Help with inverter choice

[Cosmik Debris]

I was given a Dometic freezer/refrigerator. It operates on AC or DC. Works great, freezing stuff like a household chest freezer. What I'd like to do is power it while driving. Last year we'd freeze things down to single digits, load it up and drive to next campground, unload it and plug into power, where it would show temp had risen to low 20s. Dometic used to sell a kit for tapping truck battery and running wire to bed of truck for 12v, but since that division has moved to Australia, I can't get an answer from them, no matter how I try, on my options.
I'm going to (try) attaching a photo of the label with specs.
Seems I can take truck battery and step it up to AC, or stay with 12v. Looking for knowledgeable electrical wizard advice to avoid letting out any magic smoke.
Thanks

[Grumpy]

The 12v cord shows up on Amazon for $21.00. It plugs into a standard cigarette lighter receptacle. It has a built in Inverter, at least my Norcold did.

Just search CF 80 12v power cord.

[Cosmik Debris]

Originally Posted by Grumpy

The 12v cord shows up on Amazon for $21.00. It plugs into a standard cigarette lighter receptacle. It has a built in Inverter, at least my Norcold did.

Just search CF 80 12v power cord.

One of those came with ours.
I assumed that a standard 12v outlet would be much less than the needed amps. I guess I'll give it a try.
Thanks

[Grumpy]

Originally Posted by Cosmik Debris

One of those came with ours.
I assumed that a standard 12v outlet would be much less than the needed amps. I guess I'll give it a try.
Thanks

Ran ours for over 30 yrs that way. And for what its worth, our Norcold version (1979) is still running strong.

[SloPoke]

Originally Posted by Grumpy

Ran ours for over 30 yrs that way. And for what its worth, our Norcold version (1979) is still running strong.

X2 - It has to be the best darn fridge/freezer ever designed. I put a second Battery in our FJ-Cruiser that charges while on the road, and powers the fridge and other lighting while camping. That battery can run this fridge for 3-days and keep everything at temperature while the outside is 90-100's.

I would find/put a 12v outlet where you plan to keep your fridge and use the 12v as primary source.

Norcold Tek-II is our model. They use a pulse compressor to move the refrigerant... very efficient TEK plate design on the inside evaporator.

[Cosmik Debris]

Took mine out to the truck and plugged it in and it ran great! I guess I was over thinking this and had my checkbook out ready to buy something. I'll spend that money on beer. Thanks all.

[RoyBraddy]

I had a problem once just plugging into any ole 12VDC socket when I was pulling around 5AMPS DC current for extended times. Burned my plug and socket up hehe...

I ended up getting a 'matched' BLUE SEA Model 1015 12VDC Socket and PLUG with 10AMP DC Fuse from AMAZON and installed that near my area I was needing the connection. Used a 12GUAGE BOAT WIRE CABLE set for 12VDC source as well... 14 Gauge would probably work ok too... You can pull 6AMPS PLUS all day long using one of these setups...



Roy Ken

[Cosmik Debris]

Originally Posted by RoyBraddy

I had a problem once just plugging into any ole 12VDC socket when I was pulling around 5AMPS DC current for extended times. Burned my plug and socket up hehe...

I ended up getting a 'matched' BLUE SEA Model 1015 12VDC Socket and PLUG with 10AMP DC Fuse from AMAZON and installed that near my area I was needing the connection. Used a 12GUAGE BOAT WIRE CABLE set for 12VDC source as well... 14 Gauge would probably work ok too... You can pull 6AMPS PLUS all day long using one of these setups...



Roy Ken

This is exactly the information I was looking for. Thanks. I knew that there would be experts here for this.