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Old 06-30-2017, 06:16 PM   #21
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This is what has happened so far. I am not a carpenter, so please forgive as it does not look good.

1) Build up the box for batteries.







2) Loaded batteries, connected.


3) This is how it looks with the 2 propane tanks moved forward.


4) Also upgraded an electric tongue jack.




Will add some switches and battery monitor in a later time. However, it's now loaded with 660ah battery bank. Can't wait to try it out at camp.
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Old 08-11-2017, 12:34 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Mustang65 View Post
Yes, when the TT is plugged into shore-power it charges the batteries. The TV will supply a small amount of current back to the TT batteries, it is limited in the Amps it can give the batteries due to the small gauge wire in the truck to the rear plug.

Not sure as to what you are asking about "What is charging current?", do you mean what will the amount of current be as in 2 amps 20 amps or an easy definition of what Charging Current is?

Don
Any idea where is the power panel and (the built-in charger) located? Should that be closed to the fuses box? The manual didn't say it well.

Anyone familiar with the Hybrid Trailer, please advise. I plan to install the inverter to power up the 110v socket with the battery for dry-camping. Thanks.
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Old 08-11-2017, 10:57 AM   #23
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Decade - box looks great - don't doubt your carpentry skills. I'm a little concern about the electrical connections on the 'L' bracket. Its hard to see in the picture but it looks like you used a bolt thru the 'L' bracket to make a main power point connection. Even thou the brackets are screwed into wood (non conductive) - there maybe a possible short if the wood gets wet. If I were you I would use a terminal block - something like this one to insolate the connections.


https://www.racerpartswholesale.com/...yABEgLjMvD_BwE
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Old 08-11-2017, 11:05 AM   #24
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B is the best choice for parasitic cable loss. There is a really good post here somewhere where the math is explained. Might be in the Solar group. B provides the most even charging and drain on the batteries, although as Mustang points out, running to a common connection point is even better.
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Old 08-11-2017, 11:28 AM   #25
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If I was doing this for four 6V batteries i would want them next to the trailer front. This would give more frame support for extending the battery box out on both ends of the trailer trailer frame.. The down side of this of course your sloping front may not allow for opening the battery box. TORKLIFT has the slide off battery box lids verses the ones that are hinged to go up...

Have no idea what would be involved with moving the propane tanks on your trailer...

Just a thought on my part...

My three batteries have just started to go bad on me last season so I will be using the same battery guide angles to mount a battery box for 4 each of the 6VDC GC2 batteries across the trailer tongue of my trailer setup...

You can see the rails here in this photo...

Roy's image

This is what my TORKLIFT battery box with the slide off lid is going to look like... This box is some 58 " long and will come out even with the second vertical post on the front deck on each side... I am pretty much finished with my box buildup waiting now on finding GC2 batteries... Always a money thing here hehe...

Google Image

Roy Ken
Just curious how old are your batteries. We are just finishing are second year! Thanks
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Old 08-11-2017, 12:15 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Macaw View Post
Decade - box looks great - don't doubt your carpentry skills. I'm a little concern about the electrical connections on the 'L' bracket. Its hard to see in the picture but it looks like you used a bolt thru the 'L' bracket to make a main power point connection. Even thou the brackets are screwed into wood (non conductive) - there maybe a possible short if the wood gets wet. If I were you I would use a terminal block - something like this one to insolate the connections.


https://www.racerpartswholesale.com/...yABEgLjMvD_BwE
Good advise. I will look for that. Thanks.
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