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03-22-2013, 05:58 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,645
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Windows and water leaks - DIY resealing the windows
There's been some discussion lately about water leaks. A possible source of leaks that is easy to forget about is windows. Some time ago, I posted a couple of threads about how I re-sealed my windows. Here's links to those threads for those that might be interested:
http://www.jaycoowners.com/showthrea...ghlight=window
http://www.jaycoowners.com/showthrea...ghlight=window
__________________
There's lots of advice and information in forums... sometimes it is correct. For example, all of my posts are made by a political appointee who got the job as a reward for contributions to my diesel bill.
2011 Jayco 28.5RLS; 2021 Chevy Duramax; Pullrite Superglide Hitch
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03-22-2013, 06:15 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: near Englewood, FL (South of Venice)
Posts: 1,243
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Quote:
I'll put a cap on the top of the window of clear geocel caulking.
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Thanks, RVhiker, those are excellent references, but I'm not clear about the location of the geocel caulk. Does it go on the outside of the frame and the side of the trailer?
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03-22-2013, 09:04 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,645
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OnTheGo
Thanks, RVhiker, those are excellent references, but I'm not clear about the location of the geocel caulk. Does it go on the outside of the frame and the side of the trailer?
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Right, where the edge of the window frame meets the side of the trailer. You can use the clear or white Geocel Proflex caulking. Poke a small hole in the end of the plastic nozzle on the caulking tube. Apply a small bead and smooth it with your finger. Have your finger wet with a soap and water solution and the caulking bead will be easier to smooth out. The idea is to put a cap of caulk on the top of the window, and around the top corners and down an inch or two on the side. You can use mineral spirits on a rag to clean up the window frame where caulk may have been smeared.
__________________
There's lots of advice and information in forums... sometimes it is correct. For example, all of my posts are made by a political appointee who got the job as a reward for contributions to my diesel bill.
2011 Jayco 28.5RLS; 2021 Chevy Duramax; Pullrite Superglide Hitch
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03-23-2013, 10:46 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 414
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To re-seal RV windows on my 2006 Jayco, I simply followed the instructions within:
Notes:
A- I removed the factory window "rubber foam" (located behind the window's lip) and replaced within butyl tape (available at RV parts stores)
B - Instead of silicone bead on window's outer upper window lip, I used RVProflex product (also available at many RV parts stores) instead.
C - As seen in the video, very easy 2 person DIY task. Especially if using a cordless screw driver.
Clean, simple and easy. Especially doing 2 x windows each weekend.
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03-23-2013, 12:59 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 406
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Yep, it's a really easy project, just did this a while back:
http://www.jaycoowners.com/showthrea...ht=x17z+window
__________________
2013 Starcraft Travel Star 229TB
2011 Jayco X17Z(traded in)
2010 Jayco Jay Series 1207(traded for the 17Z)
2011 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD Z71 CC 6.0L/3.73
ITBC
Reese "Pro Series" 800lb Trunnion WDH w/sway control
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03-23-2013, 02:49 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Southern Indiana
Posts: 3,209
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So what your saying, even with a fiberglass sided trailer [like mine] and the seal seems tight to the exterior wall, run a bead of Proflex around the top and down the sides of the window as an extra insurance? There's not much to seal there as the rubber window seal tapers down to about 1/16th of an inch., or maybe I'm missing something [which usually happens]. My trailer is only a year old and I want to do everything possible to ensure its durability. Terry
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03-23-2013, 04:23 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 406
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TCNASHVILLE
So what your saying, even with a fiberglass sided trailer [like mine] and the seal seems tight to the exterior wall, run a bead of Proflex around the top and down the sides of the window as an extra insurance? There's not much to seal there as the rubber window seal tapers down to about 1/16th of an inch., or maybe I'm missing something [which usually happens]. My trailer is only a year old and I want to do everything possible to ensure its durability. Terry
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I would, fairly easy way to make sure they don't leak.
__________________
2013 Starcraft Travel Star 229TB
2011 Jayco X17Z(traded in)
2010 Jayco Jay Series 1207(traded for the 17Z)
2011 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD Z71 CC 6.0L/3.73
ITBC
Reese "Pro Series" 800lb Trunnion WDH w/sway control
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03-23-2013, 06:34 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Southern Ontario, Canada
Posts: 106
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Any one know where to buy Geocel Proflex caulking in Canada, especially southern Ontario? Thanks.
__________________
2012 Eagle Lite 298RLDS
On Permanent site at Gillies Lake, Bruce Peninsula
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03-23-2013, 09:09 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 414
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LilBigfoot
Any one know where to buy Geocel Proflex caulking in Canada, especially southern Ontario? Thanks.
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Visit many RV dealer parts stores. This http://www.viaretailparts.com/schrec...007123_300.jpg item (in white or clear versions) is most often standard stock "on shelf" item….
If wondering, not available at Canadian Tire, Wall-Mart / K-Mart stores. Only available at RV Dealer "parts stores".
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05-14-2013, 02:08 PM
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#10
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Turner Valley, Alberta
Posts: 91
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When resealing windows did you guys place the butyl on the trailer wall (like in the video) or on the window itself?
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05-27-2013, 06:57 PM
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#11
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Turner Valley, Alberta
Posts: 91
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I've been looking into resealing my 2012 jayco 5th wheel windows after reading about how jayco is using foam sealant in the windows.
After checking around I found a foam sealant that supposedly out "performs" butyl tape. Any chance that this is what jayco uses and replacing what's sealing my windows with butyl could be a step back?
http://www.emseal.com/Products/Specialty/MST/MST.htm
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05-27-2013, 07:13 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,645
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The MST sealant foam looks like an interesting product. With a hard sided trailer, there is virtually no space between the window flange and the side of the trailer. Butyl tape fills it really well and is a proven product. That MST foam might be just the thing for sealing windows in aluminum sided trailers, though.
The major problem I found in how Jayco installed windows in my trailer was not the sealant, but the fact that the windows were not installed in the center of the cutout hole which made the sealing width between the flange and the side of the trailer very small. In many cases, as small as one eighth of an inch and in a few cases almost nothing -- ie, there was almost a crack. Leaving the windows sealed as is means that the centering problem won't be fixed.
If you do leave the windows as is, I'd encourage you to caulk the top edge and completely around he top curved corners and down the side a couple of inches. Even Jayco recommends the "cap" of caulk.
To answer a previous question, when I resealed my windows I applied the butyl to the flange of the window.
__________________
There's lots of advice and information in forums... sometimes it is correct. For example, all of my posts are made by a political appointee who got the job as a reward for contributions to my diesel bill.
2011 Jayco 28.5RLS; 2021 Chevy Duramax; Pullrite Superglide Hitch
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05-27-2013, 07:20 PM
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#13
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Turner Valley, Alberta
Posts: 91
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Thanks rvhiker. Yeah I kind of forgot about the centering problem, wish there was a way I could check w/o pulling them off. For now I am definitely going to cap the top of the windows.
There is a link talking specifically about rv's. http://www.emseal.com/Products/Specialty/RV/RVS.htm
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05-27-2013, 07:28 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,645
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Maybe you'd want to remove one of the smaller windows to check on how Jayco did. Maybe they just had a bad day when the crew installed my windows (though I doubt that's the explanation). Good luck whatever you decide.
__________________
There's lots of advice and information in forums... sometimes it is correct. For example, all of my posts are made by a political appointee who got the job as a reward for contributions to my diesel bill.
2011 Jayco 28.5RLS; 2021 Chevy Duramax; Pullrite Superglide Hitch
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05-27-2013, 07:50 PM
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#15
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Turner Valley, Alberta
Posts: 91
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Yeah I might go that route for starters. First though I need to locate some butyl tape, all the rv dealer near me had was putty tape and i've heard that it dries out over time so i'll keep hunting down butyl.
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05-28-2013, 08:43 AM
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#16
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Turner Valley, Alberta
Posts: 91
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I located some butyl tape but it's 3/32, would that work or is it going to be touch to thin?
Also RVhiker did you do any shimming on the sides of the windows to help keep them centered or will the new butyl do that job good enough.
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05-28-2013, 12:29 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,645
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That butyl tape may "officially" be one eighth inch; on the roll it kind of gets smashed around. I expect it will be thick enough; if not, just smash another layer of the butyl down on top of the first layer. If you get a good "ooze" at the seam when you re-install the window, you know you had enough butyl. Be sure to mark the opening some how so that when you re-install the window, you can get it better centered than Jayco. I used short pieces of electrical tape, and placed the tape one eighth beyond where I wanted the window edge to go so that the tape would not get caught between the window and the side of the trailer.
I shimmed sides and bottom and just used some cedar shims I bought at the lumber yard. However, I really think that with the butyl's stickiness and the tightness of the flange against the window that the window would not move; but better safe than sorry. In fact, originally I did not plan to use shims and then got worried about the window sliding down so I removed the inside window ring and inserted the shims; the butyl held the windows quite steady. That may be the way to do it, anyway; I'm not sure how the shims can be put in as the window is being installed - for me, it would be just too much stuff to hold at the right place all at the same time.
__________________
There's lots of advice and information in forums... sometimes it is correct. For example, all of my posts are made by a political appointee who got the job as a reward for contributions to my diesel bill.
2011 Jayco 28.5RLS; 2021 Chevy Duramax; Pullrite Superglide Hitch
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05-28-2013, 02:47 PM
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#18
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Turner Valley, Alberta
Posts: 91
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Thanks!
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07-03-2013, 08:38 AM
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#19
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Turner Valley, Alberta
Posts: 91
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Well we've just finished re-sealing the windows on our 23.5' HT 5th wheel, using butyl tape.
I can only say that I'm so glad I went ahead and did this as I can't imagine the foam seal that Jayco used could have lasted very long.
Like everyone on here said it wasn't very difficult, quite easy actually. When we took out the first window my wife said they don't even have a seal in this one, that alone should be an indicator of just how thin the seal they used compressed to. My thinking is that they use the foam seal mainly because it would be just a lot quicker to apply not because it could possibly be better, their application by the way left a lot to be desired as it wasn't applied very evenly at all.
Thanks again to everyone in this thread for the tips and ideas!
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