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06-21-2018, 06:03 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Eastpoint, Fl.
Posts: 338
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Hooking up to 30 amp
We recently purchased a 2016 Greyhawk 29MV and I’m a little confused on how to connect to the 30 amp pedestal properly. I understand about turning off the AC and fridge but the manual says to turn off the coach 30 if I understand it correctly. Can someone steer me in the right direction. Thanks, Jimmyd
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06-21-2018, 06:06 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Tower City
Posts: 255
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Just make sure the breaker at the pedestal is off, plug in, flip the breaker on. Carry on with your day.
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06-21-2018, 06:08 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Eastpoint, Fl.
Posts: 338
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Thank you for your quick response. That is the way it worked on our previous coach.
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06-21-2018, 07:35 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Mapleton
Posts: 4,378
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I always turn off the AC before I unplug and then I just plug it in when I get to my next stop. 30 years that way, never had a problem, never shut off a breaker inside.
__________________
2017 SLX 195RB
2021 Jeep Grand Cherokee Summit L 5.7L V8
Andersen WDH hitch, Renogy 100 AH Lithium &
200 Watts solar panels from Renogy
Prev. '14 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland, gas 3.6 V6
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06-21-2018, 07:56 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Granbury
Posts: 829
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Jimmy, these guys offer sound advice...I would also suggest a inline surge protector. They don't cost much but can save you a bundle.
It will monitor the power at the pedestal and make sure it has the proper wiring and neutrals while protecting against any power surge coming in that could damage your electronics.
I have the same floorplan as you and cut my power cord just enough past the compartment door where the cord is stored so I could strip the wires and install a new connector. Then I installed a new 30amp connector on both ends so the cord was now removable from the compartment. Then I installed a inline surge protector.
Now I can store my cord someplace besides that small compartment and my surge protector is locked behind that compartment door instead of hanging off the pedestal where someone could steal it.
Sure makes hooking and unhooking that cord a lot easier. Plus it allows me to install the surge protector inside that small compartment.
Wish I had taken some pictures of the install but it wasn't anything hard. Took maybe 30 minutes. I purchased everthing from RVUpgrades.com but I am sure any RV parts place will have what you need.
Wish I could take credit for this easy but very good upgrade but I got it from someone on this forum. Lots of good tips and such floating around on the Jayco forum.
__________________
2018 Greyhawk 29MVP
2018 Jeep 4 Door Rubicon Recon
Retired and Under New Management (See Spouse For Details)
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06-22-2018, 03:53 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Eastpoint, Fl.
Posts: 338
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Thank you Roger and Cabinetmaker for your responses. I thought the manual made it too complicated. I have a 50 amp progressive surge protector from my previous coach that we are using at present. I like the idea of cutting that 30 amp cord and keeping the surge protector in the cabinet. We are doing a short 3 day trip this weekend to get some time onboard before a longer trip. Learning as we go. We bought this coach with only 4434 miles on it and I’m sure it will need the front end alignment as noted on this forum. It wanders going down the road. Hope to get to that over the summer. Safe travels, Jimmyd
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06-22-2018, 05:34 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Abingdon
Posts: 6,177
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It's surprising how many people don't use an EMS of some sort. Just straight into the pedestal. I have to admit, I did the same when I first started out and thought nothing of it. Knowing what I know now, it was definitely sketchy. Live and learn I guess. I still have people ask what it is. And yes, I still lock it to the pedestal!
__________________
2013 Jayco Eagle 328 RLTS
2021 Keystone Montana 3121RL
2013 F350 6.7L 4x4 CCLB
W/Air Lift air bags (front & rear)
Equal-I-Zer™ WDH & B&W Companion
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06-22-2018, 07:02 AM
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#8
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Site Team
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: James Island, SC
Posts: 22,859
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No matter what type camper you have there should not be an arc at the receptacle when you plug in.
Some pedestals we have seen do not have a breaker. In that case, I throw the main breaker in the camper so prevent the arc, which can deteriorate the plug connection over time. It can also cause shortened life of the outlet.
__________________
Moderator
2011- 351RLTS Eagle, MorRyde suspension/pin box,
2017- F350 6.7 PSD Lariat FX4,SRW, SB,CC
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Can't find what you're looking on JOF? Try Jayco Owners Forum Custom Google Search
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06-22-2018, 07:47 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Surprise
Posts: 2,623
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You don't want a surge protector, you want an EMS, electrical management system. Also you really can't install a 50 amp portable EMS or Surge protector hard wired in a cabinet. Go to progressive industries and read about their products. You can purchase a hardwired EMS which has a remote readout as to what is going on in your electrical system. I would also suggest a pressure regulator on your water system. The campground were at has 140 psi, much to high for your RV.
Good Luck, and happy camping!
__________________
2011 Toyota Tundra double cab
2015 27RLS
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06-22-2018, 09:55 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Eastpoint, Fl.
Posts: 338
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Thanks Wags. I do have the Progressive EMS from my previous coach. Also I carry a Watts Oil filled water regulator for those higher elevation campgrounds. We stayed at on last year out west that had approximately 150 PSI. Not good for the coach plumbing or hoses in that heat. Take care and safe travels.
Jimmyd
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06-22-2018, 06:44 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Miami
Posts: 356
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cabinetmaker
Jimmy, these guys offer sound advice...I would also suggest a inline surge protector. They don't cost much but can save you a bundle.
It will monitor the power at the pedestal and make sure it has the proper wiring and neutrals while protecting against any power surge coming in that could damage your electronics.
I have the same floorplan as you and cut my power cord just enough past the compartment door where the cord is stored so I could strip the wires and install a new connector. Then I installed a new 30amp connector on both ends so the cord was now removable from the compartment. Then I installed a inline surge protector.
Now I can store my cord someplace besides that small compartment and my surge protector is locked behind that compartment door instead of hanging off the pedestal where someone could steal it.
Sure makes hooking and unhooking that cord a lot easier. Plus it allows me to install the surge protector inside that small compartment.
Wish I had taken some pictures of the install but it wasn't anything hard. Took maybe 30 minutes. I purchased everthing from RVUpgrades.com but I am sure any RV parts place will have what you need.
Wish I could take credit for this easy but very good upgrade but I got it from someone on this forum. Lots of good tips and such floating around on the Jayco forum.
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I did the same thing on my 29 MV the peace of mind with the surge protector is worth it,. It has saved my internal electrics twice.
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06-22-2018, 06:52 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Tower City
Posts: 255
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wags999
The campground were at has 140 psi!
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Probably amazing for blasting out the black tank!!
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06-22-2018, 07:49 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Granbury
Posts: 829
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wags999
You don't want a surge protector, you want an EMS, electrical management system. Also you really can't install a 50 amp portable EMS or Surge protector hard wired in a cabinet. Go to progressive industries and read about their products. You can purchase a hardwired EMS which has a remote readout as to what is going on in your electrical system. I would also suggest a pressure regulator on your water system. The campground were at has 140 psi, much to high for your RV.
Good Luck, and happy camping!
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This is what is called a surge guard that I was referring to. Yes it is portable not hardwired. The only difference in what I did and others is instead of locking it to the power pedestal I cut my 30 amp cord and installed 2 new connectors so it’s inside the lockable Rv compartment.
Here is what I was referring to. This is what I have. Progressive Industries names it Surge Guard.
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06-22-2018, 10:34 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Los angeles
Posts: 234
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Cabinetmaker,
Instead of cutting your cord why didn't you just attach the EMS to your cord inside the cabinet and then run a 30 amp extension cord from the EMS, located inside of your cabinet, to the pedestal? I think that's what I plan on doing.
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06-23-2018, 12:47 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Granbury
Posts: 829
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaytalk
Cabinetmaker,
Instead of cutting your cord why didn't you just attach the EMS to your cord inside the cabinet and then run a 30 amp extension cord from the EMS, located inside of your cabinet, to the pedestal? I think that's what I plan on doing.
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This will work but your running a lot more extension cord than necessary...which is never wanted if not needed. Current drop and heat resistance and such.
Plus your buying an additional cord which is considerable more money than the two new connectors.
Still I think that will work ok and it does give you additional length if ever needed. I doubt another 25' would really matter that much overall.
__________________
2018 Greyhawk 29MVP
2018 Jeep 4 Door Rubicon Recon
Retired and Under New Management (See Spouse For Details)
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06-23-2018, 08:03 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Los angeles
Posts: 234
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cabinetmaker
This will work but your running a lot more extension cord than necessary...which is never wanted if not needed. Current drop and heat resistance and such.
Plus your buying an additional cord which is considerable more money than the two new connectors.
Still I think that will work ok and it does give you additional length if ever needed. I doubt another 25' would really matter that much overall.
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Thanks for the info. Do you have pictures of how you cut your core and respliced it together?
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06-23-2018, 11:07 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Granbury
Posts: 829
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaytalk
Thanks for the info. Do you have pictures of how you cut your core and respliced it together?
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No pictures of mine but imagine cutting the cord then splice in the new cut ends into each end of these connectors. (These are for example only and not true 30 amp Rv plugs)
Then after new ends are installed you and plug your cord back together like it was originally. Now if you want a Surge Guard you just unplug and plug it in-line between your new ends.
The other picture shows you a true 30amp RV plug on the left. Notice the difference in a home dryer plug wiring on the right.
Hope that helps!
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06-26-2018, 01:41 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: South Texas
Posts: 7,217
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Instead of cutting the cord, you can get a male "pigtail" (offered in various lengths; something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Conntek-14153..._&dpSrc=detail). What I did was purchase one of those pigtails, unwire the original shore power cord out of the junction box at the back of the compartment (instead of cutting it), wire the new pigtail into the junction box, and then attach a new female end to the original shore power cord.
I also have a 50ft extension that I used with my trailer that has a twistlock 50A on one end, and 30A male on the other end. At some point I'll need another extension or I'll get bored one day, and I will cut off the twist-lock connector and put on a new 30A female end and have another 50 ft of 30A cord.
Eventually I will get a portable EMS from Progressive and put it in that shore power compartment like many of you have done.
__________________
-2018 Greyhawk 29MV
-2020 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited (JLU) (Primary Toad)
-1994 Jeep Wrangler YJ (Secondary Toad)
-2014 Jay Flight 28BHBE & Ram 2500 6.4L CC 4x4 (sold)
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06-26-2018, 02:27 PM
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#19
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Mountains of SoCal
Posts: 14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cabinetmaker
Jimmy, these guys offer sound advice...I would also suggest a inline surge protector. They don't cost much but can save you a bundle.
It will monitor the power at the pedestal and make sure it has the proper wiring and neutrals while protecting against any power surge coming in that could damage your electronics.
I have the same floorplan as you and cut my power cord just enough past the compartment door where the cord is stored so I could strip the wires and install a new connector. Then I installed a new 30amp connector on both ends so the cord was now removable from the compartment. Then I installed a inline surge protector.
Now I can store my cord someplace besides that small compartment and my surge protector is locked behind that compartment door instead of hanging off the pedestal where someone could steal it.
Sure makes hooking and unhooking that cord a lot easier. Plus it allows me to install the surge protector inside that small compartment.
Wish I had taken some pictures of the install but it wasn't anything hard. Took maybe 30 minutes. I purchased everthing from RVUpgrades.com but I am sure any RV parts place will have what you need.
Wish I could take credit for this easy but very good upgrade but I got it from someone on this forum. Lots of good tips and such floating around on the Jayco forum.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rodpod
I did the same thing on my 29 MV the peace of mind with the surge protector is worth it,. It has saved my internal electrics twice.
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Pictures yet?
__________________
Brady
2018 Jayco 29 MVP
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06-26-2018, 04:27 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Los angeles
Posts: 234
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Camper_bob
Instead of cutting the cord, you can get a male "pigtail" (offered in various lengths; something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Conntek-14153..._&dpSrc=detail). What I did was purchase one of those pigtails, unwire the original shore power cord out of the junction box at the back of the compartment (instead of cutting it), wire the new pigtail into the junction box, and then attach a new female end to the original shore power cord.
I also have a 50ft extension that I used with my trailer that has a twistlock 50A on one end, and 30A male on the other end. At some point I'll need another extension or I'll get bored one day, and I will cut off the twist-lock connector and put on a new 30A female end and have another 50 ft of 30A cord.
Eventually I will get a portable EMS from Progressive and put it in that shore power compartment like many of you have done.
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That's an interesting way to do it. Did you have any problems reaching the junction box? Do you have any pictures?
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