Seneca Ice Maker water line

[SloPoke]

Heads up those with a Norcold 12CuFt four door fridge/freezer. This afternoon today, I was walking past the Seneca and quickly notice there was water spraying out of the Lower Fridge vent. Not knowing what was going on, I opened the main door and shut the water pump off and went to investigate.

Short story: The clear 1/4" tubing (Not 9mm) from the Ice maker shutoff valve to the blue Ice-maker water valve decided to give up. It was a stream about the size of a paper match, and running out the bottom of the fridge vent. I was lucky to catch it within about an hour of when it might of happened as I walked by the Seneca about that time before.

No damage, since the water ran out the lower vent door, but I went and took that water line out - It was only about a half-inch from the hot part of the fridge assembly - likely cracked because of the exposure to high amounts of heat for a soft vinyl 1/4 water line that should not be used for this purpose.

Seneca owners check what you have... there was no advance warning, it just split at the bend between the shutoff valve and the Ice Maker valve.

[SloPoke]

So... after removing the plastic tube and replacing with a stainless braided line, I inspected the original one and found that this tubing is not recommended for ice-makers. It lost about 80% of it's flexibility and eventually cracked at the outside radius.

[Grumpy]

That's the same type of water line that comes directly from NORCOLD. Plastic water line is also sold at Lowes, Home Depot and others for ice makers. You will also find it in use for all the residential fridge installs.

[SloPoke]

Since this is now the second one I have replaced on an RV fridge, I realized that the plastic tube they supply might not be such a good choice with the tube being inches from the boiler unit. I decided to go with something that does not need to be replaced so often or is nearly as prone to age and cracking.

We were lucky that we were a few yards away from it when it leaked, and were able to address the situation right away before any water damage occurred. I strongly think that the plastic tube is the weakest link in the entire plumbing system on the Seneca... If we were away from the Seneca for the afternoon when it broke - we would have had a big problem.

[McGintys924]

I will be looking at that this weekend. I what size SE braided hose do you need to replace it with?

I did place a shut off to this line in the wet bay for better winter use. It is amazing how quickly this expensive truck can be damaged so severely.

[javamon]

Originally Posted by SloPoke

So... after removing the plastic tube and replacing with a stainless braided line, I inspected the original one and found that this tubing is not recommended for ice-makers. It lost about 80% of it's flexibility and eventually cracked at the outside radius.

WOW! What a disaster that could be. On the FS model, the gas heater (circuit board) is right below.

My ice maker supply line is a much sturdier white, flexible pvc (rated at 160 psi, cold water only) than the plastic line you are showing in photos #1 and #2. That looks like the plastic supply line used for indoor applications. If I had that line on my RV I would replace it immediately, even if it was brand new.

Your 3rd photo has me curious....why do you have two braided lines instead of just a short braided line from your PEX supply to your ice maker valve?

[RVermont]

I just inspected mine as that issue could cause huge damage. As it is I had a drip on one of those fittings last year and it shut the heater off due to water dripping onto the control board below the refrigerator. My line is viega pureflow icemaker line. I will look at replacing it with the stainless hose or connecting the pex directly to the fitting.

The hose from the solenoid to the actual ice maker is standard polyflow tubing I wonder if that is going to be an issue in the future. It is wrapped with heat tape to prevent freeze up so inspection of it is difficult.

[Grumpy]

Originally Posted by RVermont

The hose from the solenoid to the actual ice maker is standard polyflow tubing I wonder if that is going to be an issue in the future. It is wrapped with heat tape to prevent freeze up so inspection of it is difficult.

I know many who had the 1st Gen SENECA with the ice maker, including me, and nobody every mentioned any issues. I don't think anybody has every mentioned any problems on JOF with other rigs either.

[RVermont]

I dont remember seeing any posts either. I have used poly flow for twenty years in my stick built with no issues. Just interesting that he is having this issue twice.

[SloPoke]

Originally Posted by McGintys924

I will be looking at that this weekend. I what size SE braided hose do you need to replace it with?

I did place a shut off to this line in the wet bay for better winter use. It is amazing how quickly this expensive truck can be damaged so severely.

I used this from Home Depot, after an extensive search of other options that could be installed. One challenge was the short distance and the 90-degree turn that was required in a short space. I considered soft copper unit I found the braided line. Yes it is too long, but that allowed me to route it in a large loop. It is this one: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...2-EB/310730677

Originally Posted by javamon

WOW! What a disaster that could be. On the FS model, the gas heater (circuit board) is right below.

My ice maker supply line is a much sturdier white, flexible pvc (rated at 160 psi, cold water only) than the plastic line you are showing in photos #1 and #2. That looks like the plastic supply line used for indoor applications. If I had that line on my RV I would replace it immediately, even if it was brand new.

A disaster it was... I was so lucky to be right outside when the tube split. The pump was left on and water was spraying everywhere, it was spraying out the vent too. I was lucky as most of the water ran out the fridge vent door, but there was a gallon or more that made it to the floor and then it drained down the hole cut for wires into the lower storage bay. I pulled the grille cover off from the inside and used beach towels to remove the water as it began to flow under the fridge cabinet out on to the floor.

and yes, your supply tube is very much different than what they put on mine.

Originally Posted by javamon

Your 3rd photo has me curious....why do you have two braided lines instead of just a short braided line from your PEX supply to your ice maker valve?

It is one single braided line (60" long) and you are seeing it going behind the fridge in one big loop.

Originally Posted by RVermont

I just inspected mine as that issue could cause huge damage. As it is I had a drip on one of those fittings last year and it shut the heater off due to water dripping onto the control board below the refrigerator. My line is viega pureflow icemaker line. I will look at replacing it with the stainless hose or connecting the pex directly to the fitting.

The hose from the solenoid to the actual ice maker is standard polyflow tubing I wonder if that is going to be an issue in the future. It is wrapped with heat tape to prevent freeze up so inspection of it is difficult.

I looked for any markings on the tube that failed... There are no markings at all, which made me more skeptical if this was suitable for this use - especially with a huge heat source one inch away.

Originally Posted by Grumpy

I know many who had the 1st Gen SENECA with the ice maker, including me, and nobody every mentioned any issues. I don't think anybody has every mentioned any problems on JOF with other rigs either.

Until now... Maybe this is one of the many changes that Jayco made for 2015 that was marginally defective? Or maybe Jayco put different parts in mine that would be impacted by high heat exposure?

My intention of this post is to raise awareness for others, so they can take a moment and check, assess the risk and take action if needed.

[Grumpy]

Originally Posted by SloPoke

Until now... Maybe this is one of the many changes that Jayco made for 2015 that was marginally defective? Or maybe Jayco put different parts in mine that would be impacted by high heat exposure?

My intention of this post is to raise awareness for others, so they can take a moment and check, assess the risk and take action if needed.

That was in reference to his post about the NORCOLD lines with the heat tape, nothing regarding what you found.

[SloPoke]

Originally Posted by Grumpy

That was in reference to his post about the NORCOLD lines with the heat tape, nothing regarding what you found.

I went out and looked at the tube that goes from the solenoid valve to the Ice-maker (wrapped in heat tape) and sure enough - this is the same stuff as what they used at the supply line between the supply shut-off valve and the solenoid valve that failed on ours. (No markings, same appearance)

The water line that feeds the icemaker after the solenoid valve (in heat tape) is low pressure tubing and gets very little water pressure when the solenoid valve is open filling the icemaker tray. Maybe Jayco (or the person assembling mine) decided to use a scrap of the low pressure tube instead of what they put on RVermont's?

[Grumpy]

Originally Posted by SloPoke

I went out and looked at the tube that goes from the solenoid valve to the Ice-maker (wrapped in heat tape) and sure enough - this is the same stuff as what they used at the supply line between the supply shut-off valve and the solenoid valve that failed on ours. (No markings, same appearance)

The water line that feeds the icemaker after the solenoid valve (in heat tape) is low pressure tubing and gets very little water pressure when the solenoid valve is open filling the icemaker tray. Maybe Jayco (or the person assembling mine) decided to use a scrap of the low pressure tube instead of what they put on RVermont's?

The ice makers are on the fridge when delivered to JAYCO, they come from NORCOLD pre-assembled.

https://www.overtons.com/norcold-ref...B&gclsrc=aw.ds

https://www.campingworld.com/norcold...B&gclsrc=aw.ds

[SloPoke]

What a coincidence... an old friend who used to live down the street stopped by today and we had a couple of beers. While we were catching each other up, I tossed him the split tube. He laughed and shook his head with disbelief after inspecting it. He then wanted to see what I was installed in and what I replaced it with - I showed him.

He pointed out a number of issues and said that we were really lucky it lasted this long, and that the tube that was not for pressurized plumbing purposes, nor marked as safe for potable water. He asked to take it with him for his next apprentice class he teaches. He is a licensed Utah Residential Master Plumber and has his HVAC license too.

[Grumpy]

Originally Posted by SloPoke

He pointed out a number of issues and said that we were really lucky it lasted this long, and that the tube that was not for pressurized plumbing purposes, nor marked as safe for potable water. He asked to take it with him for his next apprentice class he teaches. He is a licensed Utah Residential Master Plumber and has his HVAC license too.

Then Lowes, Home Depot, Menards, Walmart & Amazon are all wrong since that is what they sell for Ice Makers. It's been used for decades..

https://www.lowes.com/pd/EASTMAN-25-...B&gclsrc=aw.ds

https://www.menards.com/main/p-1563517874511.htm

https://www.acehardware.com/departme...l-tubing/43429

https://www.amazon.com/slp/ice-maker...mh3rcjf5rg48vk

https://www.homedepot.com/p/John-Gue...B&gclsrc=aw.ds

RV Manufactures have to follow the RVIA plumbing code too.

Plumbing (NFPA 1192 2018 Edition)

2015 ANSI A119.5 PMRV Standard
Plumbing, Propane, Fire & Life Safety, Construction



Here is also a You Tube reparing a DOMETIC ice maker in another RV and guess what they used?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gRZMsWqai3A

[SloPoke]

Originally Posted by Grumpy

Then Lowes, Home Depot, Menards, Walmart & Amazon are all wrong since that is what they sell for Ice Makers. It's been used for decades..

https://www.lowes.com/pd/EASTMAN-25-...B&gclsrc=aw.ds

https://www.menards.com/main/p-1563517874511.htm

https://www.acehardware.com/departme...l-tubing/43429

https://www.amazon.com/slp/ice-maker...mh3rcjf5rg48vk

https://www.homedepot.com/p/John-Gue...B&gclsrc=aw.ds

RV Manufactures have to follow the RVIA plumbing code too.

Plumbing (NFPA 1192 2018 Edition)

2015 ANSI A119.5 PMRV Standard
Plumbing, Propane, Fire & Life Safety, Construction



Here is also a You Tube reparing a DOMETIC ice maker in another RV and guess what they used?

NOT the tube that was installed on OUR Seneca! What was taken out of our Seneca was a different product.

[tpastorini]

This just happened to us. only had the RV for 5 days. We don't plan on using the ice maker, so just going to leave the valve off.

[SloPoke]

Originally Posted by tpastorini

This just happened to us. only had the RV for 5 days. We don't plan on using the ice maker, so just going to leave the valve off.

Welcome to the Seneca family! Sorry your first experience was encountered so soon!

[david a judd]

Steve,

had exactly the same experience just last week in Utah. I just shut the valve off and forgot about it. We never use the icemaker anyway. Where did you get a braided stainless line that small?

[SloPoke]

Originally Posted by david a judd

Steve,

had exactly the same experience just last week in Utah. I just shut the valve off and forgot about it. We never use the icemaker anyway. Where did you get a braided stainless line that small?

Ordered it from Home Depot.com they delivered it.

I tried to find a shorter one, but a unintended benefit of the long one is - I unscrew the hose connector from the water valve and turn the shut-off valve on and can hose down anything in a 10' radius from the fridge. Ours is right behind the passenger cab door, washing off something was really easy.

Everbilt
1/4 in. Compression x 1/4 in. Compression x 60 in. Steel Braided Ice Maker Connector

Internet #310730677
Model # 7253-60-14-2-EB
UPC Code # 820633000006
Store SKU #1004650242