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Old 10-09-2015, 09:55 AM   #11
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Mine do the same thing. I've been tempted to get them tack welded but I usually beat them back in place with the hitch bar. As Norther Wis. said, do not over tighten the bracket nuts...and replace the nylock nuts if they are backing off.
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Old 10-09-2015, 10:32 AM   #12
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To keep from overtightening just get some 1/2" conduit cut to the same width as the tongue material. Use them as a spacer between the brackets. You can then tighten the brackets down pretty snug and they won't bow. Then either tack weld or bolt them. They will be nice and straight and will never move.
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Old 10-09-2015, 11:54 AM   #13
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You guys maybe using the wrong Link plates. When you order the Equalizer, you need to order the link plates specific to the Jayco BAL frame.

See this post I made a while back >> https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f3...tml#post284677

I want to mention that I'm still using the 4" plates on my HTT with a piece of hardwood as a spacer to fill the gap, and that hasn't moved in 2 years of towing all around the Country. If the plates wiggle even a bit, your done and they will move. BTW, the spacer is mentioned in the setup documentation, albeit you need to look for it.

Hope this helps.
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Old 10-16-2015, 11:11 PM   #14
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We returned from Gatlinburg this afternoon, about 340 miles one way. We stopped in London KY to gas up and I noticed during my normal walk-around that the link plates-l bracket combo had shifted considerably in the 160 or so miles that we had traveled. There was roughly 1.5 to 2" difference between the top and bottom of the bracket. I found a parking lot and fixed the bracket before proceeding on the trip home. I told my wife during this first leg that something just didn't feel right, and I am guessing that was the cause. The combo felt much tighter after fixing that bracket. I recall seeing a post someplace in which a shim was used with a groove cut into it for the link plate bolts to sit in. This is something that I plan to look onto to see if it will tighten things up enough to prevent the link plates from rocking. There isn't much open space(<1/8") there but figure anything that can be done to tighten things up can't hurt at this point. If that still doesn't help them the plates will be tack welded or the hitch replaced. I checked the torque on the bolts before we left TN. The bolts on this particular bracket were surprisingly loose when I went to fix it. Think I will replace the lock washers as well to see if it will help prevent them from loosening up so much. I can understand some routine maintenance type things needing to be done like greasing occasionally, but the need to disassemble and correct so often is getting ridiculous.
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Old 10-17-2015, 06:38 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jenoble99 View Post
There isn't much open space(<1/8") there
Should be 3/8". Do worry about cutting notches, I just used a piece of hardwood cut to match the width of the frame so that when I tighten down the brackets, they get good and snug without bending the brackets.

As mentioned, I have the proper brackets, but the wood spacer hasn't moved in two seasons and there is no evidence of them shifting even a bit.

It's a good habit to constantly check on things. I do a walk around every time I stop.
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Old 10-17-2015, 08:01 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dagwood View Post
Should be 3/8". Do worry about cutting notches, I just used a piece of hardwood cut to match the width of the frame so that when I tighten down the brackets, they get good and snug without bending the brackets.



As mentioned, I have the proper brackets, but the wood spacer hasn't moved in two seasons and there is no evidence of them shifting even a bit.



It's a good habit to constantly check on things. I do a walk around every time I stop.

I took a look at it today as I was waiting on the WH to drain. There isn't much of a gap at all, roughly 1/8" or just a bit over. It definitely isn't 3/8" though. Enough of a gap to allow movement, that's for sure.
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Old 10-18-2015, 01:55 PM   #17
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I just returned from the hardware store where I purchased half inch bolts to run through the frame as well as new lock washers for the link plate bolts. Now I just have to get brave enough to drill a half inch hole through the A-frame. It's funny that when I helped my BIL install the hitch on their camper I had no issues with drilling the holes for the ball mount plate for the friction bar sway control. Different when it's your own stuff.
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Old 10-25-2015, 08:13 PM   #18
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I think I have this issue resolved. I had removed the link plate assembly that kept moving. The bolt on the bottom I had never fully taken apart as I usually just took the top bolt out and slid the bracket down for repainting and such. I found when I removed the nut on the bottom bolt it seemed to be bound up. Even after being loosened from the bracket and removed from the a frame it still took a bit of effort with a breaker bar to get this nut removed. The threads on the bolt were damaged so I used a die to repair. When I tried to put the nut on again it was still difficult to put on. There was a burr on the threads of the nut that I suspect was causing the torque spec to be reached before it was snug to the link plate. I replaced the bolt, nut, and lock washer. Towing to and from our weekend destination the combo was way better than it ever has been. No wiggles, barely affected by passing trucks, and the gusty winds on the trip home were hardly noticeable. The bracket barely moved after we returned home. It moved ever so slightly, but I suspect it was just adjusting to the slight angle of the bar. I'm thinking issue resolved for a couple of bucks.
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