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Old 05-27-2016, 08:14 AM   #31
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snip.....This is a prime example of why it's a good idea to go to the scale so you know for sure what you have.
X2

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Old 05-27-2016, 08:59 AM   #32
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Go to a specialty hardware store and buy the grade 8 washers. They are gold in colour and match the factory washers exactly so I think that's what they use to begin with. Those washers have a tremendous amount of compression on them and I have heard of cheaper, softer metals compressing. I am running 7 washers in my 10K Equalizer hitch head. The max allowed is 8.
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Old 05-27-2016, 09:25 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by ExxWhy View Post
I ran through the scales yesterday and things weren't quite what I expected.

Truck alone (Excursion)

3480 Front
3920 Rear

NO WD

2780 Front
6140 Rear
7160 Trailer

With WD as I set it with the tape measure

3140 Front
5620 Rear
7300 Trailer

And a second pass through with the bars as tight as I dare.

3320 Front
5380 Rear
7380 Trailer


Shocked to find out the tongue weight is 1500 lbs with an 8600 lb trailer! I'd like to get that a bit lower, have to think of some creative packing. Might just move the batteries to the rear.

I need to spend some $$$. Receiver is rated for 1250. The Equalizer is a 1200 lb model. Still researching my options.

Good news is it tows great even with the initial setup. I thought it felt a little light in the steering after driving it for longer than my original 10 minute test drive and the scale proved that out.

This is a prime example of why it's a good idea to go to the scale so you know for sure what you have.
Those are certainly some eye opening results!

Does Ford specify returning 100% of the weight back to the front axle? Just curious...

I was surprised to see how much your trailer unloaded the front axle without WDH! A couple hundred pounds I could see, but 700 lbs seems excessive!
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Old 05-27-2016, 10:08 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ExxWhy View Post
I ran through the scales yesterday and things weren't quite what I expected.

Truck alone (Excursion)

3480 Front
3920 Rear

NO WD

2780 Front
6140 Rear
7160 Trailer

With WD as I set it with the tape measure

3140 Front
5620 Rear
7300 Trailer

And a second pass through with the bars as tight as I dare.

3320 Front
5380 Rear
7380 Trailer


Shocked to find out the tongue weight is 1500 lbs with an 8600 lb trailer! I'd like to get that a bit lower, have to think of some creative packing. Might just move the batteries to the rear.

I need to spend some $$$. Receiver is rated for 1250. The Equalizer is a 1200 lb model. Still researching my options.

Good news is it tows great even with the initial setup. I thought it felt a little light in the steering after driving it for longer than my original 10 minute test drive and the scale proved that out.

This is a prime example of why it's a good idea to go to the scale so you know for sure what you have.
Truck rear axle 3920 with no trailer connected. Truck rear axle 6140 with trailer connected and no WDH. Doesn't that make the tongue weight 2220? 6140 minus 3920 equals 2220. Am I doing the math wrong?
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Old 05-27-2016, 10:27 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by Hohenwald48 View Post
Truck rear axle 3920 with no trailer connected. Truck rear axle 6140 with trailer connected and no WDH. Doesn't that make the tongue weight 2220? 6140 minus 3920 equals 2220. Am I doing the math wrong?
Your math is correct, but that doesn't take into account the weight of the truck that has shifted to the rear. Truck weighs 7400 by itself. With the trailer, there is 8920 sitting on the truck wheels. 8920-7400 = 1520
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Old 05-27-2016, 10:37 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by Camper_bob View Post
Those are certainly some eye opening results!

Does Ford specify returning 100% of the weight back to the front axle? Just curious...

I was surprised to see how much your trailer unloaded the front axle without WDH! A couple hundred pounds I could see, but 700 lbs seems excessive!
As best I can find from reading various internet sources, older than 2010 Fords say get as close to 100% as you can. I'd like to get that extra 100 lbs eventually. It feels very stable as is, 2 fingers on the wheel.

700 surprised me. I was even wondering if the exact spot on the scale would change it, but I doubt it. The scales need to be able to read correctly no matter where the load is on the scale. I guess the 137" wheelbase has something to do with it.

Hopefully the OP will be back with some numbers for his thread. Didn't mean to hijack.
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Old 05-27-2016, 03:50 PM   #37
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Classic Newbie Question Re Windows

Hi Folks,

Traveling with guests for the first time soon.

Our Greyhawk cab is very comfortable while driving, but is it okay to drive with windows open in the living space, like the dinette window?

We do have a covered Fantastic Fan that I understand we can leave open and run while underway, and I also understand we can run AC with generator while on the road. Just looking for a little air flow in the living area while on back roads.

Can't imagine these angled windows would be a good thing to open on the highway.

Thanks!
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Old 05-28-2016, 04:26 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ExxWhy View Post
.

Hopefully the OP will be back with some numbers for his thread. Didn't mean to hijack.

Ha, hijack all you want, it dosnt bother me a bit . Its information that all helps.

Unfortunately i havnt got weighed yet.

But, while you could stand to get some more weight on your front axle (by the numbers), i say if it tows good then so be it. I mean, what is the end result? For the trailer to tow good, or the numbers to be spot on?

It does look like you are overweighting your hitch, though.
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Old 05-28-2016, 09:17 PM   #39
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Hi all, If you don't mind just a quick question. I have been running my WD for a while, pulls great but I would like to get the front down slightly. What is the best way to make a minimal adjustment to bring the front down? I know it seems like a basic question but after several months and adjustments and getting it to a place where it feels almost perfect I do not want to throw it way off. I appreciate the help.
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Old 05-28-2016, 09:38 PM   #40
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Hi all, If you don't mind just a quick question. I have been running my WD for a while, pulls great but I would like to get the front down slightly. What is the best way to make a minimal adjustment to bring the front down? I know it seems like a basic question but after several months and adjustments and getting it to a place where it feels almost perfect I do not want to throw it way off. I appreciate the help.

Just make sure you drop the hooks on the trailer frame the same amount as the hitch head and nothing will change as far as weight distribution goes.
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