'21 28.5 RSTS Hot water pressure

[Chino]

Hello all,



Took FW out for first run of the season.
Figured I'd sanitize my tank and system at the park.

After sanitizing system I lost hot water pressure.

I was hooked up to park water. 30psi. Cold water pressure is normal, hot is just a trickle at all faucets. WP same thing.
Did some searching and seems to be hot water heater (Suburban 6 gal) one-way check valve??
Seems common problem on Jayco HT's?

One video the guy released incoming pressure, opened all faucets then left one open and slowly opened city water. He gained back most hot water pressure.

I tried it and got back maybe 1/3. Enough to get us through the trip.
Any thoughts??
Also I don't see any access to back of water heater.

TIA!

[JFlightRisk]

There might be a challenge to get to the suspect check valve on the rear of the water heater, but there's a slim possibility there's debris in the faucet screen that'll block the flow. Just something to check if you haven't already. The check valve will definitely give that symptom also. They're readily available at dealers, big box stores and Amazon too.

https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-P234.../dp/B00HJ6P0Z8

At Home Depot:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Valterra...15LF/309589109

[Chino]

Originally Posted by JFlightRisk

There might be a challenge to get to the suspect check valve on the rear of the water heater, but there's a slim possibility there's debris in the faucet screen that'll block the flow. Just something to check if you haven't already. The check valve will definitely give that symptom also. They're readily available at dealers, big box stores and Amazon too.

https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-P234.../dp/B00HJ6P0Z8

At Home Depot:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Valterra...15LF/309589109

Thanks.
Not the screens. Cold pressure is perfect.
I saw the check valves were inexpensive, just apparently hard to get to in this trailer. 😕

[Pilot5311]

I have a '22 Jayco Eagle HT28 and am having something similar. I'm on my fifth camping trip so everything is new. I have good hot water for a couple of minutes and then it loses pressure. Cold is strong. Hot goes to a trickle. All faucets. I shut the hot off for a few minutes and get pressure back, but just for a bit and then it goes to a trickle.

I've seen a couple videos that it's the check valve. Thoughts?

[Marcm157]

Both problems here sound like the check valve. I am not familiar enough with the layout to provide info on how to access it though.

[Pilot5311]

Thanks. I've been underneath where the HW tank is so I'll do a little more investigating to find the check valve.

[Chino]

Originally Posted by Pilot5311

Thanks. I've been underneath where the HW tank is so I'll do a little more investigating to find the check valve.

Pilot5311, sounds like we have the same issue. I've been under my trailer beneath WH and see no access short of removing or cutting underbelly cover. Then I still don't know it there is sufficient access to WH. I haven't been to my dealer yet, don't know if I want too.
If you discover anything please let me know. TIA

[Pilot5311]

Will do. I won't have time to work on mine for a couple days. When I do and if I find anything I'll let u know.

[jasonthegreyhawk]

Could you turn on the bypass for the water heater tank (like when winterizing) and therefore narrow the source?

Take my comment with a grain of salt but throwing it out there.

[RipinSC]

Check valve located in the rat nest of plumbing behind your water heater or water control panel. Follow the inlet plumbing from your water heater and you will see it.

[Pilot5311]

Thanks, all, for the ideas. Gives me some direction.

[Chino]

Originally Posted by Chino

Hello all,



Took FW out for first run of the season.
Figured I'd sanitize my tank and system at the park.

After sanitizing system I lost hot water pressure.

I was hooked up to park water. 30psi. Cold water pressure is normal, hot is just a trickle at all faucets. WP same thing.
Did some searching and seems to be hot water heater (Suburban 6 gal) one-way check valve??
Seems common problem on Jayco HT's?

One video the guy released incoming pressure, opened all faucets then left one open and slowly opened city water. He gained back most hot water pressure.

I tried it and got back maybe 1/3. Enough to get us through the trip.
Any thoughts??
Also I don't see any access to back of water heater.

TIA!

Took another trip. No repairs attempted.
Hot water pressure was completely normal. 4 days camping.
Go figure.....

[Pilot5311]

I've only had this camper a few months, made some rookie errors. Went to dealer. He said really unlikely its check valve. More likely the bypass valve. I went home, hooked it up to hose, flipped the bypass valve back and forth a few times. THEN (here's the rookie mistake) I opened up the hot water valves inside the RV and let the air out. I think (not positive) I had an air lock in the lines. I wasn't patient enough to let the lines blow out fully after initial hookup. Now I've got good pressure both hot and cold.

[cmikal]

Originally Posted by Chino

Hello all,



Took FW out for first run of the season.
Figured I'd sanitize my tank and system at the park.

After sanitizing system I lost hot water pressure.

I was hooked up to park water. 30psi. Cold water pressure is normal, hot is just a trickle at all faucets. WP same thing.
Did some searching and seems to be hot water heater (Suburban 6 gal) one-way check valve??
Seems common problem on Jayco HT's?

One video the guy released incoming pressure, opened all faucets then left one open and slowly opened city water. He gained back most hot water pressure.

I tried it and got back maybe 1/3. Enough to get us through the trip.
Any thoughts??
Also I don't see any access to back of water heater.

TIA!

I have a different rig (Northpoint FW), but had the same problem. I removed my check valve and screwed the water line directly into the tank. I had access to the back of the tank, so it was relatively easy. The water lines in RVs aren't very big, so they restrict flow to begin with, then the check valve inserts some plastic bits into the opening that restricts the flow even more, then, if the check valve fails and sticks closed or partially closed, you get minimal water flow.

So, I just removed mine. I guess it serves a purpose, but I haven't seen any bad things happen because mine has been removed, and that was over a year ago. If you don't feel comfortable just removing it without replacing it over the long term, you can still do it short term until you get a new one. Again, I didn't see any problems as a result of having mine removed.

If you replace it, see if there is a version that is better quality than the ones that come with the heater, otherwise you will probably be replacing it again in the future.

[garywilson]

Originally Posted by Chino

Took another trip. No repairs attempted.
Hot water pressure was completely normal. 4 days camping.
Go figure.....

Ahhhhh.... a gift!

[mavrick0]

Had the exact same issue with our 2020 28.5rsts right from the factor. Found that the plastic one way value had been over tightened and had distorted which wasn't allowing the valve to move freely. Replaced the plastic one with the Valterra brass one and never had an issue after that.

If you winterize your RV I would not recommend not having the check valve installed. This is what stops the winterizing antifreeze from entering the tank at that line.

[mdrafn]

I have the same issue with zero hot water pressure on city water in some cases (I think low city pressures). I purchased the Valterra valve ... where is the one to replace located on the tank? top, bottom? (I believe there are 2 check valves).


tia
_mark

[JFlightRisk]

The check valve for the hot line will be the top one. Cold flows in from the bottom one, and what looks like a check valve down there is probably a straight through plastic fitting.