I have searched and am yet to find a drawing or schematics for installing the inverter in a pre-wired rig. I made this which should explain what is needed. I am not sure if the 12V out is only the bedside, TV and outside fridge as mentioned, but switching breakers may limit to only these when on inverter power.
So I just finished doing this, feel free to ask any questions. My particular model ended up being only the bedside outlets unfortunately. I also got a lithium battery and moved that into the pass through next to the inverter. I ended up using a Renogy 2000w inverter with a 30a transfer switch to go between inverter and shore power.
PLEASE test that romex to confirm which side is hot from the power center. Mine was labeled backwards and I had remembered one of the many inverter prep threads on here someone mentioned not to trust it.
Edit, here’s my crude diagram attached, hope it helps. Let me know if you have any specific questions.
I’m also attaching some pictures of the final install. Maybe I’ll do a new thread so all of this is out there, it was hard for me to find info as well.
Thanks so much for this. I have 2022 22rb with 200a solar and charge controller. I know the bedroom outlets and TV are inverted, but not sure about any others. I have a 12v fridge and wonder if that's on the inverter prepped loop. Wish it was as it would make good sense, right?
Just yesterday I checked out the loop in the passthrough and it's funny how you say yours had the sticker on the wrong way because the first thing I thought when I looked at it was 'Knowing all I've read, I bet there's a good chance that sticker is not accurate."
A lot of my questions could/will be answered when the weather gets warmer and I can just get my a$$ in there and do some poking around.
__________________ 2022 Jay Feather 22rb
2023 Ford F-150 SuperCrew 2.7L EcoBoost, 4x4, 3.73 axle, #1900 payload #10,100 tow capacity Timbren Rear Suspension Enhancement
Eaz-lift Recurve6 W/D
Best write-up I've seen yet on the "pre-wired" inverter option. THANK YOU for clarifying.
A few thoughts if you have any insight;
-This seems like a lot of cost/effort for only the bedside outlets (I think this is all I will get in my Micro 171BH as well.)
-Now knowing that it only powers that outlet, would it have made more sense to try and tie every outlet into this system or go much cheaper and have smaller/cheaper inverter with no transfer switch, directly off the battery to plug into for use on occasion? I ask because I have a 1200w inverter sitting around and seems I wouldn't gain much by doing this for it either. I am not trying to run micro or AC unit, just looking to have a little AC power if needed.
I agreed on the original post and all the great info, including the diagrams. I too thought it a lot of work for only bedside outlets.
I think the best, least work option is to have a bank of separate batteries (somewhere...let's say under dining seat) tied to an inverter, then plug your camper into that inverter.
It's what I used to do with my pop-up. Difference with my travel trailer is there's no easy way to get the cord into the camper without leaving something open. I'd considered installing an access hose/cord port, where you'd run the camper power cord in and plug into the inverter.
A power system completely separate of the camper's system.
I'm going to do this, but instead of a bank of batteries, I'm going to use my EcoFlow Pro 3600w electric generator. For this summer I'll use it out of my covered truck bed, but eventually I'd like to figure how/where I could integrate it into the camper...maybe front passthrough, installing an 'access hatch' in the floor.
__________________ 2022 Jay Feather 22rb
2023 Ford F-150 SuperCrew 2.7L EcoBoost, 4x4, 3.73 axle, #1900 payload #10,100 tow capacity Timbren Rear Suspension Enhancement
Eaz-lift Recurve6 W/D
I agreed on the original post and all the great info, including the diagrams. I too thought it a lot of work for only bedside outlets.
I think the best, least work option is to have a bank of separate batteries (somewhere...let's say under dining seat) tied to an inverter, then plug your camper into that inverter.
It's what I used to do with my pop-up. Difference with my travel trailer is there's no easy way to get the cord into the camper without leaving something open. I'd considered installing an access hose/cord port, where you'd run the camper power cord in and plug into the inverter.
A power system completely separate of the camper's system.
I'm going to do this, but instead of a bank of batteries, I'm going to use my EcoFlow Pro 3600w electric generator. For this summer I'll use it out of my covered truck bed, but eventually I'd like to figure how/where I could integrate it into the camper...maybe front passthrough, installing an 'access hatch' in the floor.
Great thinking and I agree.
In the midst of looking into all this "inverter pre-wire" I have had the option of just utilizing an eclectic generator worse case as well. I think I am now there. I have been using a Jackery for very remote camping for years and has severed me well. Integrated into the trailer, it could be very versatile with a lot of options.
I'll add a 12V outlet to charge it off my trailer set-up but also have the option to pull it out and place it anywhere I want with my mobile solar panels as needed. This will give me all the power I would need with more versatility in the system, while not worrying about frying the complicated trailer electronics.
For those who are on the fence, a good 500W electric generator is roughly the same cost (without labor) as adding a inverter/auto transfer switch to your system. Throw labor cost in and you could just buy a 1000W+ electric/solar generator and stand alone panel for the same cost.
Great thinking and I agree.
In the midst of looking into all this "inverter pre-wire" I have had the option of just utilizing an eclectic generator worse case as well. I think I am now there. I have been using a Jackery for very remote camping for years and has severed me well. Integrated into the trailer, it could be very versatile with a lot of options.
I'll add a 12V outlet to charge it off my trailer set-up but also have the option to pull it out and place it anywhere I want with my mobile solar panels as needed. This will give me all the power I would need with more versatility in the system, while not worrying about frying the complicated trailer electronics.
For those who are on the fence, a good 500W electric generator is roughly the same cost (without labor) as adding a inverter/auto transfer switch to your system. Throw labor cost in and you could just buy a 1000W+ electric/solar generator and stand alone panel for the same cost.
Tell me...how you go about adding the 12volt plug to your trailer? I'm curious.
The EcoFlow Pro 3600w is coming down in price all the time. Like I said though, I may not have bought it for myself, but the restaurant bought it...so...it's available to me.
__________________ 2022 Jay Feather 22rb
2023 Ford F-150 SuperCrew 2.7L EcoBoost, 4x4, 3.73 axle, #1900 payload #10,100 tow capacity Timbren Rear Suspension Enhancement
Eaz-lift Recurve6 W/D
Tell me...how you go about adding the 12volt plug to your trailer? I'm curious.
The EcoFlow Pro 3600w is coming down in price all the time. Like I said though, I may not have bought it for myself, but the restaurant bought it...so...it's available to me.
If anyone is interested, I just completed an inverter install on my 2024 22BH, and can provide some additional information about my experience.
Before my install, I reached out to Jayco and got a copy of the wiring diagrams for my rig (both 12V and 120V). Apparently, they don't have a wiring schematic actually showing the path of travel for the wiring from point to point, only a layout diagram showing the point of service/outlet locations. According to the diagram (attached), the inverter prewire in my passthrough storage is "supposed" to feed the outlets on the utility circuit marked with a triangle on the diagram.
After disconnecting from shore power and cutting and testing the pre-wire, I verified that the pre-wire on my rig feeds everything shown on the diagram with a triangle (main TV, bedside outlets, exterior kitchen fridge outlet) PLUS, it ALSO feeds the outlet for the in-ceiling bedroom TV AND the two outlets in my trailer bunks - so, pretty much everything on the utility circuit (marked AE on the diagram). Don't ask me about the path of the wiring because I have no idea and I'm not ripping anything else apart to figure it out.
I purchased Progressive Dynamics 2000 Watt Inverter w/ built-in Transfer Switch, wired the Romex prewire from the load center to the AC IN of the inverter and the Romex to the outlets to the AC OUT of the inverter. Of course, I had to run new DC cables directly to the inverter from my battery with a 200amp fuse for the positive (in my case), and also run the remote switch for the inverter into the trailer cabin for easy on/off. Once everything was connected, I can verify that I have inverter power to: 1) main TV outlet, 2) bedroom TV outlet, 3) both bedside outlets, 4) the outdoor kitchen fridge outlet, and 5) both top and bottom bunk outlets when disconnected from shore power and the inverter is powered on. In my situation, my main cabin fridge, on-demand water heater, cabin lights, etc. are all 12V, so they maintain power whether the inverter is running or not as long as my battery is good - no air conditioner of course. That's why you don't see any of the service points for this equipment on the 120V diagram. When the inverter is off and I am on shore power, all the 12V equipment is powered through the trailer's WFCO converter and all the 120V equipment runs off the 30amp service. Don't get me started on the WFCO converter and my lithium upgrade...that's a different thread.
Anyway, I am providing this information for anyone trying to figure out if they want to use the pre-wire or not. This setup works for me, but I can't guarantee anyone else's rig is wired the same way. If Jayco doesn't have or isn't willing to share an actual wiring schematic that shows how the wires run to/from the prewire location in the passthrough, then the path of travel from the inverter circuit to various points in your rig might be different. I think the people who put these things together might be taking a liquid lunch after seeing all the variations in as-built installations.
Hello all, I am brand new to this forum and have a brand spanking new-old stock (2023) 171BH. Still learning about the little unit and wrestling with power options.
I picked up a nice little 3800w gas inverter generator that powers this thing really nice. However, to my horror many campgrounds are limiting or even banning gas generators. So I need some other options when off grid or don't have power.
I've read a bit about the inverter pre-wiring in this unit and sounds like it really isn't a good option for the time/cost to power a few plugs.....
So here is my one burning question, why not plug a 2000w inverter directly in to the shore power receptacle (JUST LIKE A GENERATOR), but do the one extra step of killing the breaker to the 120V to 12V on-board inverter that charges the 12 volts???
With this approach you utilize the existing trailer wiring and make all the receptacles live.
PLEASE test that romex to confirm which side is hot from the power center. Mine was labeled backwards and I had remembered one of the many inverter prep threads on here someone mentioned not to trust it.
I’m also attaching some pictures of the final install. Maybe I’ll do a new thread so all of this is out there, it was hard for me to find info as well.
Tbourne, that box mounted up High I assume is a auto fail over relay. Where the AC passes through the metal box it really needs at least a snap in plastic bushing to protect the electrical wires from chafing on the metal box. you could also use a cable clamp. They also make snap in bushings with fingers that sort of close up the hole to stop rodents from entering.
PLEASE test that romex to confirm which side is hot from the power center. Mine was labeled backwards and I had remembered one of the many inverter prep threads on here someone mentioned not to trust it.
I’m also attaching some pictures of the final install. Maybe I’ll do a new thread so all of this is out there, it was hard for me to find info as well.
Tbourne, in that picture of that box mounted up High: I assume is a auto fail over relay. Where the AC passes through the metal box it really needs at least a snap in plastic bushing to protect the electrical wires from chafing on the metal box. you could also use a cable clamp. They also make snap in bushings with fingers that sort of close up the hole to stop rodents from entering. These bushing are cheep enough you might be able to try to cut one so the loop can be open which may allow you to slide it over the wire that is already in place, than slide it onto box and snap it in place.
2022 Jay Feather 22rb
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