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Old 06-29-2019, 07:16 PM   #1
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Repacking bearings

I am planning to repack my bearings by hand. How many tubes of bearing grease would I need. I am NOT using a grease gun, but I am told that each hub requires about a full tube with a grease gun. So, would I need 4 tubes when packing by hand. Thanks in advance for your help.
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Old 06-29-2019, 07:24 PM   #2
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If you won't be needing to use a grease gun, might consider just buying it in a tub.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
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Old 06-29-2019, 07:27 PM   #3
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If you are packing by hand I'm guessing you probably won't need even one tube. I like to keep two tubes on hand. If you use the E-Z Lube feature then yes, you would likely need several tubes. When you pull the hubs off just look at the large void between the inner and outer bearings. When you use the E-Z Lube that whole area has to be filled up completely with grease which is why it requires so much more than just the traditional hand-packing.
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Old 06-29-2019, 07:45 PM   #4
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Buy one of these handy packers, makes quick work of packing, and stores extra grease. I bought a can of Mobil 1 grease and it packed 8 bearings.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Mobil-Synthet...19-spons&psc=1
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Old 06-29-2019, 07:53 PM   #5
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If you are packing by hand I'm guessing you probably won't need even one tube. I like to keep two tubes on hand. If you use the E-Z Lube feature then yes, you would likely need several tubes. When you pull the hubs off just look at the large void between the inner and outer bearings. When you use the E-Z Lube that whole area has to be filled up completely with grease which is why it requires so much more than just the traditional hand-packing.
What I see in the EZ lube diagrams is that the void in the center of the hub is not filled with grease, but the grease travels forward from the rear to the front as shown in this link:

https://www.wolverineforums.com/foru...alk-ezlube.jpg

Still can take a fair amount of grease, but I don't think you're filling the whole void in the center of the hub. Interested to see if anyone knows differently about this system, or, in my case, about the Lippert SuperLube system which is supposed to be similar and is what I have on my 2018 Jayco SLX 267BHSW with Lippert axles.
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Old 06-29-2019, 08:04 PM   #6
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Still can take a fair amount of grease, but I don't think you're filling the whole void in the center of the hub. Interested to see if anyone knows differently about this system, or, in my case, about the Lippert SuperLube system which is supposed to be similar and is what I have on my 2018 Jayco SLX 267BHSW with Lippert axles.[/QUOTE]

If you are going old school and packing by hand you wont use a grease gun and fill the hub. Here is a link from Dexter Axle on how to do it by hand, will be similar for Lippert Axles.

https://youtu.be/GnH-h3W9XvI
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Old 06-29-2019, 08:06 PM   #7
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What I see in the EZ lube diagrams is that the void in the center of the hub is not filled with grease, but the grease travels forward from the rear to the front as shown in this link:

https://www.wolverineforums.com/foru...alk-ezlube.jpg

Still can take a fair amount of grease, but I don't think you're filling the whole void in the center of the hub. Interested to see if anyone knows differently about this system, or, in my case, about the Lippert SuperLube system which is supposed to be similar and is what I have on my 2018 Jayco SLX 267BHSW with Lippert axles.
That diagram shows exactly the area that I was referencing. When I first started hand-packing the bearings after the 2 year Jayco warranty was out there was no mistake that the dealer simply used the E-Z Lube as there was a ton of grease to be removed in that area between the inner and outer bearing.
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Old 07-12-2019, 07:08 AM   #8
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So, got busy greasing axle bearings yesterday. HORRIFIED to find brake linings nearly none existent. Brake linings (entire backplate) were "supposed" to have been replaced last May for grease contamination. Now, I did take a very long (10,000 mile) trip through the Canadian Rockies afterwards, but could linings have worn after 10000 miles? Thank God I decided to grease the bearings cuz we are scheduled to head north to the Catskills and Lake George. Will receive 4 new brake assemblies from e-trailer Tuesday.
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Old 07-12-2019, 09:09 AM   #9
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Whoever invented the brake assembly is right up there with Elton Carrier who invented the air conditioner. IMO

Remove the tire, pull the hub, remove/ reinstall 4 bolts and splice 2 wires. New brakes and shoes. Bingo
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Old 07-12-2019, 10:01 AM   #10
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Whoever invented the brake assembly is right up there with Elton Carrier who invented the air conditioner. IMO

Remove the tire, pull the hub, remove/ reinstall 4 bolts and splice 2 wires. New brakes and shoes. Bingo
X2
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Old 07-12-2019, 11:53 AM   #11
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I just redid mine with Mobil 1. I have the EZ hub fittings. Buy 2 tubes and you will be fine. Thats 2 of the big tubes not the micro tubes.
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Old 07-12-2019, 01:19 PM   #12
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Whoever invented the brake assembly is right up there with Elton Carrier who invented the air conditioner. IMO

Remove the tire, pull the hub, remove/ reinstall 4 bolts and splice 2 wires. New brakes and shoes. Bingo
Shouldn't you turn the drums also?
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Old 07-12-2019, 02:05 PM   #13
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Shouldn't you turn the drums also?
Only if they need it. The hubs are approx. $80.00 bucks each if they can't be turned.
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Old 07-12-2019, 02:15 PM   #14
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Shouldn't you turn the drums also?
I would turn the drums on a car, but the drums on the trailer look good with no scoring or obvious wear, so no, I will not turn the trailer drums.
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Old 07-12-2019, 04:16 PM   #15
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This is another reason I would never use the EZ Lube system, have to take a look at seals and brake pads now and then, people dont do this just pumping grease in.
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Old 07-12-2019, 05:20 PM   #16
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So I just watched the video on packing wheelbearings, that was a good educational experience.


It looks like I need to order new seals and brakes to do this project.


I found the right seals, any idea how to figure out what brakes to get? Do I have to remove the tires to figure it out?
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Old 07-13-2019, 03:52 AM   #17
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If you have the axle numbers from label on axles, Lippert or Dexter should be able to tell you what you have.........
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Old 07-15-2019, 06:53 PM   #18
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I've been studying while waiting for my new brake backing plates and I came across a question I hope someone might help with. The backing plate is secured with five 3/8"-24 grade 5 studs and nuts. The e-trailer info calls for 50-75 pounds of torque. Seems a little much to me. Generic torque charts call for about 32 pounds. Waiting for a call back from Lippert/Dexter. The backing plate goes on a 7000 pound axle with 12 inch diameter drum and 2 inch wide linings. I ordered # AKEBRK-7-SA from e-trailer.
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Old 07-15-2019, 07:21 PM   #19
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I've been studying while waiting for my new brake backing plates and I came across a question I hope someone might help with. The backing plate is secured with five 3/8"-24 grade 5 studs and nuts. The e-trailer info calls for 50-75 pounds of torque. Seems a little much to me. Generic torque charts call for about 32 pounds. Waiting for a call back from Lippert/Dexter. The backing plate goes on a 7000 pound axle with 12 inch diameter drum and 2 inch wide linings. I ordered # AKEBRK-7-SA from e-trailer.
OK, so e-trailer tech support now emailed me and said 30-50 pounds.
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Old 07-17-2019, 01:18 PM   #20
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What I see in the EZ lube diagrams is that the void in the center of the hub is not filled with grease, but the grease travels forward from the rear to the front as shown in this link:



https://www.wolverineforums.com/foru...alk-ezlube.jpg



Still can take a fair amount of grease, but I don't think you're filling the whole void in the center of the hub. Interested to see if anyone knows differently about this system, or, in my case, about the Lippert SuperLube system which is supposed to be similar and is what I have on my 2018 Jayco SLX 267BHSW with Lippert axles.
It does indeed fill the entire cavity. The white area you see in the middle is the spindle. If you use this method don't pump the grease in too fast. Allow time for the grease to make it's way through the hub or you can damage the seal. This method works great if done properly. The old grease is forced out the end of the hub as the new is going in. If it looks good, there is no reason to do a full repack. Depending on how many miles you put on your trailer it is a good idea to check the seals every year or two, more often if you tow a lot.

This is a common system on boat trailers that routinely get dunked completely under water. The sealing is very good and keeps most moisture out.
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