Chassis battery charge from converter

[Kevin Cooper]

I used to have a Thor, and in the literature it explained how the interconnection between the chassis and house batteries worked. So, if the voltage of the house was above 13.2 volts, the solenoid would close and charge the chassis, and vice versa.
Can anyone get me to any literature on a 2018 Alante system? I have battery jumper, alternator to house batteries working. But the chassis does not charge when shore or generator are on with the house disconnect off or on. I have a .25 amp loss somewhere that drains the battery in a couple weeks.
Any information would be appreciated.

[Alante31V]

I “think” what you are asking for is an amp L start?

https://www.rvupgradestore.com/15-Am...mp-l-start.htm

What I have in my 2021 Alante 31V.

[Kevin Cooper]

Through looking at some information on this forum, I determined that Jayco does not install a solenoid that operates two ways. So, shore power does not charge chassis battery.
I figured out a work around today. In the battery bay is the emergency solenoid that jump starts the engine chassis battery from the house. I just ordered a 30 amp switch circuit breaker and am going to install it below the jumper solenoid. It will be a temporary jumper connecting the two batteries. When I plug in the coach, the converter will charge both sets of batteries. When I unplug from shore, I will manually switch the jumper off.
This is the part I’m buying. https://a.co/d/eN6g13c
If anybody sees an issue with doing this let me know.

[youracman]

I see you have an Alante, Kevin. (Not in your signature, but I found it in your "USER CP" ...... About Me.)

Now you got me wondering. I thought my Precept chassis battery did, in fact, get charged by the Onan or shore power. I'm gonna check with my DVM next time I am at the storage lot. Maybe that's one of the items you get for extra bucks on the Precept? Dunno.....I bought mine used from a consignment lot and don't know much about the different models.

I'll let ya know, FWIW. I believe the BIM does this on my coach, but I don't know the specifics re how it really works.............if it does. If it doesn't, I will sure add a battery tender of some brand.

[Alante31V]

FORETM on here probably knows. He has a good thread on his mods.

He also has the amp L. I like it as it is charging my house/chassis batteries at storage facility via GoPower 200w solar panel. But will charge both on shore as well. Set and forget.

[Kevin Cooper]

Originally Posted by youracman

I see you have an Alante, Kevin. (Not in your signature, but I found it in your "USER CP" ...... About Me.)

Now you got me wondering. I thought my Precept chassis battery did, in fact, get charged by the Onan or shore power. I'm gonna check with my DVM next time I am at the storage lot. Maybe that's one of the items you get for extra bucks on the Precept? Dunno.....I bought mine used from a consignment lot and don't know much about the different models.

I'll let ya know, FWIW. I believe the BIM does this on my coach, but I don't know the specifics re how it really works.............if it does. If it doesn't, I will sure add a battery tender of some brand.

I can’t seem to find all the right places to enter information.
Yes we have a 2018 Alante 29S. We bought it used with 4,500 miles. We like it way better than the Thor we used to have.
As I said, I think what I’m doing that cost me $10 will take care of charging the battery while on shore or gen.
Will let everyone interested know in a few days.

[craigav]

Originally Posted by Kevin Cooper

I can’t seem to find all the right places to enter information.
Yes we have a 2018 Alante 29S. We bought it used with 4,500 miles. We like it way better than the Thor we used to have.
As I said, I think what I’m doing that cost me $10 will take care of charging the battery while on shore or gen.
Will let everyone interested know in a few days.

It sounds as if your setup is similar to most Class C setups in this regard. I use a short jumper with alligator clips to engage the solenoid whenever I want the chassis to charge from the converter. I was thinking one day I would just change out the momentary "Aux" start switch with a manual switch (the type switch with a flip top safety hood). BTW, The solenoid is continuous duty rated and engaged whenever the key is on. ~CA

[Kevin Cooper]

Originally Posted by craigav

It sounds as if your setup is similar to most Class C setups in this regard. I use a short jumper with alligator clips to engage the solenoid whenever I want the chassis to charge from the converter. I was thinking one day I would just change out the momentary "Aux" start switch with a manual switch (the type switch with a flip top safety hood). BTW, The solenoid is continuous duty rated and engaged whenever the key is on. ~CA

Craig, Are you saying that the emergency solenoid is what ties the chassis alternator/battery to the house batteries when the engine is running? Wow, I hadn’t thought of that. So, I’m using a switchable circuit breaker in place of the clips you use? Ok, my confidence level just went way up that it will work.
Thanks Craig!

[craigav]

Originally Posted by Kevin Cooper

Craig, Are you saying that the emergency solenoid is what ties the chassis alternator/battery to the house batteries when the engine is running? Wow, I hadn’t thought of that. So, I’m using a switchable circuit breaker in place of the clips you use? Ok, my confidence level just went way up that it will work.
Thanks Craig!

Yes, it is the same solenoid and common on Class C's and many Class A's as well. Some Class A's have a "BIM" which when you look at the schematic for a BIM, it is similar to just a solenoid except it has some logic to control the solenoid based on the voltage on either side (house or chassis side).

I suspect your plan is to jumper across the solenoid's larger switched connections with the switchable circuit breaker. I jumper the low current connection that energizes the solenoid's internal coil and "closes" the solenoid (the solenoid is rated for 100a but auto-reset breaker protected at 80a). My jumper wire is pretty small in size. Your plan should work just fine though imo. ~CA

[craigav]

I had purchased this item but I haven't installed one yet. My plan is to install one of these on the dash, likely next to the "Aux Start" switch, run a wire from the switch to the solenoid (or connect this switch to the "Aux Start" switches wiring... or replace the aux start switch with this,... haven't decided), fuse protect it, and then I would be able to close (turn on) the solenoid whenever I desire, which most often would only be when on shore power. This switch design is lighted and has a cover door, which makes it easy to see it is on and closing the cover turns off the switch. ~CA

As I think about it, there is no need to run a new wire as the AUX start switch has all the wires already in place to the solenoid.

[Kevin Cooper]

I was headed in that direction first. My only concern with doing that was, (I did not check this yet) that the switch and conductors were installed for momentary use, not continuous use. I would check the amp draw of the solenoid coil going through the original switch and make sure not to exceed the conductors ampacity rating. It would be very easy to install and very convenient!

[craigav]

The solenoid is rated continuous duty, I believe the reason the switch is momentary is so no one leaves it on while not on shore power. If the switch\solenoid was left on while boondocking (no shore or generator power) and you ran the battery down, then both the chassis and the coach batteries would be dead, negating the value of an emergency start option. ~CA

[Kevin Cooper]

Originally Posted by craigav

The solenoid is rated continuous duty, I believe the reason the switch is momentary is so no one leaves it on while not on shore power. If the switch\solenoid was left on while boondocking (no shore or generator power) and you ran the battery down, then both the chassis and the coach batteries would be dead, negating the value of an emergency start option. ~CA

I understand what you said. But did Jayco go cheap and put in 24 gauge wire because it was only going to be lightly used is my concern. You do not want smoking wires.

[craigav]

Originally Posted by Kevin Cooper

I understand what you said. But did Jayco go cheap and put in 24 gauge wire because it was only going to be lightly used is my concern. You do not want smoking wires.

The Class C schematic shows 16ga feeding the solenoid from the Aux Start switch. I haven't checked to be for sure, but to energize a solenoid like these shouldn't require more than 1a. ~CA

[Kevin Cooper]

Originally Posted by craigav

The Class C schematic shows 16ga feeding the solenoid from the Aux Start switch. I haven't checked to be for sure, but to energize a solenoid like these shouldn't require more than 1a. ~CA

Then there should be no issues. Take care sir!

[Kevin Cooper]

No, I do not have a schematic. I do have a module under the hood that I need to figure out what it is, how it works, and where a wire that broke off goes to. The schematic should help figure it out and maybe help find my power drain.
Thanks Craig!

[craigav]

I deleted my previous comment just now as it appears that the Aux Start Switch has a connection on it for controlling items like the Steps, TV Cutout relay, etc., and I had concerns that my switch idea would cause the TV, steps, etc. to believe the key was on, but as I looked again, that wouldn't (shouldn't) be the case afterall. I will look it all over more carefully before doing anything to be sure. Your plan to just jumper across the solenoid should work just fine. I will give the switch idea further thought as I would like a dash switch more so just for the convenience factor. ~CA

[Kevin Cooper]

Craig, I need some help. From the chassis side of the Auxiliary (emergency) solenoid the cable runs up toward the battery. It terminates on a module that has what I’m guessing is an auto reset breaker on it. From this module is a cable that connects to the positive of the chassis battery. Does your diagram name it? There are a few smaller wires coming off it from posts with red caps on them. Two blocks with 2 posts each. Any info you have would help me find my power drain off one of the small conductors. Thank you for your time!

[craigav]

There are two self resetting breakers under the hood on mine near the solenoid, one large one at 80a on the large cable and a smaller one at 20a which goes to the steps and those items I mentioned yesterday such as the TV cutout relay.

I have to step away for a few hours, is there any way you could grab a picture or two? Also, I would suggest to contact Jayco and see if you can get the 12v and 120v wiring diagrams for your RV (not that you need the 120v for what you are asking about). There were some threads here in the forums with who to email (or call). I suspect Jayco would email them to you or provide a download site so they may be relatively quick about it, not sure though. ~CA

[Kevin Cooper]