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Old 10-15-2013, 01:24 PM   #11
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I have an accumulator right after my water pump and it does it on the pump or city water, makes no differance..
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Old 10-15-2013, 01:39 PM   #12
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Not trying to be funny here but it's been my experience that loud screams coming from the bathroom have just always been part of camping.
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Old 10-15-2013, 03:32 PM   #13
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Ours has the same issue. I wonder if adding a thermostat to the water heater would help this?
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Old 10-16-2013, 03:10 PM   #14
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Not to repeat....but for those of you that are experiencing this. Try the method that I wrote up...It seems to have to do with both the expansion of the water being heated and the washers in the valves also expanding. If you first open the cold valve fully, switch to the shower head and then open the hot until the temp is comfortable, at least in my case, the issue is almost completely gone. The hot valve is sufficiently open to avoid the washer swell and the cold valve all open tends to equalize the expanding water from the heater. Just saying...let me know if this works for you.
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Old 10-16-2013, 10:05 PM   #15
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Our shower does the same thing. I have tried lots of different combinations and none seem to make any difference with our shower.
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Old 10-16-2013, 11:10 PM   #16
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How big is the accumulator? Is it the small accumulator or large one?
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Old 10-17-2013, 09:13 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msturtz View Post
How big is the accumulator? Is it the small accumulator or large one?
Mine is small. Almost not worth it. Had it from our Hybrid when the water pump was under our bed to limit the water pump running at night if somebody went to the bathroom. Figured I would transfer it to our Jayco and did that before we even used it. But like I said, we still have to hot water problem. I am not buying the swelling gasket washer theory. If they swell wouldnt it block hot water flow?
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Old 10-17-2013, 09:53 AM   #18
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I had the same one on my JayFlight 29BHS, it helped but not a lot. I had a 2 gallon one installed in my Greyhawk to cope with the constant problems with the tankless water heater. The dealer says that the problem is fixed. They tested it and since the larger accumulator has been installed there is no pulsation from the pump at all and the pump only intermittently runs. According to the dealer the pump runs fills the tank and then shuts off when the pressure in the tank drops below the pump set point the pump kicks on and fills the tank again. The net effect of this is smooth water pressure to the tankless water heater and no scalding or cold water. I did have an issue with my tank heater on my BHS if the tank had residual air at the top of it from draining the tank. This can cause very weird problems and can be difficult to troubleshoot. The simplest test for this condition is to turn off the water tank and switch over to city water (the pump doesn't have enough consistent pressure to accomplish this task). Open all hot water taps in the coach - including and especially the tub if available - leave all cold water taps closed. Listen for any air escaping from the plumbing. If you detect any air that means it was likely trapped in the tank. It is even better if you can get the tank at such an angle that the top exit of the tank is slightly elevated. As soon as you don't hear any air escaping let the water run for a minute or two then shut off. Repeat with the cold side. Turn on the hot water heater on propane and look at the flame if the flame is mostly blue it is correctly set if it is yellow or pulsing then you likely have something blocking the burner tube and exhaust. If you have access to compressed air blow out the exhaust tube from the bottom with the water heater off. Test again for the correct flame. Very slight adjustments of the air fuel mixture can make a large difference. I don't know if any of this will help people on this thread but this is what I did for the tank heater in my JayFlight 29BHS and it worked.
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