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Old 07-20-2014, 07:06 PM   #21
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snip..... Does anyone make a traditional single plastic battery box for the taller 6V's?.......snip
There are a couple of sources out there, the one I used is referenced in the first post of this thread.

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Old 07-20-2014, 07:34 PM   #22
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Just found battery boxes made specifically for the taller 6v batteries. Purchased 2 from walmart for $12 each. Free shipping with an order over $50 so had to buy a couple more things that I needed. Will have to think about adding a little security but now I have something that will fit.
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Old 07-20-2014, 10:36 PM   #23
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Checked the 6v's I have installed in my houseboat. They are basically the same demenisions as a 12v 27 except they are taller [10" to the top of the case plus the terminals]. I like the idea of the 48" tool box but not sure I have the budget after purchasing 2 batteries. Does anyone make a traditional single plastic battery box for the taller 6V's?

I hear the concern about battery thefts, but I've never had a problem. My TT is stored in my back yard in a very private and rural setting.
I bought my boxed from amazon.com.
they are a tight fit in the battery rack of my 26bhs, but they fit. the only issue I have had with my batteries is a lack of lifting handle. I had to use a length of rope to place them in their plastic boxes.
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Old 07-21-2014, 03:25 AM   #24
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snap.... the only issue I have had with my batteries is a lack of lifting handle. I had to use a length of rope to place them in their plastic boxes.
Same here, I used the two battery box lid straps wrapped under the battery to set it into into the box...., the straps pulled free easily.

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Old 07-21-2014, 05:22 AM   #25
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What is the advantage of replacing a size say, group 31 , 12 v battery with two 6 volt types?
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Old 07-22-2014, 01:01 PM   #26
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What is the advantage of replacing a size say, group 31 , 12 v battery with two 6 volt types?
I see a big difference when I compare on the Trojan battery website.
Group 31 battery (commercial vehicle battery)
- 12V, therefore only need one for TT
- 69# of lead plate
- 177 minutes @ 25amps
- 100 ah over 20 hr rate

T-605 6V golf cart battery
- 6V, therefore need two for TT (voltage is additive for batteries in series, discharge rate is not)
- 116# of lead plate (total)
- 383 minutes @ 25amps
- 210 ah over 20 hr rate.

Brands might make a bit of difference in overall performance. But as shown above, the discharge (boondocking) capacity of your TT battery pack is proportional to the total amount of lead plate the battery pack contains.

Two group 31 batteries will give you similar capacity as two 6V, given that the total lead weight would be similar. 138# of lead, 344 min @25amps, 200 ah over 20 hr rate. Discharge rates are additive for batteries in parallel.

With your checkbook in mind, which is cheaper? (2) 6-v or (2) group 31? In my case, a 6V Napa GC battery was the same price as a 12V gp 24 deep cycle marine. So I replace my two worn out gp 24 batteries with two 6V GC batteries. Then spent $25 on Amazon for two new battery boxes, and have been happy since.
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Old 07-22-2014, 01:13 PM   #27
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FYI - I bought a cheap battery lifter handle for about $5 at Canadian Tire.

rubber strap with brass quick clamps at each end - works great!
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Old 07-22-2014, 09:27 PM   #28
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FYI - I bought a cheap battery lifter handle for about $5 at Canadian Tire.

rubber strap with brass quick clamps at each end - works great!
I have one of those. Picks up the batteries by the posts. Works great.

I went from a single group 27, to a pair of group 27's, to a pair of Trojan 105's. The 6V Trojans are a great improvement.

One reason the Trojans are better than the 24's or 27's is that the golf cart batteries are true deep cycle batteries, while the 24 and 27 batteries usually marine style batteries - a hybrid of deep cycle and regular starting-type batteries (made to be able to start a boat motor and run a trolling motor). True deep cycle batteries are the best for RVs, because they are designed for steady, low level discharge cycles.
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Old 08-05-2014, 07:31 PM   #29
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When you guys are draining your batteries down and watching the DC voltage, do you go by the voltage when it's sitting idle or loaded up? I was reading 12.26V with no real load on them and then when the furnace fan kicked on it was 12.07V. Which one do I go by in order to not drain them down too much?
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Old 06-12-2015, 12:50 PM   #30
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You want to measure the resting voltage. Preferably after the battery sits with no loads for at least an hour or more.
Voltage is not really an accurate way to determine a batteries state of charge but it is commonly used. Let your battery sit and then measure. You don't want the resting voltage to go below 12v.
It will drop below that with a load on it though depending on the size of the load.

And yes I realize this is an old post.
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Old 06-12-2015, 02:58 PM   #31
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We just did the same thing. We purchased a battery box from Interstate that was designed for 2 6v batteries and couldn't be happier with it.
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Old 12-16-2015, 06:46 PM   #32
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Nice job, Bob.

We just purchased 2 Trojan T-145 batteries and I am wondering what gauge cable I should use for the short run between one battery's positive and the other battery's negative. Is a 2 AWG cable large enough or should I go larger? Do you know the gauge of the original Jayco cables?

I notice you did your mod back in 2011. Are you still using the original batteries?

Ken
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Old 12-16-2015, 08:13 PM   #33
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snip....... Is a 2 AWG cable large enough or should I go larger? Do you know the gauge of the original Jayco cables? I notice you did your mod back in 2011. Are you still using the original batteries?....snip
Ken,

As far as the short jumper cable between your two batteries, it should match or exceed the size of your existing TT battery cables. The 2 AWG should be fine for your jumper set-up....., I believe Jayco uses 4 AWG (what my 2005 Eagle came with).

Yes, I'm still using the same two Interstate Deep Cycle batteries purchased in 2011, and all cells check out great.

Bob
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Old 12-16-2015, 11:53 PM   #34
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Thanks, Bob

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Old 12-17-2015, 10:48 AM   #35
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The rule of thumb for connecting 2 batteries in series is that the the connecting cable (between the batteries) should be no thinner than the thickest part of the battery circuit, but using the next thicker cable size is highly recommended.

If you have a 4 AWG between your Batteries negative terminal and frame ground, and a 4 AWG from the positive terminal to the TT supply, the connecting cable between the batteries should be at least 4 AWG.

If you have an inverter and the cables are 1/0 AWG connecting it to the batteries, you need to have at least a 1/0 AWG cable between the batteries.

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Old 12-17-2015, 11:00 AM   #36
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Good to know, Don. Thanks.

I do plan to install an inverter at some point so I'm thinking I will go with a 1/0 AWG cable. Do you know where I can buy a ready-made 12" or 18" cable for Trojan T-145 posts?

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Old 12-17-2015, 12:55 PM   #37
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I do plan to install an inverter at some point so I'm thinking I will go with a 1/0 AWG cable. Do you know where I can buy a ready-made 12" or 18" cable for Trojan T-145 posts?
Ken,

I do not know of any QUALITY sites that sell those sizes of 1/0AWG cables. I would recommend that if you are going to be doing wiring upgrades and or adding electrical things (inverter, SOLAR...) in the future, you may want to look into getting a heavy duty cable crimping tool (see below - Harbor Freight). I purchased one of these about 2 years ago and I am constantly using it. It crimps up to 1/0 AWG cables... Price is GREAT!!
In the long run, it will be less expensive than trying to order specific sizes on line.

I get my cable/connectors/heat shrink from Sonic Electronix, they usually ship on the same day I ordered.

Harbor Freight - Hydraulic Cable Crimping tool
Hydraulic Wire Crimping Tool
Sonic Electronix - Cable
1/0 Gauge Power & Ground Wires at Sonic Electronix
Sonic Electronix - Connectors
Ring Terminals | Car Batteries & Power | Power & Ground Wire | Amplifier Installation & Accessories | Car Amplifiers | Car Audio, Video & GPS at Sonic Electronix

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Old 12-17-2015, 03:15 PM   #38
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Thanks, Don.

I'll take your advice and make my own cables. You've made it must easier for me (and others) by including the websites.

Ken
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Old 12-17-2015, 08:43 PM   #39
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I've just done a number of custom cables and used the Hobart 770122 crimper. It worked well all the way from 4/0 awg welding wire down to 6 awg.
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Old 10-04-2016, 09:22 PM   #40
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I've purchased my T-105 batteries and a variety of parts but I'm having a hard time understanding the need for such burly wiring. Especially so because the wiring my TT came with is only 8 AWG so I believe I'd need to go all the way back to my panel if I've done my research. What I don't understand is the need to go from 8 AWG to 1/0. I found a white paper here Trojan battery put out that shows the ampacity going from 55 with 8 AWG to 170 with 1/0. Do dual T-105's really increase the need that much? I've tried understanding this with Watt's law W=V*I or watts=volts*amps and can start to understand it if one wishes to connect a 2000W inverter but, if not, why does one still need such a thick gauge wire? I'm very new to all this but would like to understand.
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