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Old 01-13-2013, 08:46 AM   #11
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The one thing that confuses me when I read that you need a flasher designed for LEDs is I had LEDs on my utility trailer and never had an issue with "fast flash" so I'm wondering if this refers to older tow vehicles? Just curious.
Type-A, good point! I have LEDs brake lights on my canoe trailer and I have no issues at all. I have pulled it with both my vehicles. And it has been loaned out many times too, with no issues. I wonder if the primary vehicle needs the right minimum load on the flasher and the trailer just adds to it. Not sure!
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Old 01-13-2013, 09:07 AM   #12
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The one thing that confuses me when I read that you need a flasher designed for LEDs is I had LEDs on my utility trailer and never had an issue with "fast flash" so I'm wondering if this refers to older tow vehicles? Just curious.
That is because you still have some incandescent lights providing resistance.. I switched 100% of my lights over to LED.. they dont burn out so you never have to worry about that and they are brighter.. (if you buy the good ones)
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Old 01-18-2013, 03:14 PM   #13
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SmokerBill, the marker lights on the TT and TV use electric that you engine makes through your alternator. The greater the load on your alternator requires more engine power to produce the required electric. So if you reduce the power load on the alternator, you in theory you would increase your fuel economy. I just wonder how much the fuel economy would increase.

Personally I have been thinking about changing my exterior lights, reason being I think LEDs are more noticeable when drive at night.
I don't understand how load on the alternator circuitry will decrease mileage. I wouldn't think the alternator armature, and bearings are going to put anymore strain on the engine if you call for more current to run the extra running lights and brake lights. It is just going to spin at what ever rate the pulley turns and the diodes pass all the DC current. The diodes under load probably heat up, but I don't understand how that would put strain in the engine. An AC compressor, I can see straining the engine, and you can hear a difference in the engine when it turns on, but I never heard the engine stain from turning on my TT lights, or even when I transmit on my ham radio, which probably draws almost 10 amps at times. I may be missing something regarding alternator operation, and if anyone can help me better understand that would be good info to have.
I do agree that the LED's seem brighter then the standard bulbs, especially in rain and fog.
I did replace all my interior bulbs with LED's and I really like them.
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Old 01-18-2013, 03:52 PM   #14
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I purchased the running/brake lights from SuperBrightLEDS and installed them today. I'll have to upload the photos later on. All the running lights are on order too.
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Old 01-18-2013, 07:59 PM   #15
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I don't understand how load on the alternator circuitry will decrease mileage. I wouldn't think the alternator armature, and bearings are going to put anymore strain on the engine if you call for more current to run the extra running lights and brake lights. It is just going to spin at what ever rate the pulley turns and the diodes pass all the DC current. The diodes under load probably heat up, but I don't understand how that would put strain in the engine. An AC compressor, I can see straining the engine, and you can hear a difference in the engine when it turns on, but I never heard the engine stain from turning on my TT lights, or even when I transmit on my ham radio, which probably draws almost 10 amps at times. I may be missing something regarding alternator operation, and if anyone can help me better understand that would be good info to have.
I do agree that the LED's seem brighter then the standard bulbs, especially in rain and fog.
I did replace all my interior bulbs with LED's and I really like them.
Energy is not free. It takes some power source to create electric. The more electric you need the more power you have to use to make the electric. In an ideal world without friction, and a perfect electrical design, what you put in (engine power) would equal what you receive (electrical power). However you need to add an efficiency factor, to account for loses.

If electricity was free, we would have no need to build such large power plants utilizing such large turbines.
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Old 01-22-2013, 04:44 PM   #16
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For my running lights, I purchased some China LEDs from Ebay. I found out that they are a bit too long. Now I'm doing some "creative engineering" to see if I can trim up the base on the LEDs to make them fit. Grrr!!!!! LOL
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Old 01-30-2014, 03:12 PM   #17
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I am replacing my clearance light bulbs with LEDs. The bulbs on the sides of the trailer came right out, but I cannot get the bulbs out of the lights on the front and rear. I even broke a bulb trying to get it out. Any ideas on how to remove the bulbs?
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Old 01-30-2014, 05:45 PM   #18
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Bargman makes several styles of replacement LED light assemblies.....I replaced my stock lights with these....



Hers a link to their website...

http://www.bargman.com/content/default.aspx
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Old 01-30-2014, 08:31 PM   #19
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Bargman makes several styles of replacement LED light assemblies.....I replaced my stock lights with these....



Hers a link to their website...

http://www.bargman.com/content/default.aspx
Very nice lights

Upgraded my utility trailer with LEDs for safety. Might get this for the TT...
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Old 01-30-2014, 08:34 PM   #20
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I replaced my tail/brake lights with a kit from command electronics. It was a little high price wise, but simplicity of converting over was worth the extra. The kit fit in the base so I did not need to remove more than the lens and old bulb socket. The lights are more noticeable at night, and brake/turn lights are more noticeable during the day, which is what I wanted. Anything to try and prevent getting hit from behind.
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