Schwintek issue on heavy slide

[cgbrooks]

I just got my 36FBTS out of the repair shop after 2 months. My kitchen slide malfunctioned and stripped out the front bottom track and both gears.Final bill was $1200.

It seems to be working fine now.

[ETCrockett]

Originally Posted by cgbrooks

I just got my 36FBTS out of the repair shop after 2 months. My kitchen slide malfunctioned and stripped out the front bottom track and both gears.Final bill was $1200.

It seems to be working fine now.

Wow! Was there anything that started happening that indicated something was going wrong or was one catastrophic failure? If there were warning signs, it would be could to know what to look for.

Glad you are fixed up and back in action!

[Newt5005]

Something that took me a year and a half to figure out ( with no help from my dealer or Jayco) was keeping the button pressed until AFTER the motors stopped running.
Took multiple trips to the repair shop to get the slide working correctly, much like your condition. You’d thing Jayco or the Dealers would do a better job on their end.

[mia389]

Glad you got it fixed.

Schwinteks have two motors. One on each side located at the top. There is no setting to adjust for the out and in adjustment. Once the motors have so much resistance they amp out and stop. You can send more amps temporarily by rocking the switch in the opposite direction and then back to the original direction and hold it. This sends extra amps to the motors. When you do this with the slide out all the way out or in, it also syncs the room up to the wall. Its good to do this from time to time to keep the room in sync with wall.

Example. Extend the slideout all the way out. When it stops, hit retract and then immediately hit extend and hold it. You will hear the motors hum a bit and may see the room adjust a bit. Do this three times.

You can also do this while retracting room. When room is all the way retracted, rock switch to extend then back to retract and hold it.

When you stop the slideout in middle travel and start it again, it can start to get the motors out of sync. If so you can just sync it back up.

I show this procedure to customers when they pick up their camper if it has a schwintek. Some, may never have to do it.

[cgbrooks]

Surprisingly the only warning was a sudden grinding noise while trying to retract the slide. I couldn't tell what was wrong initially but just wanted the slide in so I could get it to a repair shop.
The tech thinks the lower front gear failed and stripped out the last 6 inches of the track. It took 3 1/2 weeks to get the parts, the repair itself wasn't too bad.

[Camper TD]

Originally Posted by ETCrockett

I need some advice regarding an issue I'm having with a Schwintek slide on a 2016 Pinnacle 38FLSA. The issue is on the heavy kitchen slide which has the residential fridge, stove, oven, and microwave. When I go to extend the slide, the motor on the fridge side comes on but barely moves a couple of inches before stopping and the motor on the opposite side keeps going full speed. I have to push on the fridge side so it will keep up with the other side. The motor is running and moving the slide while I'm pushing, but by itself the fridge side motor cannot keep up with the other motor. I have checked the tracks outside once extended and I don't see any wear or damage to the slide or the tracks. This happens even when I'm connected to shore power. I have not checked the voltage at the motor to see if it is getting the required 8 to 12 volts (per the manual). I assumed with shore power I should be bypassing the batteries for power to these motors. My thoughts were that I just have a motor going bad. The tech at the dealership suggested it may just be the motors on the slide are out of sync putting one side in a bind. He suggested I follow the steps to re-synchronize the motors before bringing it in to the dealership for repair. Has anyone had this issue where it is caused by the motors being out of sync? I have to say I believe the fridge side of the slide has always trailed the other side by an inch or so, but has always finished flush to the interior wall when extending or flush to the exterior wall when retracted. Could this over time cause the motor to loose the zero-point to the point it is too far behind the other side and just gets in a bind? If so, then re-syncing the motors is worth a try. The slide retracts fine, but the fridge side trails the other side by half inch to an inch.

I have an appointment at the dealership on Jan 2nd to take it in to hope it is covered under Jayco's 2 year warranty (which runs out on January 6th). I have a feeling Jayco is going to claim it is a Lippert component issue and Lippert is going to say Jayco should not have installed the component on the heavy slide. Bottom line is if it is not under warranty, I'd rather change the motor myself. The cost of the motor is between $150 and $250 depending on which one it is. I figure with the part mark up and labor, I'm looking at about a $500 to $700 repair bill from the dealership. The Lippert online videos for changing the motor makes it look very simple. Has anyone ever changed one of these motors themselves? If so, any advice you can pass along will be most helpful.

First off, the slides and most all other mechanical functions run off DC. Hooking up to power only recharges batteries. Which is a good thing to do, as I have noticed considerable drain when I don't hook up when leveling or extending slides. We also have had considerable problems with our kitchen Slide. There is a great app myLCI which has all the technical codes and steps for troubleshooting these components. The slide controller utilizes what's called a HAL signal, which is constantly keeping track of position and motor draw. I believe if you follow the steps for desync in the manual on the app it might help. But we've had 2 motors, a new control, and new wire harness installed and it still has problems. Sometimes I have to tip the trailer with the levelers to one side or the other to extend and retract.
Tim