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09-18-2014, 05:49 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Flushing
Posts: 21
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Manual Overide for Slideout
I just purchased a 2015 Whitehawk and was wondering where the manual override is for the slideout, looked all over and did not see anything, this is the one thing in my walk through they did not mention. In my manual they show two different slideouts, not sure which one this is.
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09-18-2014, 06:01 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: New York
Posts: 2,210
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Simple identifying marker for you is the "s" aluminum tracks on the upper and lower sides of a schwintek slide. If you have one of these slides there is a controller with a manual override. It's a black box with a white sticker on it and LED lights in a recessed window. There is a code chart on the sticker that tells you what is wrong by the flashing lights. If you are in a bind and the slide won't retract you push the button 6 times and hold on the 7th. Then you can retract the slide with the wall switch. This overrides the counting of the rotation of the motors upon closing.
If you have a large living area slide those are most likely going to be underneath the unit and a socket is the only way you can retract them manually. It will under most cases require you dropping the underbelly material in that location where the motors are located.
__________________
2014 375 BHFS Eagle Premier
2014 Ram 3500 Longhorn DRW CC
6.7 CTD, Aisin, 4.10's
Yamaha EF3000iSEB
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09-18-2014, 06:14 PM
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#3
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Flushing
Posts: 21
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Thank you, I don't think it is the Shwintek slide, you are probably right that it is hidden under the Enclosed Underbelly, thanks again for the reply..
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09-18-2014, 06:33 PM
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#4
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Michigan
Posts: 9,424
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3'senough
snip..... It will under most cases require you dropping the underbelly material in that location where the motors are located.
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Hopefully in these cases Jayco still has the slide motor access underbelly panel pre-cut (my 2005 was).
Here is a pic of my Jayco pre-cut underbelly panel removed exposing my slide motor...., you can see the extended hex shaft where a socket can be attached to move the slide manually (turn all power to slide OFF first).
Bob
__________________
2016 GM 2500HD 6.0L/4.10
2018 Jay Flight 24RBS
2002 GM 2500HD 6.0L/4:10 (retired)
2005 Jayco Eagle 278FBS (retired)
1999 Jayco Eagle 246FB (retired)
Reese HP Dual Cam (Strait-Line)
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09-18-2014, 06:52 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Southern Indiana
Posts: 3,209
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rustic Eagle
Hopefully in these cases Jayco still has the slide motor access underbelly panel pre-cut (my 2005 was).
Bob
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My 2012 has a fully enclosed underbelly and has the pre-cut access panels. About 8 screws each. Take a look underneath, you'll probably find them.
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2012 Eagle 320 RLDS
2017 Ford F-250 FX4 Crew STX 6.2l
3.73 E-locker
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09-19-2014, 07:00 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: New York
Posts: 2,210
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rustic Eagle
Hopefully in these cases Jayco still has the slide motor access underbelly panel pre-cut (my 2005 was).
Here is a pic of my Jayco pre-cut underbelly panel removed exposing my slide motor...., you can see the extended hex shaft where a socket can be attached to move the slide manually (turn all power to slide OFF first).
Bob
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There is a panel under mine, but it does not line up right IMHO for the slide motor. I think it's luck of draw on these lately and not all models have an access panel. Hopefully I am wrong as I have yet to confirm if that is my access since it is sealed up nicely. If and when something does occur you can bet that I will install an access panel if that is not it.
I only have one of the rail type slides on my large LR slide. All the others are Scwintek which has me concerned. My goal is to understand these systems and everything that can or will go wrong and how to replace parts. The motors are easy to get to to under most cases except when open fully then you need to go at them from the outside which is much harder. When my one side moter went I had to push the dead side in while DW retracted the working motor. The manual feature failed due to a wire pulling out the motor entirely. On the plus side the "brains" gave me the right code to diagnois the problem which said a wire was disconnected as it was.
__________________
2014 375 BHFS Eagle Premier
2014 Ram 3500 Longhorn DRW CC
6.7 CTD, Aisin, 4.10's
Yamaha EF3000iSEB
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09-19-2014, 07:48 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Kamloops
Posts: 405
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I have 2010 Eagle
No manual Just push the slide in
And hope you have FOUR BIG STRONG MEN WITH YOU
BECAUSE IT IS A BIG SLIDE
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09-19-2014, 12:24 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Pahrump
Posts: 4,038
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Quote:
Originally Posted by annie oakly
I have 2010 Eagle
No manual Just push the slide in
And hope you have FOUR BIG STRONG MEN WITH YOU
BECAUSE IT IS A BIG SLIDE
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Does anyone know if that can be done in place of crawling underneath to close the slide in case of failure without cause more damage?
__________________
'11 Eagle 320RLDS
'02 F350 PSD Dually 4WD
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'14 Denali XL
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09-19-2014, 12:29 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: New York
Posts: 2,210
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cekkk
Does anyone know if that can be done in place of crawling underneath to close the slide in case of failure without cause more damage?
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I think it is case specific. i.e. if you gear box is busted there is no way manually it's going to come in so you would have ot push it. If the motor only gives and the gear box is good then you could further break parts IMHO.
__________________
2014 375 BHFS Eagle Premier
2014 Ram 3500 Longhorn DRW CC
6.7 CTD, Aisin, 4.10's
Yamaha EF3000iSEB
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09-19-2014, 07:19 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Kamloops
Posts: 405
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I was told by the dealer, unhook the motor, and push.
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09-20-2014, 07:05 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Missoula, Montana
Posts: 704
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3'senough
Hopefully I am wrong as I have yet to confirm if that is my access since it is sealed up nicely. If and when something does occur you can bet that I will install an access panel if that is not it.
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But what I'm concerned with, as mine also has no access panel, is where to start cutting/loosening the underbelly material. I'm betting it'll be raining or snowing when needing done. Can one assume its dead center of the slide?
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09-20-2014, 07:31 AM
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#12
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Site Team
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: James Island, SC
Posts: 22,859
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Be careful when pushing the slide. Once I had a problem with a stripped gear box. 3 strong men came over and "helped" me push the slide in. In the process they bent some outside panels. Lots of places are not strong enough for side pressure.
If you don't have access panels, I would talk with the manaf. or others owners that you see about how and where to get to it. There is nothing more frustrating than having a slide problem and not knowing where to start.
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Moderator
2011- 351RLTS Eagle, MorRyde suspension/pin box,
2017- F350 6.7 PSD Lariat FX4,SRW, SB,CC
Hughes PWD SP-50A, TST TPMS
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Can't find what you're looking on JOF? Try Jayco Owners Forum Custom Google Search
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09-20-2014, 07:38 AM
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#13
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Site Team
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: James Island, SC
Posts: 22,859
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cosmik Debris
But what I'm concerned with, as mine also has no access panel, is where to start cutting/loosening the underbelly material. I'm betting it'll be raining or snowing when needing done. Can one assume its dead center of the slide?
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The only thing you might assume is that it is on the side near the slide out. If you don't have any idea, I would take the lower cover loose on the edge between the middle of the slide and look up in there with a flashlight to mark the spot under the motor. Seems kinda cavalier for the maker not to provide any access.....
If you are mechanically inclined they are easy to work on and trouble shoot. You do need to be able to see the motor.
I have fixed several problems that were just loose nuts on a bolt.
I always carry a small tarp or cardboard to lay on.
__________________
Moderator
2011- 351RLTS Eagle, MorRyde suspension/pin box,
2017- F350 6.7 PSD Lariat FX4,SRW, SB,CC
Hughes PWD SP-50A, TST TPMS
Gator roll-up bed cover
B&W Turnover ball, Companion Std hitch
Can't find what you're looking on JOF? Try Jayco Owners Forum Custom Google Search
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09-20-2014, 07:41 AM
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#14
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Site Team
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: James Island, SC
Posts: 22,859
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Quote:
Originally Posted by annie oakly
I was told by the dealer, unhook the motor, and push.
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Thats a cop out answer!
__________________
Moderator
2011- 351RLTS Eagle, MorRyde suspension/pin box,
2017- F350 6.7 PSD Lariat FX4,SRW, SB,CC
Hughes PWD SP-50A, TST TPMS
Gator roll-up bed cover
B&W Turnover ball, Companion Std hitch
Can't find what you're looking on JOF? Try Jayco Owners Forum Custom Google Search
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09-20-2014, 09:32 AM
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#15
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Michigan
Posts: 9,424
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cosmik Debris
But what I'm concerned with, as mine also has no access panel, is where to start cutting/loosening the underbelly material.......snip
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I would first contact Jayco directly (have VIN handy), they may be able to provide a dimensional location of the slide motor from the build drawings.
I removed my slide motor access panel so the I could put a directional arrow on the motor as to which way to turn the hex shaft (to close) in the event I have to do it manually. REASON: Under manual operation the slide moves "extremely slow" and it would be very easy to unintentionally jam the drive mechanism rotating the motor drive hex shaft the wrong way (I know someone that did with a cordless drill). What I did was open the slide 1/2 way, tested the manual operation a 1/2 drive socket wrench, then marked the arrow "close" rotation accordingly.
Some slide manufactures will provide the correct motor rotational information (open/close) in the product documentation for manual operation.
Bob
__________________
2016 GM 2500HD 6.0L/4.10
2018 Jay Flight 24RBS
2002 GM 2500HD 6.0L/4:10 (retired)
2005 Jayco Eagle 278FBS (retired)
1999 Jayco Eagle 246FB (retired)
Reese HP Dual Cam (Strait-Line)
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09-20-2014, 09:37 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Kamloops
Posts: 405
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to get to my motor, It is under the couch, behind a piece of wood
I just disconnect the wires I Hope
Look under the couch, before pulling things a part.
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09-20-2014, 10:29 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: NY Southern Tier
Posts: 105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cosmik Debris
But what I'm concerned with, as mine also has no access panel, is where to start cutting/loosening the underbelly material. I'm betting it'll be raining or snowing when needing done. Can one assume its dead center of the slide?
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If you have a Schwintek slide then the motors are in the wall at the top of the slide walls. You likely have a Schwintek slide if the slide only comes out about 18 inches and not about 3 feet. If the racks are on the end walls of the slide then it is a Schwintek.
Edit: I see you have an Eagle 29.5 RKS, so it's not a Schwintek.
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2015 Chevy Silverado 2500HD LT 6.0L 4.10
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09-30-2014, 06:41 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Missoula, Montana
Posts: 704
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called Jayco
They were very helpful. My underbelly access cover is ahead of the front axle on the side opposite of the slide out. The tech said that I might want to use a drill if I ever need to manually operate the slide as it takes 100 rotations of the shaft to close.
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