Girard tankless water heater - Page 4

Deal Breaker · 02-19-2017, 02:19 PM

Another option might be to install a 12v re-circulating pump with temp sensor on an existing tank-less unit. We use them in residential construction all the time. If the temp sensor notices a drop below 120F, it activates the pump, the flow sensor in the unit engages and the unit fires up. It will cycle off once the return temp meets your setting requirements. The pumps are very small, dependable and cost effective.

B&M · 02-19-2017, 03:55 PM

We just took our first trip to the desert in our new 2017 Precept 31UL. We are used to conserving water so turned water on and off with kitchen faucets and shower. Took a long time to get hot water so our conservation wasn't the best. Also cold water interruptions in the shower.
We thought the Girard was broken so called the dealer. They said it needed a continuous flow to stay hot. After reading all the posts here with similar problems, not sure what to do. But very happy for all the info.

Deal Breaker · 02-19-2017, 04:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by B&M

We just took our first trip to the desert in our new 2017 Precept 31UL. We are used to conserving water so turned water on and off with kitchen faucets and shower. Took a long time to get hot water so our conservation wasn't the best. Also cold water interruptions in the shower.
We thought the Girard was broken so called the dealer. They said it needed a continuous flow to stay hot. After reading all the posts here with similar problems, not sure what to do. But very happy for all the info.

Yup, boondocking with a tank-less is tough. The units are activated by the flow sensor. Every time the hot water faucet is turned off the unit will shut down. It's particularly bothersome in cold weather, as it wont take long for the line temps to cool...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KdA_gfau1s4

Deal Breaker · 02-19-2017, 05:01 PM

12v recirculating pump options...

Hot Water Circulating Pumps, March, Hartell and Ivan EL SID

blujay40 · 02-19-2017, 09:32 PM

Yep, "-2" is a gen 3.

Butch C · 02-20-2017, 10:35 AM

Thanks blujay40 for your response.

Deal Breaker, I was very impressed with the re-circulating pump install video and believe this should be the fix for getting instant hot water to the bathroom or elsewhere and not wasting a lot of water while waiting for the Girard to kick in while boondocking. Which 12 volt pump would you recommend an where would you install it in an RV (2016 Greyhawk MV)? Would it be relatively easy install? Your opinions will be valued.
Thanks, Butch C

StevWb · 02-20-2017, 10:58 AM

I think Japopsy said it really well, loves his tankless WH...
We too have a 2015 29mv, and the learning curve was sorta steep for the Girard water heater...
Our first biggest mistake was trying to mix hot and cold at the faucet...a Big no, the forum folks here said adjust the water temp with the Temp control knob itself, set it for desired hot water temp, and forget it.
When we are hooked up, can take a really long hot shower with no problem, water temp stays exactly the same.
Dry camping with the measly 33 gallon water tank presents more conservation, so we try to use the kitchen faucet mostly, its nearest the Girard, and wastes less water to get hot. Yes the bathroom wastes water more, till it gets hot., so use that sparingly.
A problem early on was the little reset button on the Girard, it would pop out apperntly on the bumps while travelling. Stranded one night with no hot water, again this forum came to my rescue, even a pic of the button was posted, pushed in the button, voila, hot water.
Called Girard, tech guy sent me free a new (updated ?), button unit, installed myself, tricky little space in there btw, and no more button problem since.
Sure having come from the old style 6 gallon or so water heater in the old A presented a huge change in our hot water habits, but now very happy with this system...
As I said before, the One Thing I really hate on our Jaycy C, is the crummy small 33 gallon fresh water tank, which btw, I installed shut off valves on the 3 overflow hoses, to stop so much water sloshing out of the tank while on the road., we'd lose at least a third of the water. (Our old A had 70 gallon tank...)
Thats another whole story here on Jayco blogs.

Butch C · 02-20-2017, 11:50 AM

StevWb, I too have went through the same learning curve. I used to have a Bounder with 100 gallon FW tank, so now I really have to conserve with the Greyhawk while boondocking. As for the Girard, it works great while hooked to city water. I also set the temp to my liking and do not mix cold water while showereing. It works great. My main complaint is when boondocking you have to wash your face with cold water in the morning or waste a bunch of precious water waiting to for it to get hot. I too bought three 1/2 inch valves for the overflow tubes but haven't installed them yet. When I looked under the GH I notice one tube appears to be smaller. Is your GH like that? If so what size valve did you use?
Thanks, Butch C

Deal Breaker · 02-20-2017, 01:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Butch C

Thanks blujay40 for your response.

Deal Breaker, I was very impressed with the re-circulating pump install video and believe this should be the fix for getting instant hot water to the bathroom or elsewhere and not wasting a lot of water while waiting for the Girard to kick in while boondocking. Which 12 volt pump would you recommend an where would you install it in an RV (2016 Greyhawk MV)? Would it be relatively easy install? Your opinions will be valued.
Thanks, Butch C

I don't have experience with the quality of 12v pumps, in real life housing industry "Grundfos" is the best pump on the market.

As far as installation goes, if you're proficient with PEX and Copper plumbing installation, you should be able to knock it out. Placing the pump anywhere in the looped fresh water plumbing system will keep instant hot water available to all the fixtures. Remember, it will need to be switch controlled as well as thermostatic temperature control as when boondocking if the pressure pump is off, the recirculating pump will be starved of water.

Grundfos Comfort SystemÂ*| Grundfos

Deal Breaker · 02-20-2017, 01:53 PM

Here's an interesting article on low power consumption re-circ pumps....

Using Circulation Pumps in Your Off Grid Home

StevWb · 02-20-2017, 09:41 PM

all three overflow hoses were the same size, I bought 3 plastic type on-off valves on Amazon, they fit on snuggly, (still used hose clamps just in case) I extended the hoses out to the side more, for easier acess. When on the road we keep the valves closed, we can flush the toilet or get a small bit of water still....when we stop our tank is still full....and then we open all the valves.

StevWb · 02-21-2017, 12:38 AM

I bought "two little fishies ball valve 1/2 inch" on amazon, $3.99 each, three of them for the overflow hoses....

Butch C · 02-21-2017, 05:06 PM

Deal Breaker, thanks for the additional information. From what I have read it looks like the El Cid pumps would be the best, however a little pricy at over $200. If that is your choice what watt rating would do the job? Also which type? Solar or Battery? Wouldn't either type work in an RV using its 12 volt system? The only thing I didn't see is are that they are thermostatic temperature controlled. Please let me know your additional thoughts. I really appreciate it!
Thanks, Butch C

tom463219 · 02-21-2017, 05:24 PM

Great idea. Will be doing this also. Thanks for the info.

terryinlivermore · 02-22-2017, 03:14 PM

On our 2016 Jayco Grayhawk 29MV we have had constant issues with our tankless hot water unit. It is intermittent. The instaheat only works when it wants to in city water mode. The dealer has replaced a couple of parts so far and have ordered different part as the problem still exist. We are still waiting for the part to come in. I have taken 3 trips now since July 2016 without hot water. Very frustrating. At first they said there was nothing wrong with the unit and tried to tell us we did not know how to work the controls and charged me $60 for the diagnostic. When we took it back again and met with the service manager they did duplicate the problem, but they would not refund me my $60. Right now they are just guessing and replacing one part at a time. Our water pressure is terrible as well. Have any of you experienced this same problem? If so could you please share. thank you.

terryinlivermore · 02-22-2017, 03:31 PM

Well I should have read the entire thread before I submitted my issue with the tankless water heater. Apparently this is an issue with many Jayco RV owners. Thank you all, your input has been very enlightening and helpful. I made end up replacing mine with a real hot water tank.

pconroy · 02-22-2017, 04:14 PM

Yeah - even tho' I like our Girard Tankless - it is one finicky thing. This last weekend, we were hooked direct to campground water and the pressure / flow rate was just too high to get reliable hot water out of the tank.

And - a few months ago - using an inexpensive Camco pressure reducer also caused problems. Classic "darned if you do, darned if you don't!"

Using the campground to fill the fresh water tank and then running the pump from the tank was the best way to get consistent performance from the unit.

While I didn't have this much trouble with our old conventional Atwood heater - I did run out of hot water. So I'll put up with the finicky behavior.

Airpics · 03-01-2017, 09:58 PM

Too much flow rate, heater can't get the water hot. Too little flow rate and the heater reaches max temp and shuts off, cold surge. Regulate the flow with an adjustable gauge and if too low from the hose fill the tank and use the pump only. Use only the hot water valve in the shower and if a little too hot turn the valve down a little. It's all about keeping the flow through the heater at the right rate to keep the burner always on but not too hot to use the water.

Hivoltage98 · 04-08-2017, 07:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Airpics

Too much flow rate, heater can't get the water hot. Too little flow rate and the heater reaches max temp and shuts off, cold surge. Regulate the flow with an adjustable gauge and if too low from the hose fill the tank and use the pump only. Use only the hot water valve in the shower and if a little too hot turn the valve down a little. It's all about keeping the flow through the heater at the right rate to keep the burner always on but not too hot to use the water.

Same. I hate it. I put a thermostatic mixing valve in with the hot water heater and that stops the unit from scalding me and the family. BUT I need to replace the heater sometime in the near future.
I wanna research the truma and a few other brands before I jump into another one.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

anav8or · 04-08-2017, 07:46 PM

We have a Truma Comfort Plus in our current RV and it is MUCH better than the Girard we had in our '15 Seneca.

Although there is still a bit of a delay getting hot water initially (~10 seconds compared to 30+ with the Girard unit in our Seneca), it works more like a traditional water heater in that you can mix cold water in to adjust temperature without having the unit cut out.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

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