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Old 10-03-2020, 01:21 PM   #1
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Dura Max diesel

Does anyone have experience with removing the fuel filter body on the DuraMax diesel? I can't even see the head of the second machine bolt.
Thanks
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Old 10-03-2020, 02:28 PM   #2
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Dur Max F/F

Nope, but you might stop by a Chev Dealer and ask a Mech.
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Old 10-03-2020, 02:47 PM   #3
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Check around in here. This is the go-to place for information on Duramax. https://www.dieselplace.com/forums/



It is laid out by engine so you need to know which engine you have. Once you are in there if you cannot locate what you need by using the search, then ask. Don't ask unless you have searched our you will be sent to the search section


And as I recall, from removing and rebuilding my 04 it is simply two bolts but check there or just Google it there are many threads on that topic.
Something as simple as rebuild LBZ Filter head will get you videos.
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Old 10-03-2020, 06:17 PM   #4
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The rig is a 2009 Topkick Kodiak. All of the searches I have seen is for the pickup truck version. Here the filter is on the passenger side and the 2 bolts are very accessible. The Kodiak has the filter on the drivers side. The rear bolt is the one in question. I cannot feel or see this bolt. HELP
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Old 10-03-2020, 06:26 PM   #5
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The rig is a 2009 Topkick Kodiak. All of the searches I have seen is for the pickup truck version. Here the filter is on the passenger side and the 2 bolts are very accessible. The Kodiak has the filter on the drivers side. The rear bolt is the one in question. I cannot feel or see this bolt. HELP
There is a Medium Duty forum on DIESEL PLACE.. Have you checked to see if it is accessible from under the dash?

Also join Supercrvgroup.com and ask over there. Lots of KODIAK/TOPKICK owners on that site who may have removed it.
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Old 10-04-2020, 07:21 AM   #6
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I have a kodiac with the same filter location. If it was not in storage I'd take a look for you. Why do you want to remove the filter mtg bracket?
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Old 10-04-2020, 07:50 AM   #7
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I work at a GM Dealer, i can send you the instructions, give me more info C4,5,6?? 6.6 i presume?
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Old 10-04-2020, 08:09 AM   #8
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The last four roadtrips I have lost power and one time the engine died completely. A bad feeling to lose confidence in your rig. Also, rather dangerous to be cruising at 30 miles per hour on an interstate or sitting on the shoulder. To get her back up and running I have had to bleed the system. I have read where the fuel filter housing has 0-rings that go bad. I bought a new filter body and will rebuild the old one for a spare. The engine is the 6.6 Isuzu.
Thanks all
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Old 10-04-2020, 09:08 AM   #9
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The last four roadtrips I have lost power and one time the engine died completely. A bad feeling to lose confidence in your rig. Also, rather dangerous to be cruising at 30 miles per hour on an interstate or sitting on the shoulder. To get her back up and running I have had to bleed the system. I have read where the fuel filter housing has 0-rings that go bad. I bought a new filter body and will rebuild the old one for a spare. The engine is the 6.6 Isuzu.
Thanks all

They are almost all 6.6 Isuzu. That is what a Duramax is. It appears that you have some help now but the URL that I gave you has ALL of the Duramax engines listed and as I said, if you search that web site you will find yours. I did. It is listed under "other" Duramax.



You are correct the O rings go bad and leak. But as with most all Duramax the CP3 is also a weak point and a lift pump is a benefit in most all cases. It pumps fuel forward from the tank area. The CP3, and now the CP4 suck fuel forward so if you have an air leak such as bad O rings it sucks air and kills the engine.
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Old 10-04-2020, 11:35 AM   #10
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I forgot to mention I picked up a Fass lift pump. Not that I am getting lazy but I am having a local mechanic do the install. Plus I am not sure about all the plumbing required. He told me he has installed many pumps. He also said that if you put the supply line in a bucket you can see the lack of suction the stock pump puts out. I am getting there.
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Old 10-06-2020, 06:08 PM   #11
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I’d recommend putting a nicktane replacement filter kit on the duramaxes. I’ve put a few on my trucks and they’re great. The new cat filter is cheaper and is a 2 micron. Takes about 15 min in a truck to install.
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Old 10-06-2020, 06:57 PM   #12
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I’d recommend putting a nicktane replacement filter kit on the duramaxes. I’ve put a few on my trucks and they’re great. The new cat filter is cheaper and is a 2 micron. Takes about 15 min in a truck to install.

The new GM filters now fit the standard housing and are better than the Cat filters. I switched back to the new OEM from Nicktane.
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Old 10-06-2020, 07:43 PM   #13
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Thanks for that info. Didn’t know that. I’m gonna check into it.
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Old 10-06-2020, 08:35 PM   #14
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Old 10-14-2020, 05:21 PM   #15
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Take off the air cleaner, the two wire harnesses, the bracket for the wires and you can get to bolts that hold the bracket that holds the filterhead. On the big c5500 and c4500 the filter head is bolted to the bracket not the block and you must remoive the bracket to get the filter head off.
I just did this last wekend and it is not a bad job once you do it. LOL
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Old 10-14-2020, 06:30 PM   #16
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YouTube

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Originally Posted by Capt. Rich View Post
Does anyone have experience with removing the fuel filter body on the DuraMax diesel? I can't even see the head of the second machine bolt.
Thanks
Open YouTube on your computer. Do a search for your question. One can find just about anything you have questions about here. They will even have videos showing you how to do it
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Old 10-16-2020, 08:02 AM   #17
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Relats

If you have been changing the filter regularly and there are no leaks you likely do not have a filter problem. If you are losing power or the engine is dying it could be an engine control relay that is not connecting well. On the passenger side of the engine you will find these relays and it could be as simple as a bad contact. Run the engine and then wiggle the relays. If the engine stops you have found the culprit. Remove it and ensure the spades are clean. If so just given them a bit of a twist so they fit tight into the holder.

I had this problem and that was the solution. No problems since. I do support switching to a CAT filter but I thinking that is for another day.
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Old 10-16-2020, 08:09 AM   #18
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Should have noted that when my rig did have this relay problem it would die and then it would slow a restart. During the down time we of course were checking things, opening the hood, trying to figure out what was wrong and these actions shake the engine Re-establishing the connection. Very frustrating and concerning when you are on the highway for sure.
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Old 10-16-2020, 08:26 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by CAG View Post
They are almost all 6.6 Isuzu. That is what a Duramax is. It appears that you have some help now but the URL that I gave you has ALL of the Duramax engines listed and as I said, if you search that web site you will find yours. I did. It is listed under "other" Duramax.



You are correct the O rings go bad and leak. But as with most all Duramax the CP3 is also a weak point and a lift pump is a benefit in most all cases. It pumps fuel forward from the tank area. The CP3, and now the CP4 suck fuel forward so if you have an air leak such as bad O rings it sucks air and kills the engine.

The CP3 is not the problem quite the opposite the CP4 is not able to handle the ultra low sulfur fuel... they even make retro kits to convert from a CP4 to a CP3.. lift pumps are helpful for either... but lubrication is the key...
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Old 10-16-2020, 08:44 AM   #20
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The CP3 is not the problem quite the opposite the CP4 is not able to handle the ultra low sulfur fuel... they even make retro kits to convert from a CP4 to a CP3.. lift pumps are helpful for either... but lubrication is the key...
His year vehicle will not have a CP4. And my reference to the CP3 had to do with it sucking fuel forward which allows for air in the system if you have a bad O ring in the housing. It has nothing to do with which is better.
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