front of the trailer effects tongue weight and weight distribution hitch configuration.
It's definitely a factor to consider, and depending on the TV/TT combination in question the effect can very. I have a Sherline travel trailer tongue scale, and visit the CAT scale when I incorporate any MODS that may effect weight to confirm if any WDH adjustment is in order.

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Old 07-20-2014, 05:19 PM   #18
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Checked the 6v's I have installed in my houseboat. They are basically the same demenisions as a 12v 27 except they are taller [10" to the top of the case plus the terminals]. I like the idea of the 48" tool box but not sure I have the budget after purchasing 2 batteries. Does anyone make a traditional single plastic battery box for the taller 6V's?

I hear the concern about battery thefts, but I've never had a problem. My TT is stored in my back yard in a very private and rural setting.
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Old 07-20-2014, 05:32 PM   #19
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Just a side note - I'm planning this mod soon and have been doing substantial amounts of online research into batteries. I've been searching and reading most about the Trojan batteries... Now EVERY website I pull up is filled with condom advertisements!
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Old 07-20-2014, 06:15 PM   #20
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Hmhhh? Will a 6volt fit?
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