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Old 01-14-2018, 02:18 PM   #1
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Greyhawk battery disconnect switch needed?

My 2018 Greyhawk has a master rocker type switch for the house battery inside by exterior door/electric stairs. The dealer said the stairs still work with the house battery off, which makes me wonder what else may draw power with the master switch for the house battery off. I don't want to drain the house battery while in storage. Looking for advice if I should go ahead and put in a battery disconnect switch for storage or if the master built in works good enough. While in storage, there could be 2 months without usage.

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Old 01-14-2018, 02:21 PM   #2
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You'll still need to either install a disconnect switch or disconnect the battery if you keep it in storage without shore power. The other battery drains are the propane detector, the leveler electronics, the slide electronics, the entertainment center and possibly some other small draws.
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Old 01-14-2018, 03:58 PM   #3
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Shouldn't the RV master power switch keep those from powering? I'm thinking I'll go ahead and do it anyway, just to be safe. I haven't had it near by long enough to test and see what the switch actually removes power from when the built in master house battery switch is off.
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Old 01-14-2018, 07:03 PM   #4
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The item I know for sure keeps drawing a bit of juice is the propane detector.
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Old 01-14-2018, 07:28 PM   #5
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Vehicle battery?

So we have disconnected and pulled our house battery however the propane light is still on. A 2017 Greyhawk 29 MV. When I turned the ignition on to open a window I got several alarms that makes me think that these things are connected to the vehicle start up battery? I don't want to drain my vehicle battery..Anyone know what items are fed by the vehicle battery? Should I start it and run it( didn't want to get condensation as I'm in a very cold area, or have to uncover it.....)
Would appreciate advice...

Rick
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Old 01-14-2018, 09:06 PM   #6
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They may have wired the newer 29MVs propane detector into the chassis battery. However, besides that there's other parasitic draws on the chassis battery. The transmission, the engine ECU, the entertainment center (if the house battery is disconnected) all have a bit of a draw. I'm guessing the chassis battery is good for a couple or three weeks before it dies. I'm plugged in all the time and I keep the house battery charged that way. I also keep a battery tender hooked up to the chassis battery to maintain it.
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Old 01-15-2018, 09:30 AM   #7
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35 Days

I have been trying a bit of an experiment this year. Last winter I disconnected both of my batteries and would then go to the RV every 35 days (My work schedule is a 5 week cycle), reconnect the batteries and run the engine and genny to keep things lubed and recharge the batteries. Reconnecting the batteries in sub-zero weather while standing in snow banks sucked!

This year I have left the batteries connected with the master switch off to see the impact of the parasitic draw. The battery monitor when fully charged on my unit indicates 12.4v. So far I have had two 35 day cycles this winter and both times the battery monitor has indicated the house battery to still be at 12.3v. My pattern has been to turn on the master switch, read the battery monitor, start the vehicle engine which subsequently increases the available power to 14.4v and then start the generator. I don't have any readings for the engine battery, but both times it has turned over without issue.

Based on the experience so far this year I don't see the need for me to add a hard battery disconnect since I need to run the Genny once a month anyway. Plus I like to go up and see the unit and do a visual inspection anyway... If nothing else it reminds me that the warmer camping months will return soon.
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Old 01-16-2018, 08:55 AM   #8
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In our 2009 Greyhawk 31FS, the Battery Disconnect Switch disconnected everything in the house, except for the converter and the steps. The steps were connected to chassis battery. The Propane/CO Detector were connected to the house battery. That's how I knew that the battery did indeed disconnect when I hit the switch. The detector would give a little chirp when 12v was removed from it. The detector was also connected to the ignition on the chassis battery, so there was no parasitic draw if the key was not in the ACC position or the engine wasn't running.

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Old 01-16-2018, 08:07 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Griswald One View Post
I have been trying a bit of an experiment this year. Last winter I disconnected both of my batteries and would then go to the RV every 35 days (My work schedule is a 5 week cycle), reconnect the batteries and run the engine and genny to keep things lubed and recharge the batteries. Reconnecting the batteries in sub-zero weather while standing in snow banks sucked!

This year I have left the batteries connected with the master switch off to see the impact of the parasitic draw. The battery monitor when fully charged on my unit indicates 12.4v. So far I have had two 35 day cycles this winter and both times the battery monitor has indicated the house battery to still be at 12.3v. My pattern has been to turn on the master switch, read the battery monitor, start the vehicle engine which subsequently increases the available power to 14.4v and then start the generator. I don't have any readings for the engine battery, but both times it has turned over without issue.

Based on the experience so far this year I don't see the need for me to add a hard battery disconnect since I need to run the Genny once a month anyway. Plus I like to go up and see the unit and do a visual inspection anyway... If nothing else it reminds me that the warmer camping months will return soon.
I agree with this. My experience has been the same.
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