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06-29-2019, 07:16 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 512
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Repacking bearings
I am planning to repack my bearings by hand. How many tubes of bearing grease would I need. I am NOT using a grease gun, but I am told that each hub requires about a full tube with a grease gun. So, would I need 4 tubes when packing by hand. Thanks in advance for your help.
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06-29-2019, 07:27 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Auburn, WA
Posts: 1,855
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If you are packing by hand I'm guessing you probably won't need even one tube. I like to keep two tubes on hand. If you use the E-Z Lube feature then yes, you would likely need several tubes. When you pull the hubs off just look at the large void between the inner and outer bearings. When you use the E-Z Lube that whole area has to be filled up completely with grease which is why it requires so much more than just the traditional hand-packing.
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TT: 2019 ORV Timber Ridge 23DBS, Blue Ox SwayPro 15K/1500
TV: 2019 Ford F-250 XLT SuperCab LB, 6.2L, 4.30/e-locker, 4x4, 164" WB, RoadActive Suspension, 3216 payload
TV: 2014 RAM 1500 Big Horn CC (Traded in)
TT: 2015 Jay Flight SLX 195RB Baja Edition, Andersen No-Sway (Traded in)
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06-29-2019, 07:53 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Windsor
Posts: 322
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ttavasc
If you are packing by hand I'm guessing you probably won't need even one tube. I like to keep two tubes on hand. If you use the E-Z Lube feature then yes, you would likely need several tubes. When you pull the hubs off just look at the large void between the inner and outer bearings. When you use the E-Z Lube that whole area has to be filled up completely with grease which is why it requires so much more than just the traditional hand-packing.
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What I see in the EZ lube diagrams is that the void in the center of the hub is not filled with grease, but the grease travels forward from the rear to the front as shown in this link:
https://www.wolverineforums.com/foru...alk-ezlube.jpg
Still can take a fair amount of grease, but I don't think you're filling the whole void in the center of the hub. Interested to see if anyone knows differently about this system, or, in my case, about the Lippert SuperLube system which is supposed to be similar and is what I have on my 2018 Jayco SLX 267BHSW with Lippert axles.
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06-29-2019, 08:04 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Michigan
Posts: 2,650
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Still can take a fair amount of grease, but I don't think you're filling the whole void in the center of the hub. Interested to see if anyone knows differently about this system, or, in my case, about the Lippert SuperLube system which is supposed to be similar and is what I have on my 2018 Jayco SLX 267BHSW with Lippert axles.[/QUOTE]
If you are going old school and packing by hand you wont use a grease gun and fill the hub. Here is a link from Dexter Axle on how to do it by hand, will be similar for Lippert Axles.
https://youtu.be/GnH-h3W9XvI
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06-29-2019, 08:06 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Auburn, WA
Posts: 1,855
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GL243
What I see in the EZ lube diagrams is that the void in the center of the hub is not filled with grease, but the grease travels forward from the rear to the front as shown in this link:
https://www.wolverineforums.com/foru...alk-ezlube.jpg
Still can take a fair amount of grease, but I don't think you're filling the whole void in the center of the hub. Interested to see if anyone knows differently about this system, or, in my case, about the Lippert SuperLube system which is supposed to be similar and is what I have on my 2018 Jayco SLX 267BHSW with Lippert axles.
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That diagram shows exactly the area that I was referencing. When I first started hand-packing the bearings after the 2 year Jayco warranty was out there was no mistake that the dealer simply used the E-Z Lube as there was a ton of grease to be removed in that area between the inner and outer bearing.
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TT: 2019 ORV Timber Ridge 23DBS, Blue Ox SwayPro 15K/1500
TV: 2019 Ford F-250 XLT SuperCab LB, 6.2L, 4.30/e-locker, 4x4, 164" WB, RoadActive Suspension, 3216 payload
TV: 2014 RAM 1500 Big Horn CC (Traded in)
TT: 2015 Jay Flight SLX 195RB Baja Edition, Andersen No-Sway (Traded in)
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07-12-2019, 07:08 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 512
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So, got busy greasing axle bearings yesterday. HORRIFIED to find brake linings nearly none existent. Brake linings (entire backplate) were "supposed" to have been replaced last May for grease contamination. Now, I did take a very long (10,000 mile) trip through the Canadian Rockies afterwards, but could linings have worn after 10000 miles? Thank God I decided to grease the bearings cuz we are scheduled to head north to the Catskills and Lake George. Will receive 4 new brake assemblies from e-trailer Tuesday.
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07-12-2019, 09:09 AM
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#9
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Site Team
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: James Island, SC
Posts: 22,859
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Whoever invented the brake assembly is right up there with Elton Carrier who invented the air conditioner. IMO
Remove the tire, pull the hub, remove/ reinstall 4 bolts and splice 2 wires. New brakes and shoes. Bingo
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07-12-2019, 10:01 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 512
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Quote:
Originally Posted by norty1
Whoever invented the brake assembly is right up there with Elton Carrier who invented the air conditioner. IMO
Remove the tire, pull the hub, remove/ reinstall 4 bolts and splice 2 wires. New brakes and shoes. Bingo
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X2
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2021 Coachmen Freelander 29KB
2019 Jeep Wrangler Sahara
NSA Ready Brute Elite II tow bar
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07-12-2019, 11:53 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Somerset
Posts: 400
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I just redid mine with Mobil 1. I have the EZ hub fittings. Buy 2 tubes and you will be fine. Thats 2 of the big tubes not the micro tubes.
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07-12-2019, 01:19 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Natalbany Creek Campground, Amite City, LA
Posts: 3,244
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Quote:
Originally Posted by norty1
Whoever invented the brake assembly is right up there with Elton Carrier who invented the air conditioner. IMO
Remove the tire, pull the hub, remove/ reinstall 4 bolts and splice 2 wires. New brakes and shoes. Bingo
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Shouldn't you turn the drums also?
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Formerly from Sequim, WA
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07-12-2019, 02:05 PM
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#13
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Site Team
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: James Island, SC
Posts: 22,859
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AKRUEBBE
Shouldn't you turn the drums also?
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Only if they need it. The hubs are approx. $80.00 bucks each if they can't be turned.
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2011- 351RLTS Eagle, MorRyde suspension/pin box,
2017- F350 6.7 PSD Lariat FX4,SRW, SB,CC
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Can't find what you're looking on JOF? Try Jayco Owners Forum Custom Google Search
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07-12-2019, 02:15 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 512
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AKRUEBBE
Shouldn't you turn the drums also?
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I would turn the drums on a car, but the drums on the trailer look good with no scoring or obvious wear, so no, I will not turn the trailer drums.
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07-12-2019, 04:16 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Michigan
Posts: 2,650
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This is another reason I would never use the EZ Lube system, have to take a look at seals and brake pads now and then, people dont do this just pumping grease in.
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07-12-2019, 05:20 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Oregon
Posts: 265
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So I just watched the video on packing wheelbearings, that was a good educational experience.
It looks like I need to order new seals and brakes to do this project.
I found the right seals, any idea how to figure out what brakes to get? Do I have to remove the tires to figure it out?
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07-13-2019, 03:52 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Way down here........FL
Posts: 2,099
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If you have the axle numbers from label on axles, Lippert or Dexter should be able to tell you what you have.........
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Jack
2016 Pinnacle 36 KPTS
2016 F350 Lariat CC LB dually 6.7
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07-15-2019, 06:53 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 512
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I've been studying while waiting for my new brake backing plates and I came across a question I hope someone might help with. The backing plate is secured with five 3/8"-24 grade 5 studs and nuts. The e-trailer info calls for 50-75 pounds of torque. Seems a little much to me. Generic torque charts call for about 32 pounds. Waiting for a call back from Lippert/Dexter. The backing plate goes on a 7000 pound axle with 12 inch diameter drum and 2 inch wide linings. I ordered # AKEBRK-7-SA from e-trailer.
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2021 Coachmen Freelander 29KB
2019 Jeep Wrangler Sahara
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07-15-2019, 07:21 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 512
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Springhook
I've been studying while waiting for my new brake backing plates and I came across a question I hope someone might help with. The backing plate is secured with five 3/8"-24 grade 5 studs and nuts. The e-trailer info calls for 50-75 pounds of torque. Seems a little much to me. Generic torque charts call for about 32 pounds. Waiting for a call back from Lippert/Dexter. The backing plate goes on a 7000 pound axle with 12 inch diameter drum and 2 inch wide linings. I ordered # AKEBRK-7-SA from e-trailer.
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OK, so e-trailer tech support now emailed me and said 30-50 pounds.
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2021 Coachmen Freelander 29KB
2019 Jeep Wrangler Sahara
NSA Ready Brute Elite II tow bar
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07-17-2019, 01:18 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Highlands
Posts: 654
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GL243
What I see in the EZ lube diagrams is that the void in the center of the hub is not filled with grease, but the grease travels forward from the rear to the front as shown in this link:
https://www.wolverineforums.com/foru...alk-ezlube.jpg
Still can take a fair amount of grease, but I don't think you're filling the whole void in the center of the hub. Interested to see if anyone knows differently about this system, or, in my case, about the Lippert SuperLube system which is supposed to be similar and is what I have on my 2018 Jayco SLX 267BHSW with Lippert axles.
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It does indeed fill the entire cavity. The white area you see in the middle is the spindle. If you use this method don't pump the grease in too fast. Allow time for the grease to make it's way through the hub or you can damage the seal. This method works great if done properly. The old grease is forced out the end of the hub as the new is going in. If it looks good, there is no reason to do a full repack. Depending on how many miles you put on your trailer it is a good idea to check the seals every year or two, more often if you tow a lot.
This is a common system on boat trailers that routinely get dunked completely under water. The sealing is very good and keeps most moisture out.
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Cliff
Jayflight 34RSBS
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