What Did You Do To Your RV TODAY?

[sgtkersh]

Tested my aux/satellite port at the main TV in our 2022 Jayco Eagle HT. Determined it was a straight run from the Aux port in the wet bay an now our tailgater is working fine. Our first trip out I had to run the coaxial through a window since I couldn’t get a signal from the “satellite” port in the wet bay. Instead of a splitter or switch preventing communication with the tailgater, it turns out I ran the cable from the wrong port.

That makes me happy.

[sgtkersh]

Today’s project was installing the Flag Pole Buddy mount on my ladder and elevating our Starlink dish. Pretty straight forward install and the dish is a nice height above the roofline now.

[LuckyDuck]

Successfully restrung the blinds on the large rear window. It wasn’t hard, just a little time-consuming the first time, especially getting the valance off, and then removing the blinds from the valance. Along with the United Shade First Aid kit, a really helpful tool was a set of long upholstery needles DW found at Joanne’s. The longest one threaded each string through the folded shade in seconds.

[ttavasc]

Added some radiant heat shielding to the corner of the fridge opening by the boiler tube. This was mainly to reduce the heat transfer into the living space that occurs, especially in warmer weather, when the fridge is working a little harder. The IR heat gun shows upwards of ~120-125 at the wall just under the microwave which makes it a bit harder to keep the interior cool, especially when no A/C and just using fans. This has been on the list of things to do for a while - finally got the time over the long holiday weekend to do it.

I had some scrap 2x3 laying around so I made a simple stand to slide the fridge onto - no lifting required. When I installed my ARP Fridge Defend all of the various wire connections behind the fridge got insulated crimp-style disconnects so removing the fridge is about a 15 minute job at this point.

I used two packages of Thermo-Tec 13575 Adhesive Backed Aluminized Heat Barrier which is affixed to a piece of 24 gauge aluminum sheet metal. Once in place there is 1/2" air gap between the heat shielding and the wall. The pink fiberglass insulation overlaps the radiant heat shield by 2". I fired up the fridge early this morning and so far the wall temp under the microwave is staying within ~3-4 degrees above the ambient temp in the trailer as shown by the wall thermostat.

[Semix-Hex]

Originally Posted by ttavasc

Added some radiant heat shielding to the corner of the fridge opening by the boiler tube. This was mainly to reduce the heat transfer into the living space that occurs, especially in warmer weather, when the fridge is working a little harder. The IR heat gun shows upwards of ~120-125 at the wall just under the microwave which makes it a bit harder to keep the interior cool, especially when no A/C and just using fans. This has been on the list of things to do for a while - finally got the time over the long holiday weekend to do it.

I had some scrap 2x3 laying around so I made a simple stand to slide the fridge onto - no lifting required. When I installed my ARP Fridge Defend all of the various wire connections behind the fridge got insulated crimp-style disconnects so removing the fridge is about a 15 minute job at this point.

I used two packages of Thermo-Tec 13575 Adhesive Backed Aluminized Heat Barrier which is affixed to a piece of 24 gauge aluminum sheet metal. Once in place there is 1/2" air gap between the heat shielding and the wall. The pink fiberglass insulation overlaps the radiant heat shield by 2". I fired up the fridge early this morning and so far the wall temp under the microwave is staying within ~3-4 degrees above the ambient temp in the trailer as shown by the wall thermostat.

Some nice work happening there!

[Bandit12]

Not to my RV but one of our camping accessories. My Predator generator had been showing signs of a weak battery. It was about 3 years old and had not been kept on a battery tender until this spring. So, today was generator maintenance day. Fired it up and sure enough, the battery almost wouldn't start it. Let it run for about 20 minutes to warm up, changed the oil, cleaned the spark arrestor, installed a new battery, and it's all good to go for our cross-country trip later on this month. This is the second battery I've replaced in this unit. The factory battery died the first winter. The replacement 7LBS battery from Napa lasted 3 years. I'll have to see how long this one will last, putting on a battery tender when not camping.

[SmokerBill]

Removed all the wire racks, the glass shelf, the drip tray and veggie drawer from my refrigerator and scrubbed them clean. I used a Magic Eraser to remove all the stubborn stains and scuff marks where needed.

Wiped out the interior with bleach/water mix to sanitize.

Looks like a new Norcold now!

[SmokerBill]

Scrubbed the heck out of the shower surround, tub and toilet today too. Lookin' good!

[colby]

It's been a busy few days. Pulled the trailer out of storage on Saturday and started with a full checkout and cleaning in preparation for camping this week. All systems tested and working fine, water system sanitized, washed the roof, washed and waxed the outside (thanks LuckyDuck for the reference to the Meguiar's Cleaner Wax for RVs, it worked fantastic) and of course it rained the next day, lol.

Got to the campsite yesterday, beautiful day for driving and setup went perfectly. An hour or so in, DW noticed water on the bathroom floor, a quick examination showed that the plastic elbow in the connection to the toilet was cracked (it was dry during all of the testing two days earlier). 10 minutes later a new copper elbow is in place and crisis averted. Once again, the advice from this forum enabled me to have the right tools and parts on hand to make this simple fix and look like a hero!

[Topperace]

Removed a damaged Girard awning arm - damaged after recent flash rain deluge that I didn't get to bring in fast enough....can't catch a break here of late...

[nkdenton]

Installed a MaxxAir II cover on the ceiling exhaust fan of our 2022 Jay Feather 25RB so we can run the fan when raining. (The fan has pre-fabbed mounting tabs so this wasn’t really a mod, just completing what should have already been there IMHO).

[rodpod]

I had large gaps in the lower seals underneath my main slide. Since its near the generator exhaust i was concerned with Carbon Monoxide entering the cabin. I could actually see daylight under the slide when looking inside under the couch. The slide seals are folded back and wouldn't pull forward to seal against the bottom of the slide no matter what i tried. I saw a mod on here to open the side slide seals which involved putting sweeps on the side of the slide when it is opened to fold the seals forward and seat correctly. I thought that might work on the lower seals. I installed strips of 1/2 in quarter round about 9" out from the coach wall. I tacked them on with 1 1/4 in brads. Face the rounded side of the Q round facing in, the the wide side facing out to grab the seal lip when extending the slide.This works well all of the slide edges folded out perfectly, sealing the slide tightly. Problem solved for less than $5.

[corv65]

Hope your having cool weather in Canada,extremely hot in the SW US

[corv65]

Air Tabs ? What is the function?

[PaulB12]

Originally Posted by corv65

Air Tabs ? What is the function?

Supposedly helps with aerodynamics/air flow.
PaulB12

[Topperace]

located the hydraulic pump and reservoir - fluids good, pump good...did another LCI Electronic Leveler system reset and zero....BUT this time
I found instructions for RVs with airbags... did that portion of the Zero Set point and looks like the system is working now...just a hair of on the front, but will save that for another day...all jacks are down and the green LCI light in the middle lights up steady... might be a good day.

[KCSA75]

We have a couple zero-gravity chairs that we've always had to store inside the camper. A while back I noticed our neighbor in the storage barn had a rack for his turd toter bolted to the back bumper of his camper and got an idea.
I did some measuring and determined it would work to strap those chairs to instead of putting them inside.

[Topperace]

Originally Posted by KCSA75

We have a couple zero-gravity chairs that we've always had to store inside the camper. A while back I noticed our neighbor in the storage barn had a rack for his turd toter bolted to the back bumper of his camper and got an idea.
I did some measuring and determined it would work to strap those chairs to instead of putting them inside.

Great idea!

[joe w]

Finally got around to cleaning/conditioning my roof. Used the Camco cleaner and my Ryobi battery powered rotary brush. Looks new again!

[robkelly]

Started going through her with a fine tooth comb and "fixing" the mess that came from the factory.

Jayco has apparently started using lever nuts instead of wire nuts and I found several that were either loose or the wire was stripped so short that it barely made a connection. Needless to say, I've got a lot more connections to check...