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Old 05-22-2020, 11:00 AM   #1
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Seneca 37K Air System and Dumping Questions

Took delivery finally yesterday, delivery wasn't perfect and there are some "to-do" items that we'll have to go back for like a missing sound bar and that box that moves the HDMI around. The lot got broken into at some point recently and they keep their coaches unlocked on a locked lot and well... I guess the sound bar and HDMI ethernet switcher were too much to resist... Anyways...

Air system questions...

1. Is it normal for the pressures to fluctuate while driving? I noticed my secondary (I'm guessing airbag) gauge will slowly bleed down to 100 then the system will kick in and pump it right back up. No faults or errors, just an observation that I'd like to know is right or not.

2. Is it normal for the bags to be emptied when the jacks come down? I noticed when I put the jacks down a ton of air gets released (loud air sound) and when I look in the cab the primary air system is down to the 100 PSI level for the brakes (doesn't seem to fall and coach doesn't move) and the secondary system is in the 50s.

Dumping Questions...

1. Never had multiple tanks for grey and black, if I just want to dump both grays or one grey can I do that without having to dump any of the blacks? I can't seem to figure that out...

2. Can each tank be dumped independently?

Thanks!!

Jeff
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Old 05-22-2020, 11:12 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by jeffro01 View Post
Took delivery finally yesterday, delivery wasn't perfect and there are some "to-do" items that we'll have to go back for like a missing sound bar and that box that moves the HDMI around. The lot got broken into at some point recently and they keep their coaches unlocked on a locked lot and well... I guess the sound bar and HDMI ethernet switcher were too much to resist... Anyways...

Air system questions...

1. Is it normal for the pressures to fluctuate while driving? I noticed my secondary (I'm guessing airbag) gauge will slowly bleed down to 100 then the system will kick in and pump it right back up. No faults or errors, just an observation that I'd like to know is right or not.

2. Is it normal for the bags to be emptied when the jacks come down? I noticed when I put the jacks down a ton of air gets released (loud air sound) and when I look in the cab the primary air system is down to the 100 PSI level for the brakes (doesn't seem to fall and coach doesn't move) and the secondary system is in the 50s.

Dumping Questions...

1. Never had multiple tanks for grey and black, if I just want to dump both grays or one grey can I do that without having to dump any of the blacks? I can't seem to figure that out...

2. Can each tank be dumped independently?

Thanks!!

Jeff
Air pressures will fluctuate some while driving but for the most part mine remain relatively stable.

Yes, when you let the jacks down it will dump the air bags. I often times will auto level one or two times to release all the air from the bags and doing so keeps the system from raising the coach above comfortable entry step level. Eventually I may install the air dump mod that is open the forum.

I only have one grey and black tank (37TS) but they can and should be dumped independently. The are separate valves for the grey and black and then there is one valve used to dump the old fashioned way if I don't want to use the macerator.
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Old 05-22-2020, 01:52 PM   #3
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We have a 2019 37RB and figured out on our own the dual tanks.

Yes, you can dump any or all individually, since each has its own dump valve. Most people dump the black first and then the gray to clean the black from the hose as it empties.
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Old 05-22-2020, 10:31 PM   #4
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Air bags adjust as your rig transfers weight. The air bag control valve is basically a lever on the axle connected to the frame. If the axle is too close to the frame air is allowed in, when the axle is too far air is released. Also air is lost as you apply your brakes. So normally it will lose air as you move along.

When using your leveler jacks the weight is removed from the rear axle and the distance increases and the air is released to try to lower the distance.

Not sure how the sewer works with four tanks since we have one of each not two. I typically hook up the sanicon and open the grey tank valve. Then every four days or so I close the grey tank and let the level build up. Then the next day I open the black tank and use the pump to pump it out followed by the grey tank.

If you are new to air brakes you might want to gogglem how they work and watch some videos on them. They are a very safe system but do have some tests that should be performed to be sure they are working correctly. Also the automatic brake adjusters should be checked regularly to be sure they are adjusting correctly..

Enjoy your new toy.
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Old 05-22-2020, 11:40 PM   #5
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Thanks everyone! Took our first trip today and felt like the air system was reasonably stable and all of that so good to know on the bags when you level. Figured out the tank situation with a combination of trial and error and the manual...

Few other kinks I'm working out such as a few of the roller shades (solar and blackout both) don't want to stay extended down. Biggest issue right now is the stove, no propane to the stove. Every other propane appliance works fine, tested the hot water heater (actually running on propane entirely due to being a 30amp park), and the furnace on propane without issue. So either the main valve assembly on the stove is broken or the line is kinked somewhere or something strange like that... Going to tinker with it in the morning.

Otherwise, figuring things out as I go... Reading the manuals has been a help. However, the single biggest thing I don't like is there doesn't seem to be a way to view how much energy the coach is drawing. Being a 30amp park, it's nice to know so I don't trip the breaker. Am I missing something here?

Thanks,
Jeff
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Old 05-23-2020, 06:42 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffro01 View Post
Thanks everyone! Took our first trip today and felt like the air system was reasonably stable and all of that so good to know on the bags when you level. Figured out the tank situation with a combination of trial and error and the manual...

Few other kinks I'm working out such as a few of the roller shades (solar and blackout both) don't want to stay extended down. Biggest issue right now is the stove, no propane to the stove. Every other propane appliance works fine, tested the hot water heater (actually running on propane entirely due to being a 30amp park), and the furnace on propane without issue. So either the main valve assembly on the stove is broken or the line is kinked somewhere or something strange like that... Going to tinker with it in the morning.

Otherwise, figuring things out as I go... Reading the manuals has been a help. However, the single biggest thing I don't like is there doesn't seem to be a way to view how much energy the coach is drawing. Being a 30amp park, it's nice to know so I don't trip the breaker. Am I missing something here?

Thanks,
Jeff
Did the stove work during the PDI and then quit or did the stove not get checked during PDI?

Cycle through the inverter remote panel. There may be an indication of load on there. I'm not sure of this but I recall seeing something that showed load.
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Old 05-23-2020, 11:24 AM   #7
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Our Seneca would have issues when we would leave for a trip. Aftrer poking around underneath I found they had routed the gas hose up over the main frame rail and the compartment the water tank was in was above it. When we would leave with a full water tank, the weight if it would pinch off the gas line running up to the stove. When I added bracing support for the water tank I re-routed the hose forward and over the frame so nothing would ever pinch it off again. There is an aluminum distribution block up behind the propane tanks that the hoses come off of, follow the line that runs toward the stove and check to see it is not getting pinched off.
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Old 05-23-2020, 12:04 PM   #8
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Yeah we noticed during our PDI but simply forgot to follow up before we left. Our delivery was a day late due to issues with the jacks so we were scrambling to get moving so we could leave on our first trip.

My assumption is it’s pinched as well, I’ll see if I can figure it out while we’re here at the campground. Thanks!!!

Thanks,
Jeff
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Old 05-23-2020, 01:21 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffro01 View Post
........ Otherwise, figuring things out as I go... Reading the manuals has been a help. However, the single biggest thing I don't like is there doesn't seem to be a way to view how much energy the coach is drawing. Being a 30amp park, it's nice to know so I don't trip the breaker. Am I missing something here?
Thanks,
Jeff
In our few years of travels... we have found ourselves in a 30A campsite a few times. What we have learned by tripped breakers at the pedestal - we have adopted into practice when we find ourselves in another 30A park.

Summer:
Warm days - we turn the bedroom AC off and let the rest of the Seneca get cooled by the front AC. If you run the front AC and the Convection oven at the same time - you come close to tripping the pedestal.

Warm Evenings - before bed time, we shut down the front AC and turn on the Bedroom AC to cool down the bedroom. Making sure the remaining cool air is flowing thru the ceiling vents into the front of the Seneca all night.

Winter:
Cold days - One electric space heater in the bedroom and the fireplace heater on all day. Must shut down one of these heaters to use the Microwave/convection oven.

Cold Evenings - One electric space heater in the bedroom and the fireplace heater on all night. Propane Furnace thermostat set to come on / off when the temperature falls below your personal comfort level while sleeping. (we set at 59F) There have been a few times we still tripped the pedestal in the middle of the night. Keep the warm slippers handy for resetting it in the middle of the night in really cold weather.

Just remember that when you are plugged in, your still drawing power for your Fridge, Power Converter and any other electric appliances you have.
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Old 05-23-2020, 10:27 PM   #10
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RTFM... Stove wasn't broken, we just were too stupid to operate it.. LOL Found that you needed to press down on the knobs for at least 10 seconds to unlock them due to their "security" features. I guess that makes me feel better that simply bumping the knobs won't start releasing propane into the cabin.

Jeff
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Old 05-24-2020, 06:33 AM   #11
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RTFM... Stove wasn't broken, we just were too stupid to operate it.. LOL Found that you needed to press down on the knobs for at least 10 seconds to unlock them due to their "security" features. I guess that makes me feel better that simply bumping the knobs won't start releasing propane into the cabin.

Jeff
Glad that worked out for you. I wasn't aware of that safety feature and we have not used our cooktop. When we are out it is either grill or crockpot cooking. I am thinking about adding a Blackstone Griddle (modified to use on board LP) to the arsenal for the next trip. Our last 2 motorhomes were both traded in with the LP cooktops (one with oven) having never been used.
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