Running generator

[ahill261]

Dear Members,
I just purchased a 2015 Pinnacle with the generator option. I have RV'ed for 51 years but never had a generator in my RV. Could you please provide me with any special instructions on things that I should do when operating the unit with the generator rather than AC shore power. I know the the unit should not be plugged into shore power when running (routinely testing) the generator but that is about all of the knowledge I have. Thanks for responding, in advance, to the "rookie!"

[Grumpy]

Originally Posted by ahill261

I know the the unit should not be plugged into shore power when running (routinely testing) the generator but that is about all of the knowledge I have. Thanks for responding, in advance, to the "rookie!"

It's best to have all loads off when you start the geny. Other than that nothing special.

[JimD]

If you run the generator with a heavy load for a period of time you should go through a cool down cycle before turning off. Once the load is removed just let it run for 5-10 minutes without a big load before turning off.

Download the owner's manual from Onan (I assume that brand) so you can see the maintenance schedule. Oil changes, air filter, spark plug, fuel filter are things that are changed now and then.

Run the generator every month if it hasn't been used. They recommend 1/2 load for a couple of hours but I tend to increase the load and only do an hour. This is very important! Failure to do this will probably mean you will be replacing the carb as they tend to gum up when old gas is allowed to sit in them. Running the generator also removes moisture buildup inside.

[edatlanta]

My Onan is gasoline powered and my normal routine is (10 years now and perfect performance from the Onan):

Always keep Stabilizer in the gas
Run under a good load for one hour each month (never fail)
Change oil and filters annually

Turn off all loads in the rig
Turn off main breaker at the power pedestal before starting generator
Start generator and after a minute of so to warm up, put a load on it. I use two a/c's in the summer and 2-3 electric heaters in the winter.
After the hour I turn off all the loads, wait a minute or so for the gen to cool down a bit and shut it down.
Turn on the main breaker
Turn all loads that you use back on

It has a little over 600 hours on it now and never a single issue.

[Cavie]

No need to turn anything off. There is a built-in time delay. It will not switch under load.

[Mopar_Earl]

Originally Posted by Cavie

No need to turn anything off. There is a built-in time delay. It will not switch under load.

Correct. No need to open breakers/turn off loads as the transfer switch has a warm-up delay.

Now when you shut it down, it's best to do a cool-down with no loads on it. I just open the main breaker in the trailer and let it cool down and shut it down.


Earl

[Grumpy]

Originally Posted by Cavie

No need to turn anything off. There is a built-in time delay. It will not switch under load.

Originally Posted by Mopar_Earl

Correct. No need to open breakers/turn off loads as the transfer switch has a warm-up delay.

Earl

EXCEPT you get arching on the contacts so it is recommended that it not be under load.

Section 6: Electrical System
Before starting the generator
1. Make sure the carbon monoxide detector is working.
2. Turn “off” air conditioners and all other 120-volt appliances.
3. Check for fuel, exhaust and coolant leaks

[JimD]

Relays, in this case transfer switches, are made to handle small amounts of arcing. In fact, some arcing can actually be good for a relay contact.

Over the years I have found that switches and relays that switch no loads can get resistive contacts and then fail. The same items when used to switch some sort of load tended to last longer, as long as you weren't arcing and sparking the things. The small arcing more or less cleaned the contact face.

In the case of a transfer switch, as long as you remove all major loads you should be fine. Don't switch with the AC running. If the only thing pulling 120 volt power is the converter at the time of switching states, there should be no problem.

I contacted Progressive Dynamics, the manufacturer of my transfer switch, and asked them about switching states with a small load such as the converter. They said there was absolutely no problem with that low of a load.

[Mopar_Earl]

Originally Posted by Grumpy

EXCEPT you get arching on the contacts so it is recommended that it not be under load.

Section 6: Electrical System
Before starting the generator
1. Make sure the carbon monoxide detector is working.
2. Turn “off” air conditioners and all other 120-volt appliances.
3. Check for fuel, exhaust and coolant leaks

It's made to switch under load. They are regular contactors. Contractors are rated for full load during pull-in. Relays are too. Same as manual and automatic transfer switches on standby gensets. Small automatic transfer switches are usually contactor base too.

I load mine hard. Both ac units and such on when the contactor pulls in. Not an issue nor do I worry about it. That little 0nan takes it like a champ! Guess that's due to my electrical background as a generator tech and as a power plant op, sup and now manager over 7 power plants.

Earl

[Grumpy]

Originally Posted by Mopar_Earl

It's made to switch under load. They are regular contactors. Contractors are rated for full load during pull-in. Relays are too. Same as manual and automatic transfer switches on standby gensets. Small automatic transfer switches are usually contactor base too.

I load mine hard. Both ac units and such on when the contactor pulls in. Not an issue nor do I worry about it. That little 0nan takes it like a champ! Guess that's due to my electrical background as a generator tech and as a power plant op, sup and now manager over 7 power plants.

Earl

I'm not talking about the geny, it's the low end transfer switches that fail. Why does JAYCO say REMOVE all loads?

[Mopar_Earl]

Originally Posted by Grumpy

I'm not talking about the geny, it's the low end transfer switches that fail. Why does JAYCO say REMOVE all loads?

My transfer switch is contractor based. So I let it switch under full load. Jayco doesn't make the genest nor the switches and barely can install them. Mine was laying in the basement as the twig they mounted it on broke. All the lugs were loose too. Low or high grade, a contractor is designed to be switched at it's rated amps. You don't have to.

I have an 18 year old contactor on a 8hp well pump at my original power plant, it cycles every 10 minutes or so 24/7/365. Nothing taxes a contactor like a motor load. We have hundreds of contactors at each plant. Mostly running motor loads which causes high inrush amp draw. Almost all your arching comes on release, not pull-in.

A contactor wouldn't be usable if you couldn't energize it under load.

The number one killer of rv transfer switches are low voltages and surges on the utility side. That's why they always recommend surge protectors to be used before the transfer switch and not after. Next would be factory installation issues. RV transfer switches need to be mounted in an approved position and lugs fully torqued to the proper spec. I had a lug so loose I pulled the wire right out of the lug. That's how stuff gets destroyed.

You're welcome to switch under full load, partial or no load by choice. I always recommend a no load cool-down period of 5 minutes. Another choice. Lot of people shut their gensets down underload.

Note, a voltage surge protector is also contactor based and will switch no problem under full load. It will do this when you're not even there.

Note, your transfer switch will switch during power blips/outages. Power goes out for 10 minutes, when it comes back, that transfer switch will switch under whatever loads are on, whether you're there or not.


Earl