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Old 06-01-2019, 02:38 PM   #41
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And this is where I get confused. why is it the outside ambient temp? My ac draws air from inside. My last camper had no problem keeping 68° temps inside no matter what the outside temp was. As long as the window coverings where down and awning was out, no direct sunlight into camper, it was good. I even had a pop up that would stay cold in 100+ temps. As far as I can see, it can cool up to 20° the air it takes in. So many camper come with all these windows in them. It's no wonder y the ac can't keep up. I love that my Talon doesn't have too many windows. as long as the door stays shut it's nice and cool. Ac cycles on and off as it should. Even if I have the garage opened up and the interior door stays closed it's cool.
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Old 06-01-2019, 03:48 PM   #42
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My Coleman dose not bring in outside air. The return air is pulled from the air inside the trailer, cooled and blown back into the trailer interior. After it is running for awhile I can measure the return air with a digital thermometer and it is in the 30’s or lower, no matter what the outside temp is. A week ago when the outside air was 100 degrees I set my thermostat for 70 degrees and after an hour my inside thermometer read 68 degrees...with the window shades open. It was actually too cold in the trailer. That’s with a single 15k AC in a 30 foot trailer....

An added note: The above was achieved after I fixed my hot/ cold air divider and sealed the duct leaks.
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Old 06-01-2019, 06:31 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by KoreanCowboy57 View Post
One thing to remember is that an A/C will generally only cool 20 degrees below ambient outside temps. If it's 100 outside, expect high 70's inside. An RV a/c isnt anywhere near as powerful or efficient as your home system. Also, the bolts do come loose from traveling, bumping, shaking, curves, etc that come with normal use and towing. You do have to check them and tighten them occassionally.
Good video and thanks for sharing!
A perfect working A/C will cool the air coming off the evaporator by 20 degrees. The room will continue to cool until the unit can no longer remove moisture. The air outside has nothing to do with what the a/c is doing inside other then trying to over come the heat that is transferring through the walls and ceiling. I live in Louisiana. Southeast of New Orleans. My trailer will get down to 66 degrees with out side temps in the high 90s.
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Old 06-03-2019, 02:53 PM   #44
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I did this also in my bedroom air but I know that I have a problem with my main central air looked in the return air ducts and find 1 piece off ceiling tile cut it and the matching piece of foam insulation that just got left there. Any idea how I can check the transfer short off removing the ac from the roof
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Old 06-03-2019, 08:41 PM   #45
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Remove the outer shroud. Remove the 5/16 screws that’s hold the sheet metal together. You will first see the return air side of the A/C. If you need to get to the plenum side you will have to continue disassembling the sheet metal and also remove the fan. It’s not that hard if you are a lil mechanically inclined. Be careful to not bend the copper tubing
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Old 06-04-2019, 06:44 AM   #46
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Thanks I was hoping to here this
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Old 06-06-2019, 08:02 AM   #47
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Quick update... Yesterday the temps here reached 102 degrees. I have a weather station inside my RV that records the highest and lowest temperatures. The inside temp remained at the set temperature all day...72 degrees! It was actually a bit cold when I entered the trailer.


I want to thank Brooksb for posting that video! It saved me from the expense and hassle of installing a second AC unit. I have shared that video with my RV friends, as well as a few other Forums, so I know it will help others with similar circumstances.


Luv this forum!
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Old 06-07-2019, 09:53 AM   #48
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Whisper Quiet should be named: You’ll wish you didn’t buy it! Our 2019 Eagle came with a Wisp O Air system in the LR and a thru the roof system in the BR. What a difference! I did all the taping but still bit the bullet and retrofitted the LR system to a combination duct and plenum system. More noise? Yes. More comfort? ABSOLUTELY!! When we get to a campsite and the trailer is 100 inside, I can open all the plenum vents and get it chilly quick!
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Old 06-07-2019, 02:40 PM   #49
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Excellent video. Thanks for sharing.
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Old 06-07-2019, 07:38 PM   #50
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Whisper Quiet should be named: You’ll wish you didn’t buy it! Our 2019 Eagle came with a Wisp O Air system in the LR and a thru the roof system in the BR. What a difference! I did all the taping but still bit the bullet and retrofitted the LR system to a combination duct and plenum system. More noise? Yes. More comfort? ABSOLUTELY!! When we get to a campsite and the trailer is 100 inside, I can open all the plenum vents and get it chilly quick!
I sort of went the same way. I added extra ducts in the plenum. One on the left side of the living room one on the right. It solves the problem of enough air not getting into the living room and it’s not quite as noisy. I’m sure it does take a little longer to cool then what you did but it works. My next step was to do what you did this did not resolve the problem
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Old 06-08-2019, 07:49 PM   #51
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Whisper Quiet should be named: You’ll wish you didn’t buy it! Our 2019 Eagle came with a Wisp O Air system in the LR and a thru the roof system in the BR. What a difference! I did all the taping but still bit the bullet and retrofitted the LR system to a combination duct and plenum system. More noise? Yes. More comfort? ABSOLUTELY!! When we get to a campsite and the trailer is 100 inside, I can open all the plenum vents and get it chilly quick!
So can you expand on what you did? We only have a single 15k whisper quiet that definitely does not keep up in our eagle 321rsts. Will adding more a/c vents from the ducts in living room help? At the expense of the front bedroom? I already taped up around each duct hole so the air goes inside and not in the attic. Wondering if the partion between intake and exhaust is maybe not sealed up. Need to take a boo from up on the roof side I am thinking

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Old 06-09-2019, 07:27 AM   #52
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So can you expand on what you did? We only have a single 15k whisper quiet that definitely does not keep up in our eagle 321rsts. Will adding more a/c vents from the ducts in living room help? At the expense of the front bedroom? I already taped up around each duct hole so the air goes inside and not in the attic. Wondering if the partion between intake and exhaust is maybe not sealed up. Need to take a boo from up on the roof side I am thinking

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Yes. To convert the LR system I ordered the Coleman plenum that they use for thru the roof systems. Part # 8430A6321. Lateral ducted chill grille. It comes with a kit for everything you need except for a roof gasket: 14” square. I replaced mine just as a precaution. It also has good instructions. I ordered mine from rv upgrades. Up on the roof I lifted the ac unit off, drilled 4 corner pilot holes thru the ceiling and then used my jig saw to cut the 14” square out from the ceiling side. The baffle was out if position (of course) so I taped it up tight. I also expanded the cold air ducting some and taped it all up tight. After installing the plenum the difference was night and day! Better warm return and amazing cold air output!
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Old 06-09-2019, 07:34 AM   #53
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So can you expand on what you did? We only have a single 15k whisper quiet that definitely does not keep up in our eagle 321rsts. Will adding more a/c vents from the ducts in living room help? At the expense of the front bedroom? I already taped up around each duct hole so the air goes inside and not in the attic. Wondering if the partion between intake and exhaust is maybe not sealed up. Need to take a boo from up on the roof side I am thinking

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PS. You may still need to add a 15k in the BR. Your Eagle is already wired for it. It will be a combination of ducting and plenum just like the LR system will be. That gives us lots of options to keep us CALM COOL and COLLECTED!!��
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Old 06-09-2019, 09:47 AM   #54
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Great thread. Plenty of excellent ideas, resources and mods here to make a huge improvement in our RV's. Thanks OP.

I had previously sealed all of the ducted ceiling vents as described in a video on this thread as well as by Magnolia Tom. When I checked out this thread I thought, boy I hope that this will further improve the AC in our camper! But as it turns out my unit had a properly sealed divider and everything was well taped in the main unit.

I guess I'm a little disappointed that my AC was installed properly??
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Old 07-12-2019, 10:45 AM   #55
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Anyone know where these intake grilles with removable filters can be purchased that Jayco is using now? I cant’t seem to find them with a search online. I have a 2016 and they used non removable filter vents like in a house that have to be screwed and caulked everytime you want to change the crappy little filter in them.

Im going to attempt to add the chille grille to the whisper quiet lousy system in bedroom and main living area both (theyre interconnected) My garage already has it. I’m just nervous about maiing sure the units seal properly to the roof when re-installed, anyone have any pointers there or a part number for a new gasket?

Thanks.
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Old 07-12-2019, 11:01 AM   #56
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Yes. To convert the LR system I ordered the Coleman plenum that they use for thru the roof systems. Part # 8430A6321. Lateral ducted chill grille. It comes with a kit for everything you need except for a roof gasket: 14” square. I replaced mine just as a precaution. It also has good instructions. I ordered mine from rv upgrades. Up on the roof I lifted the ac unit off, drilled 4 corner pilot holes thru the ceiling and then used my jig saw to cut the 14” square out from the ceiling side. The baffle was out if position (of course) so I taped it up tight. I also expanded the cold air ducting some and taped it all up tight. After installing the plenum the difference was night and day! Better warm return and amazing cold air output!


Question, would it be possible to install the Chill Grille without removing the AC from the roof? If you can manage to drill with a long bit the 4 corners of the square from above without removing it, it seems like you can just install the grill and bolts from underneath correct, or am I missing a step?
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Old 07-12-2019, 02:09 PM   #57
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I did this to mine last year. Turns out I was dumping a lot of cool air in the roof.
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Old 07-13-2019, 01:41 PM   #58
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Just checked both our AC units on a 2018 Seneca. The baffle was out of place on one, letting the cool air get sucked right back into the intake. The foil lining was jacked on both units, letting cool air escape into the space between the roof and ceiling, and the duct openings on the rear were about 50% blocked with Styrofoam.

Really poor installation for a rig that is only 18 months old.

Fixed all the issues and the AC is 100% better! Cooled the rig from 96 to 76 in about 30 minutes!

These are Coleman units.
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Old 07-13-2019, 02:17 PM   #59
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Isn't amazing what you can learn from this Forum??! I did the same after watching the video and last week when the temp hit 105 degrees the inside my RV was 76 degrees. I have never seen that before in the two years I have owned my RV. I was all set to buy a second RV...that video saved me from spending big bucks.
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Old 07-14-2019, 07:04 AM   #60
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I added two extra registers in the Living Room kitchen area. A lot easier then adding a chill grill. Drill two holes approximately 5 inches, add the tape to avoid air from getting into the ceiling, install the registers and you are done. 2 registers $6 each, good silver duct tape $15, hole saw $15. Done in 20 min
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