Unless they changed the bumper size from the 2015 model, the rhinoflex should fit, I've carried ours there since I figured out I had to line both sets of ears on the hose with the bumper corners.
At first I thought it didn't fit either.
On mine, it would fit except it only goes as far as the bracket, where they welded through when they put the bracket on so there's a glob of metal in the way. Tried from both ends, after 18 inches or so it hits that obstruction and stops. If I could get a dremel in there and clean it up, then I could fit the hose in.
Shower drain updates:
This unit (2016) utilizes a Hepvo Sanitary waste valve in lieu of a p-trap. Its basically a one way silicone flap bi-valve that prevents grey tank gasses from coming back up the drain line. Clever little bit, saves the space required for a p-trap and the corresponding water filled airlock to do the same job. The problem with my setup is that it is installed with overly tight tolerances, and any (and I mean any) flexing of the drain line results in the downstream ABS threaded collar that the Hepvo screws into to pop off the drain line. This is a collar similar to what you'd see on a p-trap, but in this case, the black ABS threaded collar actually pops off its holding flange letting the contents of your shower drain all over the floor of your TT. The right side of the Hepvo valve as pictured will take the abs fitting with it if the union is flexed - in fact, the simple torque of trying to reinstall the valve was enough a few times to cause this to happen. I have zero trust in this system. The attached video show the flex of the bottom of the shower unit with a 70 lb child in it...now imagine a full sized adult in there. Its enough flex to cause the drain system to part (at least in mine). The next step is to brace the underside of the shower with as many 2x4 supports as I can fit in there and still leave room for the ducting going to the bathroom. Additionally, the connectors for the hot/cold water to the shower faucet were barely tight - I got a full half turn out of each one, surprised those weren't leaking either.
Got the Rhino flex tube to fit in the bumper tube afterall - one side had burn through weld at the frame bracket preventing it from fitting. The other side had a huge glob of silicone about 12" in (why? who knows why that was there). After shaving off the silicone, it fit, snug, but fit. Grinding off the weld will be a PITA, so its gonna stay. The tube slides in/out from the dump side anyway. Thanks for the heads up on looking for interior defects.
The maiden voyage (for me) of my 2015 X213 was a success. No leaks. Heat Works, AC Works, Fridge keeps the beer cold and the freezer makes ice cubes. Flushing the tanks was a breeze, although I think I may add one of those tank cleaners on the outside just to make it go faster.
Tows pretty nice behind my F-150 (5.0L V8) with the towing rig the dealer gave me. Doesn't even lower the bumper. You know it's there on the hills on the highway but it's nothing the truck can't handle.
Squeaky bathroom door hinge (Silicone lube?)
Awning makes interesting sounds in the breeze.
Speakers sound like they are wired out-of-phase.
Modded the curtain on the bunks and my daughter accidentally sat on the curtain and broke the wire. That's been fixed with a better solution.
I did my solar install and will post again once I have it written up. Works great, currently gets the battery up to full charge within a couple hours after the nightly use. No Leaks and the only new holes in the roof are from mounting the panels. Found a "sneaky" way into the front compartment without going through the roof or making any new holes in anything.
I posted this in another thread, but figured I would put it here as it seems like this is a pretty active one.
My wife and I are ready to take the plunge into RV ownership and have narrowed down our search to the X213. I like the shorter tow length but the rear slide makes for a bigger effective length and it is on the relatively light side.
I am willing to wait to make sure that we are getting a fair price. Most of the 2016 units we have found online are in the $25k range. I am quite confident that we should be able to get a significant amount lower than that. Is there anyone out there that has recently purchased one that could give me an idea of what you purchased it for? I live in AZ and am willing to drive up to around 400 miles to purchase an already manufactured unit. I have gotten a quote to have one built and pick up in Indiana for $17.8K but would prefer to not have to drive the 1400 miles to pick it up. The quote was for a relatively basic trailer. Cusotmer preferred package (which i would imagine is the basic package), 15k BTU AC, 27"LED TV and electronic stability control. I believe it said the MSRP would be $26k. If we can't get it for a price we feel is appropriate we may wait until next spring to order one from the factory and pick it up in Indiana.
Even if you don't have an X213, does anybody have any advice they could give me on purchasing strategies. I am more than willing to do some heavy negotiations with dealers.
Also, has anybody rented a truck to tow a newly puchased trailer home to avoid the excessive miles on their TV and have the opportunity to fly there? If so, any advice on a company to rent a one way truck capable of towing from?
Here's out bunk curtain mod. My wife cut the curtain where it made sense and hemmed in a new path to hang the bottom one. We added some 3/16 coated cable stretched between two eye hooks. My kids like having their own space and not disturbing each other if the need to get up. This was the smallest coated cable they had in the department. It was around $0.35 a foot along with the crimp on 3/32 ferrules which were around $1.35. If I did it again I would omit the the stops on an install like this as they just do what they were meant to do, which is and get int he way.