I have searched and am yet to find a drawing or schematics for installing the inverter in a pre-wired rig. I made this which should explain what is needed. I am not sure if the 12V out is only the bedside, TV and outside fridge as mentioned, but switching breakers may limit to only these when on inverter power.
So I just finished doing this, feel free to ask any questions. My particular model ended up being only the bedside outlets unfortunately. I also got a lithium battery and moved that into the pass through next to the inverter. I ended up using a Renogy 2000w inverter with a 30a transfer switch to go between inverter and shore power.
PLEASE test that romex to confirm which side is hot from the power center. Mine was labeled backwards and I had remembered one of the many inverter prep threads on here someone mentioned not to trust it.
Edit, here’s my crude diagram attached, hope it helps. Let me know if you have any specific questions.
I’m also attaching some pictures of the final install. Maybe I’ll do a new thread so all of this is out there, it was hard for me to find info as well.
Thanks so much for this. I have 2022 22rb with 200a solar and charge controller. I know the bedroom outlets and TV are inverted, but not sure about any others. I have a 12v fridge and wonder if that's on the inverter prepped loop. Wish it was as it would make good sense, right?
Just yesterday I checked out the loop in the passthrough and it's funny how you say yours had the sticker on the wrong way because the first thing I thought when I looked at it was 'Knowing all I've read, I bet there's a good chance that sticker is not accurate."
A lot of my questions could/will be answered when the weather gets warmer and I can just get my a$$ in there and do some poking around.
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2022 Jay Feather 22rb
2023 Ford F-150 SuperCrew 2.7L EcoBoost, 4x4, 3.73 axle, #1900 payload #10,100 tow capacity.
Best write-up I've seen yet on the "pre-wired" inverter option. THANK YOU for clarifying.
A few thoughts if you have any insight;
-This seems like a lot of cost/effort for only the bedside outlets (I think this is all I will get in my Micro 171BH as well.)
-Now knowing that it only powers that outlet, would it have made more sense to try and tie every outlet into this system or go much cheaper and have smaller/cheaper inverter with no transfer switch, directly off the battery to plug into for use on occasion? I ask because I have a 1200w inverter sitting around and seems I wouldn't gain much by doing this for it either. I am not trying to run micro or AC unit, just looking to have a little AC power if needed.
I agreed on the original post and all the great info, including the diagrams. I too thought it a lot of work for only bedside outlets.
I think the best, least work option is to have a bank of separate batteries (somewhere...let's say under dining seat) tied to an inverter, then plug your camper into that inverter.
It's what I used to do with my pop-up. Difference with my travel trailer is there's no easy way to get the cord into the camper without leaving something open. I'd considered installing an access hose/cord port, where you'd run the camper power cord in and plug into the inverter.
A power system completely separate of the camper's system.
I'm going to do this, but instead of a bank of batteries, I'm going to use my EcoFlow Pro 3600w electric generator. For this summer I'll use it out of my covered truck bed, but eventually I'd like to figure how/where I could integrate it into the camper...maybe front passthrough, installing an 'access hatch' in the floor.
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2022 Jay Feather 22rb
2023 Ford F-150 SuperCrew 2.7L EcoBoost, 4x4, 3.73 axle, #1900 payload #10,100 tow capacity.
I agreed on the original post and all the great info, including the diagrams. I too thought it a lot of work for only bedside outlets.
I think the best, least work option is to have a bank of separate batteries (somewhere...let's say under dining seat) tied to an inverter, then plug your camper into that inverter.
It's what I used to do with my pop-up. Difference with my travel trailer is there's no easy way to get the cord into the camper without leaving something open. I'd considered installing an access hose/cord port, where you'd run the camper power cord in and plug into the inverter.
A power system completely separate of the camper's system.
I'm going to do this, but instead of a bank of batteries, I'm going to use my EcoFlow Pro 3600w electric generator. For this summer I'll use it out of my covered truck bed, but eventually I'd like to figure how/where I could integrate it into the camper...maybe front passthrough, installing an 'access hatch' in the floor.
Great thinking and I agree.
In the midst of looking into all this "inverter pre-wire" I have had the option of just utilizing an eclectic generator worse case as well. I think I am now there. I have been using a Jackery for very remote camping for years and has severed me well. Integrated into the trailer, it could be very versatile with a lot of options.
I'll add a 12V outlet to charge it off my trailer set-up but also have the option to pull it out and place it anywhere I want with my mobile solar panels as needed. This will give me all the power I would need with more versatility in the system, while not worrying about frying the complicated trailer electronics.
For those who are on the fence, a good 500W electric generator is roughly the same cost (without labor) as adding a inverter/auto transfer switch to your system. Throw labor cost in and you could just buy a 1000W+ electric/solar generator and stand alone panel for the same cost.
Great thinking and I agree.
In the midst of looking into all this "inverter pre-wire" I have had the option of just utilizing an eclectic generator worse case as well. I think I am now there. I have been using a Jackery for very remote camping for years and has severed me well. Integrated into the trailer, it could be very versatile with a lot of options.
I'll add a 12V outlet to charge it off my trailer set-up but also have the option to pull it out and place it anywhere I want with my mobile solar panels as needed. This will give me all the power I would need with more versatility in the system, while not worrying about frying the complicated trailer electronics.
For those who are on the fence, a good 500W electric generator is roughly the same cost (without labor) as adding a inverter/auto transfer switch to your system. Throw labor cost in and you could just buy a 1000W+ electric/solar generator and stand alone panel for the same cost.
Tell me...how you go about adding the 12volt plug to your trailer? I'm curious.
The EcoFlow Pro 3600w is coming down in price all the time. Like I said though, I may not have bought it for myself, but the restaurant bought it...so...it's available to me.
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2022 Jay Feather 22rb
2023 Ford F-150 SuperCrew 2.7L EcoBoost, 4x4, 3.73 axle, #1900 payload #10,100 tow capacity.
Tell me...how you go about adding the 12volt plug to your trailer? I'm curious.
The EcoFlow Pro 3600w is coming down in price all the time. Like I said though, I may not have bought it for myself, but the restaurant bought it...so...it's available to me.