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Old 02-05-2013, 09:21 PM   #11
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Yes, they do flex a lot while being towed
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Old 02-05-2013, 09:39 PM   #12
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Thank you for the info on the products
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When resealing my roof, I used Dicor self leveling lap sealant which is commonly used for this purpose on RV roofs. I applied the new sealant right over the old, wherever it appeared to need it. For sealing things like clearance lights or around storage doors or windows, I would use a product called Proflex.



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Old 02-05-2013, 09:49 PM   #13
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I've been following along.....

I consider myself a newbie at this as I bought our X23B last June.

Do you do an inspection yourself or do you have a dealer check the roof? I'm not sure I would know what I was looking for!
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Old 02-06-2013, 03:47 AM   #14
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I've been following along.....

I consider myself a newbie at this as I bought our X23B last June.

Do you do an inspection yourself or do you have a dealer check the roof? I'm not sure I would know what I was looking for!
I pay to have my TT winterized by my dealer, he also inspects the roof and then sends me a letter letting me know that everything was done and it says " roof inspected and all is ok". I keep the letter.
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Old 02-06-2013, 06:54 AM   #15
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Rick, I have had a leak issue with my 2010 5er. Causing the plywood under the vinyl to pop up like little bumps. Received the same reply from Jayco as you did. Even though, I believe the leak was caused by the factory. I think I have found where it was leaking and repaired it, but going to have my dealer look it over and see if they find anything.

I have not thought about contacting my insurance (I have State Farm also) on the issue. They seem willing to work with you on it?
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Old 02-06-2013, 08:23 AM   #16
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I doubt my insurance (State Farm) will approve the claim because I am seeing it now as a maintenance oversight not from a form of structural damage, so with rain in the forecast for tomorrow and weekend I am going to move along with resealing and repairing it myself starting today. It's the right time for taking a sick day or two my, vacation is for the campground LOL
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Rick, I have had a leak issue with my 2010 5er. Causing the plywood under the vinyl to pop up like little bumps. Received the same reply from Jayco as you did. Even though, I believe the leak was caused by the factory. I think I have found where it was leaking and repaired it, but going to have my dealer look it over and see if they find anything.

I have not thought about contacting my insurance (I have State Farm also) on the issue. They seem willing to work with you on it?
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Old 02-06-2013, 09:04 AM   #17
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I doubt my insurance (State Farm) will approve the claim because I am seeing it now as a maintenance oversight not from a form of structural damage, so with rain in the forecast for tomorrow and weekend I am going to move along with resealing and repairing it myself starting today. It's the right time for taking a sick day or two my, vacation is for the campground LOL
I called my agent and they questioned if it would be covered, but they did open a claim and will let an adjuster come out and decide for sure. Since it is at the dealer for other repairs, the dealer may be able to talk the adjuster into it
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Old 02-06-2013, 08:11 PM   #18
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ID:	6339Well, here is what I found The window was the culprit and the way it looks it was probably leaking shortly after it left the dealership new. The window was resealed and installed today of course. Progress is being made and I was able to have matching paneling ordered thru the dealership which at $60 a sheet x 2 plus shipping, Jayco is proud of it. I did find the end of the rot line on the floor plates so I have a light starting to shine in the tunnel. Does any one know if I can use regular home insulation in the walls and floor. Will keep posting as I progress
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Old 02-06-2013, 10:16 PM   #19
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I would use the pink rigid insulation. Comes in different thinknesses.
I used it in my basement. Easy to cut and work with. Mildew and water proof.
About $29 for a 4'x8" sheet, depending on thickness. You want the XPS type
I cut the 2: stuff with a fine jig saw.
The thinner stuff can be cut with a utility knife.

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...&storeId=10051

JMHO,
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Old 02-07-2013, 06:44 AM   #20
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Another problem with Jayco's windows is how Jayco installs windows. The foam gasket, while convenient for installers, does not seal well nor long. My windows were not installed in the center of the cut out hole which results in a very small part - as small as 1/8 inch or even less - of the window flange to seal against the side of the trailer. And Jayco's method to remedy their shoddy work is to tell us that the windows have to be cap sealed with caulk each and every year.

Nobody's tow vehicle comes with instructions to cap seal the windows annually.
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