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Old 03-19-2012, 11:46 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Quahog View Post
I just ordered one of these to test out in our TT. Hope it works well because it would make life so much easier (not to mention easier on the pocketbook!) until we can get our solar power configured and running!

Thanks for the tip!

Kim
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Old 03-20-2012, 12:24 AM   #12
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It looks like my seller doesn't have them anymore. But what I did was buy a few units off e-bay from China. At about $5 shipped I played around with them and decided what I liked. Then did a bulk order to replace all the bulbs. I did not replace the fixtures.

Here is the one I settled on, but it doesn't look like it is available anymore.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI...ht_2610wt_1139
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Old 03-20-2012, 08:52 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by PhxKim View Post
I just ordered one of these to test out in our TT. Hope it works well because it would make life so much easier (not to mention easier on the pocketbook!) until we can get our solar power configured and running!

Thanks for the tip!

Kim
Let me know how it works out Kim. I assume you have the wedge type T10 bulbs?

Thanks!
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Old 03-20-2012, 10:17 AM   #14
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You'll notice they come with three different connectors. Kim, if you find they work for you, you can also buy them in a 10-pack and save a couple of $.
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Old 03-24-2012, 09:16 PM   #15
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I have a 17 replaced all my bulbs with led wedge bulbs. We run totally on solar. The bulbs are about $15.00 a piece. Worth it for the power saving and you will never need to replace it again.We bought the bulbs from a little shop in Sarnia Ontario. They an get you almost any thing in any quantity
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Old 03-24-2012, 09:52 PM   #16
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http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...nection-/56015

this is the same replacement bulb as I bought but a little more expensive. I you like I could find out where my guy gets them from and post it. The I find the light as bright as the original but actually easier on the eyes
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Old 03-25-2012, 02:45 AM   #17
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You'll notice they come with three different connectors. Kim, if you find they work for you, you can also buy them in a 10-pack and save a couple of $.
Yes, we will! Thanks!

Kim

Posted from a glorious camp in AZ
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Old 03-25-2012, 02:47 AM   #18
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Let me know how it works out Kim. I assume you have the wedge type T10 bulbs?

Thanks!
Oh, you're so cute! I have no idea! It's whatever came standard in the X18D. By Command. 900 series.

I will post results in a couple of weeks when we receive the bulb.

Kim
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Old 03-25-2012, 07:29 AM   #19
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I have replaced all of my 921 bulbs with LED stick-on boards. The first round I went with Command Electronics and LED TRAILERLIGHTS which really duplicated the 921 BULBs just fine. Plenty of light and had the WARM WHITE color. After doing the reseacrh and all it turns out you need to get at least something in the 400 LUMENSrange and the color should be WARM WHITE.

I didnt have to chage out any of the light fixtures as these LED boards just stick up inside the fixtures with doublesided sticky tape. The Command Electronic version board had the proper adpter cable to plug into the 921 socket in the fixture. The LEDTRAILER lights were for the outside lights on my my trailer. The change-over to LED lights will give you an 80% savings of power over the incandescent automotive bulb lights. They also dont have anywhere the heat generated as the incandescent light do. My fixtures were starting to turn brown from using the automotive type hot bulbs.

I thought I was good to go until our first camping off the power grid amd then I noticed I had alot of Radio Frequency Interference (RFI) with the HDTV, the NOAH WX Radio, and all of my radio scanners and Ham radio units that operated in the VHF/UHF frequency band. This was enhanced more camping off the power grid as we was trying to use the OTA crank-up BATWING antenna HDTV. Doing so it would completely BLANK the HDTV screen and eventually go to the dreaded blue screen that says NO SIGNAL. As soon as you turn off the LED lights the HDTV would jump back to life with perfect picture.

This being what I go camping for with all my radios sure was a big surprise to be picking up the RFI signals from the LED lights. No one warmed me of this haha... Working with a bunch of the RV.net Ham Radio guys we determined the expensive LED SMD boards that had regulator chips on their boards was the problem area. They use a BUCK BOOST type regulation circuit on the boards to allow the input DC voltage to have a range of 8VDC to 30Vdc and still operate their LED board within specs. The BUCK BOOST regulator is what generates the RFI signals. It is within FCC specs but nevertheless it still radiated enough engery to blank out my radio/tv units that operated in the vhf/uhf frequency bands..

The fix turns out to get a LED SMD board that does not incorporate the on-board regulator chip circuit. It turned out Ebay was lisiting a real cheap LED board from China for $4.99 each that did not incude the regulator chip and I ordered one of those to see how it would do. It worked just fine with all my radios and HDTV. The boards were alot smaller but still was as bright as the high dollar SMD boards.

The ebay-china LED board has a vdc voltage spec of 12VDC-14VDC which is border line for the smart-mode charging DC Voltage of 14.4VDC but my LED boards do just fine with that. I have had mine in use now for around two years and only have one three LED group out of the 36 LEDs on the board that are now off. When it gets alot worse I will just replace the $4.99 board with a new one. price is sure right...

To save face with already having the other LEDs on hand I modified my DUAL light fixture to have a OFF-ONE-BOTH three way switch so I could switch in the non-regulated LED board by itself when camping off the power grid and then use BOTH sides when camping at a camp site on the power grid. I have a non-regulated SMD board in one side and the regulated SMD board in the other side of the dual fixture. If I get the RFI too bad to operate the radios then I can always switch back to the ONE position and still have lights on inside the trailer.

ALot of guys you will talk with says they dont have the problem but I dont think they realize the problem is there or they arent using sensitive radio equipment etc... The HDTV doesnt blank off when using the CABLE TV jack at the camp sites.

The bottom line on any of the LED purchases is to only order ONE or TWO not the whole batch you need and try them out and see if they are what you want. The different companies dont always tell you what the whole spec is. I lost about $150 by buying a whole replacement bunch and then had to convert those to yet a different LED board to be able to operate my radio equipment.
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Old 03-25-2012, 07:53 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoyBraddy View Post
I have replaced all of my 921 bulbs with LED stick-on boards. The first round I went with Command Electronics and LED TRAILERLIGHTS which really duplicated the 921 BULBs just fine. Plenty of light and had the WARM WHITE color. After doing the reseacrh and all it turns out you need to get at least something in the 400 LUMENSrange and the color should be WARM WHITE.

I didnt have to chage out any of the light fixtures as these LED boards just stick up inside the fixtures with doublesided sticky tape. The Command Electronic version board had the proper adpter cable to plug into the 921 socket in the fixture. The LEDTRAILER lights were for the outside lights on my my trailer. The change-over to LED lights will give you an 80% savings of power over the incandescent automotive bulb lights. They also dont have anywhere the heat generated as the incandescent light do. My fixtures were starting to turn brown from using the automotive type hot bulbs.

I thought I was good to go until our first camping off the power grid amd then I noticed I had alot of Radio Frequency Interference (RFI) with the HDTV, the NOAH WX Radio, and all of my radio scanners and Ham radio units that operated in the VHF/UHF frequency band. This was enhanced more camping off the power grid as we was trying to use the OTA crank-up BATWING antenna HDTV. Doing so it would completely BLANK the HDTV screen and eventually go to the dreaded blue screen that says NO SIGNAL. As soon as you turn off the LED lights the HDTV would jump back to life with perfect picture.

This being what I go camping for with all my radios sure was a big surprise to be picking up the RFI signals from the LED lights. No one warmed me of this haha... Working with a bunch of the RV.net Ham Radio guys we determined the expensive LED SMD boards that had regulator chips on their boards was the problem area. They use a BUCK BOOST type regulation circuit on the boards to allow the input DC voltage to have a range of 8VDC to 30Vdc and still operate their LED board within specs. The BUCK BOOST regulator is what generates the RFI signals. It is within FCC specs but nevertheless it still radiated enough engery to blank out my radio/tv units that operated in the vhf/uhf frequency bands..

The fix turns out to get a LED SMD board that does not incorporate the on-board regulator chip circuit. It turned out Ebay was lisiting a real cheap LED board from China for $4.99 each that did not incude the regulator chip and I ordered one of those to see how it would do. It worked just fine with all my radios and HDTV. The boards were alot smaller but still was as bright as the high dollar SMD boards.

The ebay-china LED board has a vdc voltage spec of 12VDC-14VDC which is border line for the smart-mode charging DC Voltage of 14.4VDC but my LED boards do just fine with that. I have had mine in use now for around two years and only have one three LED group out of the 36 LEDs on the board that are now off. When it gets alot worse I will just replace the $4.99 board with a new one. price is sure right...

To save face with already having the other LEDs on hand I modified my DUAL light fixture to have a OFF-ONE-BOTH three way switch so I could switch in the non-regulated LED board by itself when camping off the power grid and then use BOTH sides when camping at a camp site on the power grid. I have a non-regulated SMD board in one side and the regulated SMD board in the other side of the dual fixture. If I get the RFI too bad to operate the radios then I can always switch back to the ONE position and still have lights on inside the trailer.

ALot of guys you will talk with says they dont have the problem but I dont think they realize the problem is there or they arent using sensitive radio equipment etc... The HDTV doesnt blank off when using the CABLE TV jack at the camp sites.

The bottom line on any of the LED purchases is to only order ONE or TWO not the whole batch you need and try them out and see if they are what you want. The different companies dont always tell you what the whole spec is. I lost about $150 by buying a whole replacement bunch and then had to convert those to yet a different LED board to be able to operate my radio equipment.
Do you want to sell rour old ones?
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