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Old 08-07-2016, 01:19 PM   #61
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I did not see the chosen pic. I may not have privileges yet. Sorry.
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Old 08-17-2016, 01:12 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by schrederman View Post
Run the air for a few minutes and insulate the cold one...
Excellent idea. I will do this over the weekend as I get the rig ready to roll for our trip next week.
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Old 08-24-2016, 01:06 PM   #63
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snip...

I've also noticed that there is some leakage between the ducts and the ceiling around then vents. In other words, leaking back into the ceiling. So I used aluminum tape to seal up the area between the duck and the ceiling. The vents themselves have a round plastic piece that extends upward and is supposed to seal all that up. They do not seal completely and appear to block some of the airflow too (since some of mine were nearly touching the top of the duct). Two of my ducts had very little air flow coming out (with one of them being in the bedroom ). I snapped the round piece off of the vents and reinstalled them. I can definitely feel an increase in airflow from those two vents now.

...snip
How exactly did you seal the vent holes in the ceiling to the vent holes cut in the duct? I looked at mine yesterday and found some of the same issues you have (not a great seal, and the "sleeve" sticks up into the duct blocking flow), but I'm not quite sure how to solve them yet. I was thinking of removing the cylindrical sleeve and just running foil tape from the ceiling into the hole in the duct. That would seal off the attic space completely. But I'm afraid there won't be enough ceiling to get the tape good adhesion. And there would be nothing behind the tape to support it. There is no insulation around the vent holes. I guess I could put something there? And I guess my adhesion fears would be mitigated when I screw the vent "fascia" back up?

I also have a problem with my last frontward duct opening, in the "master" bedroom. My unit was originally equipped with "2nd AC Prep", so that duct goes on after that last opening in the bedroom. I assume this is to allow the second unit to be ducted into the existing duct work. I would like to temporarily close that off, but I don't quite know how. I was thinking I could tape a piece of cardboard up to block it off? Whatever I do, I want it to be easily removed as I am seriously considering putting in a second unit next year.

All this, and I haven't even approached insulating the outside of the unit ... yet. I have all the stuff to do it, and I'm hoping to get to it tonight, but so far it's not looking like I'll get to it. I also need to wash the coils up top, and wash the roof and inspect my seals. I've got A LOT of work to do!
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Old 08-24-2016, 02:44 PM   #64
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Yes, I'd say you summed it up perfectly.
That actually is a pretty good upgrade. A/C giving you that much more of a difference in temperature (5-6 degrees) provides quite a bit more cooling. You probably gained the most by sealing the ductwork.

For a home (window) unit you would need to go to a much larger unit
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Old 08-25-2016, 08:01 AM   #65
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How exactly did you seal the vent holes in the ceiling to the vent holes cut in the duct? I looked at mine yesterday and found some of the same issues you have (not a great seal, and the "sleeve" sticks up into the duct blocking flow), but I'm not quite sure how to solve them yet. I was thinking of removing the cylindrical sleeve and just running foil tape from the ceiling into the hole in the duct. That would seal off the attic space completely. But I'm afraid there won't be enough ceiling to get the tape good adhesion. And there would be nothing behind the tape to support it. There is no insulation around the vent holes. I guess I could put something there? And I guess my adhesion fears would be mitigated when I screw the vent "fascia" back up?

I also have a problem with my last frontward duct opening, in the "master" bedroom. My unit was originally equipped with "2nd AC Prep", so that duct goes on after that last opening in the bedroom. I assume this is to allow the second unit to be ducted into the existing duct work. I would like to temporarily close that off, but I don't quite know how. I was thinking I could tape a piece of cardboard up to block it off? Whatever I do, I want it to be easily removed as I am seriously considering putting in a second unit next year.

All this, and I haven't even approached insulating the outside of the unit ... yet. I have all the stuff to do it, and I'm hoping to get to it tonight, but so far it's not looking like I'll get to it. I also need to wash the coils up top, and wash the roof and inspect my seals. I've got A LOT of work to do!
So last night I gave it a go, and it worked out just fine. I just tore off a bunch of 3" strips of foil tape and ran it from the inside of the duct opening to the outside of the ceiling opening. I stuck the tape to the ceiling such that it did not protrude from the trim of the vent and is thus hidden.

Result was great. Those sleeves were sticking up about 1/2" into the duct work, and now without them, the air flow is much smoother and higher in perceived volume (?).

I was only able to seal off 2 of my 4 vents last night. If I don't get to finish the other two tonight, I'll get to them this weekend.

Now all that's left is to seal off the "dead end" past the master vent, and get up on the roof to clean the coils and insulate the box.

Then I'll be confident I've done just about everything I can do to help my current system along, and it's on to insulating the other areas of the trailer...
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Old 08-26-2016, 10:24 AM   #66
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100 Degree Weather

We are getting the first real test of our newly insulated A/C unit. I can only report on comfort level because the reading on the thermostat continues to be completely useless. This is day four down here and temps have reached as high as 100 degrees and we are in full sun. The A/C has functioned well with no evidence of freezing up. I have also noticed a distinct lack of condensation on the interior cowl which was previously an issue for us. The temperatures inside have been consistently cool. The thermostat has read as high as 85 but my bride and I agree that the true temperatures have been in the mid 70's... I am currently feeling very cool in shorts and a t-shirt and it is just past noon.

We did discover that using the direct flow vents instead of the ceiling conduit was far more efficient and actually kept the entire RV much cooler. With the direct flow vents open my plan is to try it out with only the ceiling vents over the bunk and the master bed open tonight and see if that keeps us all comfortable.
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Old 08-26-2016, 03:35 PM   #67
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That's exactly what I did Bob. Just used 3" foil tape to seal up between the ceiling and the duct. I cut slits in the tape every inch or so I could fold it down onto the duct and ceiling without it pulling up. Like you said, without the rings attached, there was a noticeable increase in airflow out of the vents afterwards. One thing I don't like is you can see the foil if you look up into the ceiling vents now. Nobody else notices it, but I do. I will probably go back and paint the foil off white at some point.

For what its worth, in the daytime, I leave the ducted ceiling vents and the direct flow vents open. And, I also close the bedroom doors. At night, I close off all of the ducted ceiling vents except for the one in the bedroom. That seems to work for best for us.
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Old 08-26-2016, 07:39 PM   #68
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I can only imagine how much better things would work if everyone sprayed out the condenser coil!!!!! The one on the outside.
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Old 08-27-2016, 10:35 AM   #69
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Just did the Reflectix wrap on the cold air boxes on both of my AC units on the Seneca. Remains to be seen how that works out. Also wrapped the suction lines on both. We're headed toward 110-112 degree humid heat for a few days soon, and I wanted to be prepared. The remainder of the Reflectix roll I bought at Lowe's I used to make window covers for the windows that weren't already sized up for it. We'll need to cover all the windows in that sort of heat. Used that method in my old toy hauler, and it worked well. That unit didn't have as good an insulation as the Seneca either. Aluminum siding, loosely hung fiberglass insulation and wood studs in the walls was the standard construction in that thing. Held up well, but I'm sure the AC was working overtime to keep up.
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Old 08-29-2016, 08:51 AM   #70
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I can only imagine how much better things would work if everyone sprayed out the condenser coil!!!!! The one on the outside.
Doing it tonight if it's not raining. Some time this week for sure.
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