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Old 01-14-2013, 11:28 AM   #1
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Adding a quick disconnect LP port to 2011 X17Z

Very simply, I would like to add a quick disconnect LP port to our X17Z to attach an outside stove.
For the most part this looks fairly easy as their is an LP "distribution" block with 2 open ports. I am need of ideas on how to mount the quick disconnect to the frame.
I know the 2012's and 13's have this option, but Jayco will not tell me whether the bracket for those can or cannot be put on our trailer since its a modification.

If anyone happens to own a newer model and would be willing to take a pic of how the bracket is attached, I would be VERY thankful I can order the part, but I don't know how/where it is attached. These frames are weird to me and there isn't much on the outside to attach anything to.

Also, if anyone has done this and has another idea on how to attach it, that would be great also.

Thanks,

Allen
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Old 01-14-2013, 02:07 PM   #2
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The picture you are looking for is the "bracket/stripping" on the side of the TT that holds the outside stove?
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Old 01-14-2013, 02:19 PM   #3
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No, I am wanting to know how the bracket is attached to the frame of the trailer, where you would plug in the lp line.
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Old 01-14-2013, 03:21 PM   #4
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amabee, Last year I looked into the same project for my 2011 X17Z, and gave up after several Q and A sessions with 2 local propane dealers. It's a long story. My suggestion would be for you to start there also. Tell them what you want to do (a diagram is better) and let them advise you.

The bracket with the quick disconnect can be purchased from several online locations, but I don't remember which ones. My trailer had a hole on the opposite side the distribution (junction) box that looked like it was made to accomodate the gas line. If plan A had held up, I was going to run the gas line through that hole and bolt or screw the fitting to the frame.

Let us know how that project turns out. I still want to do it.
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Old 01-14-2013, 05:50 PM   #5
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I had to do the same thing with my FB22. It was all pretty simple. I disconnected the flex gas hose where it joins the black pipe manifold at the front of the trailer and inserted a "T" fitting. From that, I had to use an assortment of fittings, bushings, nipples, flares, etc. to get it down to 3/8" copper tubing with flare fittings. I ran the copper tubing from there out to the side of the trailer securing it to the frame with pipe clamps. You can drill through the lip of the I-beam frame and attach them with #10 machine scores and lock nuts. At the end I put on a quick connect to match the one on the propane hose. Again, I had to do some adapting to get everything to match up with the right sizes of everything, but any good propane store can help you size everything and tell you how to put it together. Pipe threads use yellow teflon tape, not white, and the flare fittings do not use any sealant. It's not rocket science, so don't try to over-engineer it. Get the appropriate fittings for gas. The standard air compressor quick connects from Home Depot will not work.

The PVC thing is just a cover I rigged up to keep road grime out of the coupling assembly.



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Old 01-15-2013, 05:18 AM   #6
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OnTheGo I will definitely post some pics when I get this done.

Bob, I don't know if I can install it quite like you did, but you did give me some ideas for a plan B. I've got most of the parts located, planning to run a 10' flexible line straight across from my existing LP distribution block. Finding the quick-disconnects is easy, finding a bracket of some sort, not so much. The service manager at our dealer is checking the bracket on one of the 2013's to see if it could possibly be used on other models/years. I am hoping it just attaches to the frame, in which case I am sure I could make it work.
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Old 01-15-2013, 05:25 AM   #7
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Bend up an L-shaped sheet metal bracket, obtain a 1/4" NPT bulkhead fitting, drill a hole in the bracket for the bulkhead fitting and attach the bracket to the frame with a couple of zip screws. Run some 3/8" soft copper tubing back to your manifold and your good to go.

If your stove runs off high pressure, you'll have to change the burner orifice size so that you get the proper gas flow for a given BTU output. I bought a portable grill from Lowes for $5 that was on clearance because the control regulator assembly was missing (it was designed to run on the squatty 1 lb disposable cylinders). I looked up the orifice sizing tables on line and made the appropriate sized orifice to run on 11" water column pressure which is what all your stuff in the trailer runs on.
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Old 01-15-2013, 12:49 PM   #8
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Good idea for the bracket, I think I may have a plan to make that. After checking the local hardware store I'm not using copper, they want $25 for 10' of 3/8" tubing, I can get an 8' rubber gas line w/fittings for $30 online. I know I could get the copper tubing cheaper elsewhere, but it would a 60mile round trip, not worth it.

I am planning on getting a Camp Chef 2 burner stove as they run on low pressure.
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Old 01-15-2013, 01:11 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcfarmall View Post
Bend up an L-shaped sheet metal bracket, obtain a 1/4" NPT bulkhead fitting, drill a hole in the bracket for the bulkhead fitting and attach the bracket to the frame with a couple of zip screws. Run some 3/8" soft copper tubing back to your manifold and your good to go.

If your stove runs off high pressure, you'll have to change the burner orifice size so that you get the proper gas flow for a given BTU output. I bought a portable grill from Lowes for $5 that was on clearance because the control regulator assembly was missing (it was designed to run on the squatty 1 lb disposable cylinders). I looked up the orifice sizing tables on line and made the appropriate sized orifice to run on 11" water column pressure which is what all your stuff in the trailer runs on.
mcfarmall's post brought back some of the memories of the problems that I had. He is correct when it comes to matching gas flow (pressure) to the BTU output of the appliance. I understand the industry is trying to keep us from harms way, and that's a good thing. I wanted to use a Coleman Grill and a Coleman Stove from the quick connect. They are regulated to receive HP and the (already) regulated pressure I would be feeding them would not have been enough. Please check your appliance to see if it will use the pressure you will be supplying it. Also, if your supply hose is too long you will start losing pressure. I remember joking with the guy at the propane store. I told him if he was watching the news and there was a body burning up in tree, it was probably me. Please be careful.
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Old 01-15-2013, 02:06 PM   #10
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Yep, I knew about the pressure thing, we have an old Coleman stove from our tent camping days that I was thinking about using, but I would have to hook it up differently.

The low pressure Camp Chefs run on the same pressure as RV's, found many posts of people using these, they work well from what I've read. I talked to Camp Chef about this as well. I don't think I'll blow anything up(at least I hope not). Once I get all the parts gathered up and if the weather will cooperate, it shouldn't take long. After reading the comments here I went out to the garage to see if I could find something laying around that might work for a bracket of some sort, then I noticed the angle iron holding up the garage door tracks. I think technically its "perforated" angle iron, should do the trick. I found a couple pre-drilled holes on the frame that are in the right spot and are exactly 5" apart, since the holes on the angle are all 1" apart I should be able to attach my bracket w/out drilling any new holes in the frame.
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