AC unit leaking into RV

curls · 07-18-2018, 07:47 AM

2011 Jayco X19H with a Coleman AC on the roof. Bought used this spring.
AC worked fantastically for a few outings, but last trip it decided to not be so fantastic.
I turned it on, walked out to tend to something, and when I came back in about 30 minutes later there was a constant drip of water coming from the front road-side corner of the unit, dripping all over the floor! It was not a slight drop - it was coming out fairly steady and took a number of bath towels to soak up.
The ONLY thing different about this event vs other times where the AC worked fine, was that we were not 100% level front-to-back due to a terribly unlevel pad where I had the tongue jack maxed out and was short still about 1-2" of front height to be truly level. (I was out of wooden blocks, too, which didn't help!).

I went to test at home but of course the AC tripped the 15A breaker for the one outlet I have near the front of the garage where the RV is parked close by. I will be able to run the 30A extension cord to the outlet for the kitchen stove to check on this early next week when I'm back from a trip (flight).

But, what I wanted to know, is "are there any things to specifically look for that would cause a leak into the RV like this when running the AC? Or, is this almost surely due to being not perfectly level?"

**norty1** · 07-18-2018, 09:05 AM

Check the 4 small bolts that keep the gasket sealed to the roof. Lots of info on this site about that. https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f...cted-2880.html

Also check the pan drains on the roof. Often they get clogged up with gunk from dust etc.
https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f...ips-19659.html

Camper_bob · 07-18-2018, 09:17 AM

ETA: Norty beat me to it with his short and sweet explanation!

First, remove the inside parts of the AC unit. Typically 4-8 screws depending on how your unit is configured, so it's pretty easy. You can then see up through the roof opening into the outside part of the unit.

Once you have all those inside parts off, check the hold-down bolts. These are located on the 4 corners and have been known to loosen over time (or be loose from the factory). Next, check that those bolts are compressing the foam gasket appropriately. There should be a telltale yellow tab somewhere along that gasket that shows what the compression should be. Also check the condition of the gasket at this time; you won't be able to tell a lot from here, but there might be something obvious.

Next, go on the roof and remove the shroud (4 screws, pretty easy except for that being on the roof thing!) There should be a drain for the condensation that routes down to the pan on the bottom of the unit. Check the hole in the pan for mold or other debris that may be blocking that drain. If you find any, clear it so the water can get out of the pan and onto the roof to drain harmlessly away. There isn't much space between that drain hole and the roof surface, so it's common for crap to get in there and block that opening.

Chances are pretty high any one of these will uncover the problem. The only terribly difficult thing would be if you have to replace the foam gasket. That would involve removing the outside unit. It's not too bad if you are careful and take your time, but it is a possible cause, they don't last forever. I think Mark Polk did and "RV Education 101" video on this. Search it on Youtube if it comes to that.

curls · 07-19-2018, 05:34 AM

Thanks folks.
Weeks ago, I did read about the 4 long screws working loose... so I checked mine and they are under spring tension, so it's doubtful they worked loose. I checked anyways, and they were not at all loose.
I'll check into the remaining things on those lists next week. Much appreciated!

**norty1** · 07-19-2018, 05:41 AM

If you are feeling very mechanical, there are a few sheet metal screws that when removed will give access to the evaporator coils on the roof top view. You can gently remove the cover and look down into the drain pan from above. There are youtube videos of regular people cleaning the coils and drains.

One even suggests drilling the drains on the plastic pan to make it slightly larger to keep a crumb like piece of trash from clogging it up. I used a air gun to blow my coils out.

TWP723 · 07-19-2018, 06:47 AM

Most likely the weep holes are clogged in the pan. I enlarged them a bit and haven't had problems since. Why the holes are so small is beyond me, no reason for it.

curls · 07-29-2018, 01:38 PM

Thanks everyone. I got up on the roof today and checked out the AC - after taking out the approx. 472 screws, I accessed the drip pan and indeed both drain holes were clogged with what resembled damp dryer lint. I didn't want to risk damaging the roof membrane so I didn't enlarge the holes, but I will one day when I have a piece of metal to put between the hole and the roof.
I ran the AC on high-cool for an hour and there was no water inside, so I think it worked!

wabirch · 07-31-2018, 06:27 PM

Great thread, hope to keep these tips in mind.

goldenroads · 03-17-2019, 03:57 PM

Does this fix (tightening 4 bolts) apply to ducted A/C units? I have a leak in the middle of my kitchen in our 3210 toy hauler.

I can’t find any pictures here but on the internet everything I find shows tightening something from the inside. My A/C is ducted and there is nothing I can see in the ceiling area to tighten. I think I needs to be done from above???

Need to get this leak to stop and not sure what to do here. Any ideas????

**norty1** · 03-17-2019, 04:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by goldenroads

Does this fix (tightening 4 bolts) apply to ducted A/C units? I have a leak in the middle of my kitchen in our 3210 toy hauler.

I can’t find any pictures here but on the internet everything I find shows tightening something from the inside. My A/C is ducted and there is nothing I can see in the ceiling area to tighten. I think I needs to be done from above???

Need to get this leak to stop and not sure what to do here. Any ideas????

The units without an inside grill are a different animal. Only access is from the outside. I'm not familiar with them but they must attach from above.

goldenroads · 03-17-2019, 04:33 PM

Yeah, I figured as much. The manual is useless and I can’t find ANY articles, posts or videos about these ducted systems leaking. I’m just lucky I guess.

So frustrating -can’t find any info at all....

Grumpy · 03-17-2019, 06:03 PM

You need to remove the shroud and then the cover over the squirrel cage blower. Under the blower cover you will see 4 5/16 or 3/8 (can't remember which) lag bolts that hold the unit to the roof. However your problem may be a clogged drain pan which you can also check once the squirrel cage cover is removed.

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