Radio

ImaCamper · 05-26-2021, 03:56 PM

My rig is a 2021 Redhawk 22C. The motorhome radio is on the dash in the cab. The ignition switch has to be in the accessory position for the radio to work. During our second camping trip, we listened to the radio for several hours. The vehicle battery was then drained and the starter wouldn't turn the engine over. The shore power was on the entire time. I looked through the manuals and didn't see anything mentioning this issue. My questions are:
1. How do I listen to the radio without draining the battery?
2. Why didn't the shore power (or generator) recharge the battery?

Thanks for any insight you can give me.

CAG · 05-26-2021, 05:13 PM

Someone here mentioned that the vehicle battery does get some recharge from shore power but most goes to the house battery. Short of rewiring, I think a stand alone radio in the coach may be the only alternative. Someone may have a better idea but a nice Bose radio, plugged into AC would probably save some headaches.

jyh818 · 05-26-2021, 05:44 PM

I have the Sony radio with the big screen and it will come on when I flick the coach battery. The key does not need to be in the ignition. If you're on shore power, leave the coach battery on (connected) and it should charge the coach battery.

dvspl · 05-26-2021, 08:31 PM

My Greyhawk is wired so that the dash radio gets power from the chassis battery when the ignition is on, but gets power from the coach batteries when ignition is off. Although the converter doesn't charge the chassis battery, it doesn't need to as the radio doesn't draw it down. It's possible that the Redhawks are wired differently, but I'd be surprised. Ask Jayco for a 12V wiring diagram. I'll bet something is wrong (e.g. blown fuse, reversed diode).

CAG · 05-26-2021, 09:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dvspl

My Greyhawk is wired so that the dash radio gets power from the chassis battery when the ignition is on, but gets power from the coach batteries when ignition is off. Although the converter doesn't charge the chassis battery, it doesn't need to as the radio doesn't draw it down. It's possible that the Redhawks are wired differently, but I'd be surprised. Ask Jayco for a 12V wiring diagram. I'll bet something is wrong (e.g. blown fuse, reversed diode).

If you have ever seen the wiring behind the dash you might think differently. Nothing is certain with Jayco workmanship.

pconroy · 05-27-2021, 09:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ImaCamper

2. Why didn't the shore power (or generator) recharge the battery?

Thanks for any insight you can give me.

Shore power/the converter doesn't charge our chassis battery either. But the radio doesn't drain it either.

I had an old trickle charger lying around that I just VHB taped to an open spot in the engine bay. If I'm worried about draining the engine battery, I'll run an extension cord to that and plug it in.

Camper_bob · 05-27-2021, 01:02 PM

Most rigs do not come wired to charge the chassis battery from shore power, but most work the other way (alternator will charge house battery).

You can add a product called a Trick-l-start that you add in so that your converter will also charge the chassis battery from shore/generator power once the house batteries are fully charged, but will not allow the chassis battery to discharge into the "house". I installed one on my rig. Or you can do like pconroy and charge the chassis battery another way. I chose the Trick-l-start because it's a "set it and forget it" system.

Many/most motorhome dash radios also have a diode that will allow the radio to operate from either 12V source (chassis or house). Since my in-dash head-unit also handles the "house" A/V work, it's wired this way. Yours could be wired wrong, or that part of wiring was not included during installation (reference Jayco's inconsistent installation work), or it could be it was never intended to be wired that way. This diode could have become disconnected or could've failed.

jyh818 · 05-27-2021, 01:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Camper_bob

Most rigs do not come wired to charge the chassis battery from shore power, but most work the other way (alternator will charge house battery).

You can add a product called a Trick-l-start that you add in so that your converter will also charge the chassis battery from shore/generator power once the house batteries are fully charged, but will not allow the chassis battery to discharge into the "house". I installed one on my rig. Or you can do like pconroy and charge the chassis battery another way. I chose the Trick-l-start because it's a "set it and forget it" system.

Many/most motorhome dash radios also have a diode that will allow the radio to operate from either 12V source (chassis or house). Since my in-dash head-unit also handles the "house" A/V work, it's wired this way. Yours could be wired wrong, or that part of wiring was not included during installation (reference Jayco's inconsistent installation work), or it could be it was never intended to be wired that way. This diode could have become disconnected or could've failed.

If the alternator charges the house battery when driving, what would adding a second 12V house battery in parallel do to the alternator? Would it overload it and cause it wear out faster? Should I look into a higher output alternator?

Camper_bob · 05-27-2021, 01:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jyh818

If the alternator charges the house battery when driving, what would adding a second 12V house battery in parallel do to the alternator? Would it overload it and cause it wear out faster? Should I look into a higher output alternator?

That I don't know for sure; it's a good question.

I would assume that these are equipped with a higher output alternator (like ambulance package) and it should be fine charging multiple batteries.

Your alternator is never going to be your primary charging method for your house batteries anyway. That's the work of the converter/charger. If your house batteries are low, and you're concerned about over-taxing your alternator, you should consider running the generator or hooking into shore power.

That being said, I've gotten to where I start the chassis motor and let it run a little to give the house battery enough charge to turn over the generator. I do this when the rig has been sitting for a bit, and I know the house battery is going to be a little low, like when I go to storage lot to exercise my generator during longer-term storage.

Mahatnmacoat · 05-27-2021, 04:58 PM

I replaced the momentary on push button jump start switch with a ON/OFF rocker switch. When I'm plugged in or running the genset the switch is ON. The switch is OFF when we're driving since the alternator is automatically charging both house and chassis batteries. I also put a dual input battery monitor in the dash, $14.00 on Amazon. Both those mods are detailed in other post I've made. As to the alternator question, as we move along toward a high capacity solar system I plan to install at least a 200 amp alternator. What cooks alternators is forcing them to run at full capacity full time. Let's say you have a two battery house bank and the chassis battery. The voltage regulator will sense a draw and direct alternator output to the active battery. Stock alternators are sized to KEEP THE BATTERY CHARGED while the electrical system is under full load. For example, you're running at night in the summer with the chassis air conditioner on Max AC, the head lights and all the running lights and the radio are on. The stock alternator is sized to keep the chassis battery at full charge under that load. Now add let's say another 400 amp battery bank. That battery is running what ever might be turned on in the motor home, lights, maybe the refrigerator, maybe cameras, the list goes on. Sooner or later the alternator is going to give up.

I tend to lecture. Please forgive me if I've done it again.

VKC · 05-30-2021, 07:05 PM

My Grayhawk has a push button that will use the house battery in case this happens

Bubblehead · 06-01-2021, 06:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ImaCamper

My rig is a 2021 Redhawk 22C. The motorhome radio is on the dash in the cab. The ignition switch has to be in the accessory position for the radio to work. During our second camping trip, we listened to the radio for several hours. The vehicle battery was then drained and the starter wouldn't turn the engine over. The shore power was on the entire time. I looked through the manuals and didn't see anything mentioning this issue. My questions are:
1. How do I listen to the radio without draining the battery?
2. Why didn't the shore power (or generator) recharge the battery?

Thanks for any insight you can give me.

We have a 2021 24B. The Sony radio stays on after the ignition is turned off. You have to go through the touchscreen to turn it off.

Shore power or the generator may not charge the vehicle battery.

Bubblehead · 06-01-2021, 04:30 PM

Shore power or the generator may not charge the vehicle battery. The radio appears to be connected to the vehicle battery.

bmccain · 06-01-2021, 06:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CAG

If you have ever seen the wiring behind the dash you might think differently. Nothing is certain with Jayco workmanship.

Just curious with this response. I have a 2021 greyhawk prestige 29mvp. If i use my usb connector with the iphone it disconnects when i hit a bump. Any opinion on what the best start for correction is? thanks

jyh818 · 06-01-2021, 06:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bmccain

Just curious with this response. I have a 2021 greyhawk prestige 29mvp. If i use my usb connector with the iphone it disconnects when i hit a bump. Any opinion on what the best start for correction is? thanks

There is a bad connection. I would start with a different USB cable to your phone. If that doesn't correct the problem, it could be the socket on the dash. Or could be the connection between the socket and the head unit.

bmccain · 06-01-2021, 06:45 PM

thanks. the cord is good, have tried a different one. I will get to looking at the other options.

Camper_bob · 06-02-2021, 08:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bmccain

thanks. the cord is good, have tried a different one. I will get to looking at the other options.

Could also be a bad outlet. The ones they install are not known for quality. If it were me, I'd pull the outlet, measure the incoming circuit just to make sure it's not a problem further "upstream", and replace the outlet with a high output one that also shows a voltage & amperage readout.

And knowing me, I'd probably install a "marine grade" outlet ... just because.

Funny this came up, I have a "dead" 12V outlet in my dash too. Went to leave the other day, and my Blue Ox wireless brake controller was not on. Switched outlets and voila, it came on. Haven't had a chance to troubleshoot yet...

wiarcher · 06-05-2021, 02:38 PM

I had the same issue with my 2020 red hawk 22c and after several communications with Jayco I was told that they could not change the wiring on the Chevy as that would invalidate the warranty so it is what it is. I told them that they misrepresented the sound system as the speakers both in and out are connected only to the cab radio. So basically the speakers are useless unless you are running for office and want to drive along playing music.

David0205 · 06-05-2021, 06:18 PM

I agree about the wiring from Jayco. Wiring is just ran any old way.

Johnynorthland · 06-05-2021, 06:52 PM

I use to run my radio on my 2019 Redhawk when I was in shore power, and it hasn’t drained the battery. But the radio is a POS, so I use just a blue tooth speaker outside.

I lost my right channel, bad connection, dealer re-crimped it, it went out again, I guess the suck at fixing things that are very simple to do, the also knocked off my 12V cig adapter wire!

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