Variations in 2022 Jay Feather Micro 166FBS builds

[EJH]

Originally Posted by boatguy

Feeling lucky because our 2022 has the drawer under the fridge , 4 drawers under the TV , the shelf in the bathroom above the toilet , the sofa pull down center drink holder , and the S.S. sink in the kitchen . Also has all the options like 12v fridge , 30lb propane tanks, heated tanks, convection Micro and 190w solar.
The only things that its lacking is the stuff I didnt want or need , like Jay command (don't trust the fancy new fangled computer controlled everything ! Give me SIMPLE !) , and the useless (imho) roof rack . It has the outer part of the rack to hook the ladder on , but the center part is not installed . Ok by me ! Not sure what you can even store on the 1/2 rack .

Also, love that Jay Smart system for the lights . Very nice for safety .

Just found out tonight that when you turn on the outside blue lights on the camp side (door side) , the speakers also light up blue .......cool !

The roof rack is actually one of the most useful features for me, and anyone who wants to add a second solar panel. You can easily mount another panel to the rack without putting holes in the roof (and possibly compromising the roof warranty).

[boatguy]

Originally Posted by EJH

The roof rack is actually one of the most useful features for me, and anyone who wants to add a second solar panel. You can easily mount another panel to the rack without putting holes in the roof (and possibly compromising the roof warranty).

Fair enough . I just didn't see what could really be carried up on the roof rack with the big A/C unit taking up much of the space. Solar panel mount would be a good use for it tho .

I just measured the roof for a second 190w panel , and it looks like I can fit one on the off door side up front .......kind of diagonal to the factory Go Power 190w panel . Would like to match the factory panel , but those Go Power panels are way more $$$ than most any other brand !

[DonBr]

I chose to put in 2 Renogy 100W panels as you can see. They are in parallel series, 2 100s in parallel to make 200W, then series with the factory 190. That actually makes it 380, as the Amperage is limited by the lower value of the 190. Renogy and GoPower are almost identical voltage (22+ under load), which can be important. So, I've got 380W at 44V. Got the kit with the 40A MPPT controller, which is too large to go on the wall (the slide would hit it), and I wanted it down by my lithiums anyway, so it is in the water heater compartment along with the BT module for monitoring. Wires in the wall joined, and a picture over the hole. The point of 44V is that I'm only pushing 9+ amps down that relatively small wire/long run.

[DonBr]

I've recently learned of another difference in 166FBS builds, which is the step. Some got 2-step, including me, and others got 3-step. My wife struggles with the 2-step, so someday I may convince her it would be worth it to change it out.

[boatguy]

Originally Posted by DonBr

I chose to put in 2 Renogy 100W panels as you can see. They are in parallel series, 2 100s in parallel to make 200W, then series with the factory 190. That actually makes it 380, as the Amperage is limited by the lower value of the 190. Renogy and GoPower are almost identical voltage (22+ under load), which can be important. So, I've got 380W at 44V. Got the kit with the 40A MPPT controller, which is too large to go on the wall (the slide would hit it), and I wanted it down by my lithiums anyway, so it is in the water heater compartment along with the BT module for monitoring. Wires in the wall joined, and a picture over the hole. The point of 44V is that I'm only pushing 9+ amps down that relatively small wire/long run.

Originally Posted by DonBr

I've recently learned of another difference in 166FBS builds, which is the step. Some got 2-step, including me, and others got 3-step. My wife struggles with the 2-step, so someday I may convince her it would be worth it to change it out.

Good idea on the 2-100w panels vs the single 190W Go Power (GP is nuts wanting that much $$$ for a panel !).
My last RV , I had 2-175w Renogy panels running to a Victron Blue Solar 50/100 MPPT . I pulled the Victron, but left the panels up on the roof with a cheap Renogy controller for trade in . Not sure what to do with the Victron . Would love to use it in the 166 with some more panels, but its more of a "behind the scenes" solar controller vs , the nice Go Power with the digital display on the wall . For now, I may add an additional 190/200w of solar and stick with the GP PWM controller , since it does really fit well in the 166 . I am just running 2 240AH 6volt batteries, so will prob be just fine . More solar panels will overcome the lack of an MPPT controller .........somewhat .

Yes, noticed the different stairs on some . Ours has the 2 step .

Also , am I just imagining this, but in some 166 reviews I have watched , some of them had a spray port on the door side, and an outside shower on the off door side ? Ours only has the Outside shower , no Spray port .

[DonBr]

I'm having trouble visualizing what you mean by a "spray port." In any case I don't think I've seen anything of the sort.

[boatguy]

Originally Posted by DonBr

I'm having trouble visualizing what you mean by a "spray port." In any case I don't think I've seen anything of the sort.

Yes, you are prob correct . Perhaps I am confusing the "quick disconnect , spray port" with the Winnebago Micro Minnie that we were also looking at before we purchased the Jayco .

How about the upper cabinet doors ......... some I have see swing up to open and have the support arm , others I have seen just swing sideways to open .

Also noticed the sofas are different colors depending on if the color choice is Modern Farmhouse or Vintage gray .

[DonBr]

The color I don't count, as that is like the other few options that could be chosen. I have not seen any with cabinet doors that swing side-to-side, but if they exist that would certainly be a difference!

[boatguy]

I think the sideways cabinet opening must be a running change . Here is a picture of a fairly new 166 , that I know has only been on the dealer lot for less than 1 month .

[DonBr]

Interesting. I think I like the lift up better.

[TomC_AZ]

As EJH has mentioned the rack is great for quick and easy installation of the solar panels. I have pics on other threads but have 600w up there now. Works great as long as you get the correct mounting nuts to use. Those were the hardest part to track down for the section of a DIY rack for one of the panels.

I believe BoatGuy mentions not having the JayCommand as a bonus. I would not agree, I have it and I am VERY thankful for it. Because of it I have a single system that allows me to add other sensors such as the TPMS, Temp and Propane monitors. All of which I have and work great! It is also very nice to PO friends when bugs are going for the lights on your trailer and they get up to turn off their lights so they all come to you. I can just flip out the phone and turn everything off never moving from my seat at the fire! Also and this is the biggest part of why I like it, it will cut off power to all devices it has hooked up to it when the voltage is too high or something else is goofy. I had this happen with the original POS GoPower PWM solar charge controller could not handle the additional panels. Without this option a lot of items in the trailer would have fried or worse wires would possibly caught on fire. But the system suppressed it all.

FYI get rid of ALL GoPower electronics, they are crap. The panel is good, but everything else is questionable. There is a reason most RV companies are slowing moving to Victron options in 2023 models, it works and is solid. I can easily and clearly see it isolating between input and output side of my charge controller.

Also with the JayCommand I can still do everything with buttons for lights, slide, awning etc.. Including dimming of lights, just hold down the button and they will dim vs a slider button/function on the phone app.

[Forester2]

Tom, was the existing wiring to the controller both from the roof and to the battery heavy enough for the 600 watts of solar?

[TomC_AZ]

Yes, at least on my trailer it is, it is 8AWG wire that is run from the roof down. I wouldn't go over 600w without another run. I used MC4 connectors to connect the roof wire to some new wire that I ran down the bath wall, under the couch, through the water heater space and into the passthrough. A hole already existed in the bath wall to accommodate this and I drilled a new one in the interior wall of the water heater space. The charge controller and breakers that now sit in front of the panels are under that space and is now a much safer design than what Jayco provided.

My setup is 12v panels, if you go to 24v panels you can put more wattage up on the roof with the same wire.

[DonBr]

Tom, your answer is somewhat confusing. 12V panels? The stock 190W is a 24V panel, and I thought you started with stock. My GoPower panel produces a bit over 22 volts under load, 24V unloaded. I added a pair of 100W Renogy panels that are within .1 volts of the GoPower, and paralleled then to make 200W, then put them in series with the GoPower to make 380W (the 200 is pulled down to 190 in this configuration) at 44+ volts. If I were to add another 200 in series I would have 570W at 66+ volts. In any of those cases the amperage is/would be the same as a single 190, and amps are the only thing that matter for wire size. My stock wiring is 10AWG, which can handle at least 30 feet at 10A, which is slightly more than the panels can put out. They run to the MPPT controller very near the batteries, with a run of 6 feet of 8AWG (because of slack I allowed) and could handle up to about 60A but is only being asked to handle 30A.

[Forester2]

I have two the the 190 panels and pretty sure I have 8 wire to controller. I know I have 8 on the roof now if you recall my problems with the original dealer installation. This maxs out GoPower controller which has worked fine. My additional 200 watts is with a Renology suitcase with seperate controller direct to batteries.
My conundrum now is getting a better converter setup: the AD I put in works but is SLOW!! Eleven hours with generator to gain 9% on 2- 100amp Battleborns? Think I can do better some how. Don't know if I should get ANOTHER power center with converter or come up with a direct converter setup to the batteries.

[DonBr]

I decided to go to a direct converter. Victron 30A unit (about $200), plugged in to the water heater circuit. Simple, small, and works well.

[TomC_AZ]

Ok so this can get very confusing but I will try and explain:
12v vs 24v panels, this is mainly the difference between how the cells in the panels are configured. 36 cells for a 12v and 72 for a 24v panels.

Now, a 12v panel will have open voltage of 24v this can be seen on the specs of these two panels:
https://gpelectric.com/products/190-...-module-black/
https://www.newpowa.com/collections/...2v-solar-panel

Both panels are 12v panels, but voltage will vary depending on how the sun is hitting them and thus the output you have seen on your system.

It also depends on how the panels are connected, series vs parallel. Parallel you increase the amps but keep volts the same in series you increase the volts but keep amps the same. (https://understandsolar.com/solar-pa...in%20series%21)

Now the charge controller is also a variable in this mix. I will stick with MPPT controllers as they truly separate/control the input from the output. The ratings on them can vary but for example my Victron 100/50 means that it will handle up to 100 volts input (however I arrive at that) and output a solid 12-14v (since it is a 12v charger) up to 50amps for charging.

The stock panels are 12v, but they will vary as the sun hits them as well any/all solar panels. The wattage is not as important of a number as you can mix and match depending on how you sting them. But knowing what type it is 12v vs 24v along with the open voltage numbers will determine how or what other protections you may or may not need. For example, fusing each string so that you will not fry your panels due to overpowering from one to the other etc. etc..

But you have 12v panels, not 24v. In fact I do not know of any RV mfg that uses 24v panels for any of their OEM systems, yet. Doesn't mean they wont or it does not exist, they just have not moved to them yet.

[Forester2]

Not sure I understand a converter on water heater circuit. Is the converter in your power center still active and Vitron a additional unit? Isnt hot water breaker a 20 amp?

[TomC_AZ]

Don, which converter did you go with? I have been looking at one of these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...OHXF24LJ&psc=1

[DonBr]

Sounds great, but--- I see very little change in voltage as sun hits my panels. I see change only in amperage. That is what is expected. My MPPT controller, which is 100/40, shows 44V input all the time from my 2-bank series. The two links you posted show 24V open circuit on the GoPower and 22V open on the Newpowa, 20.4 and 18.6 full load. I've never seen full load, and don't expect to ever, so I will see little change in voltage. I chose the Renogy panels because their voltage is an almost exact match to the GoPower. Are you mixing Newpowa with GoPower? What watt panels and how is your system connected? As I said, mine is series/parallel, with the parallel part making the two 100W panels into 200W, and the series part making the 44V (and pulling the 200W down to 190W in the process, due to the lowest amperage in a parallel setting the max flow).