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Old 11-17-2015, 06:01 PM   #21
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That's 2 of us. I have had about every type / brand and couldn't be happier with the Andersen.
ETEX211,didnt you have a Reese Goosebox for sale a while back or was that another Sulphur Springs RV'er?

I've still got it. You know anybody that's interested?

Here is my craigslist ad. I've also got it listed in the classified section of this forum...

http://easttexas.craigslist.org/pts/5270429251.html
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Old 11-17-2015, 06:03 PM   #22
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Ok, what about the 'chucking' while towing. Do you not get that still with the Anderson, since there is nothing to absorbs the shocks.

Dave...

I don't get any chucking with the Andersen. I believe the chucking is caused by the leverage created by the gooseneck tube, not by the actual hitch connection.
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Old 11-18-2015, 02:59 PM   #23
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Ok, what about the 'chucking' while towing. Do you not get that still with the Anderson, since there is nothing to absorbs the shocks.

Dave...
NO FRICKIN CHUCKIN, BUCKIN,BANGIN,CLANGIN .one more time,best hitch you can get without going to a $2500+ air hitch,IMHO.
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Old 11-18-2015, 04:19 PM   #24
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I read a story here a while back about gooseneck doing some serious damage.
It was a guy who bought a used 5th wheel who the previous owner used a gooseneck adapter on.
He changed it back to 5th wheel only to find the frame all broken up. He didn't notice at first, towed for quite a while when he noticed the trailer basically resting on the bed rails of his truck.
Luckily he found a mobile welder to come out to the campground he was stuck at.
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Old 11-18-2015, 05:29 PM   #25
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NO FRICKIN CHUCKIN, BUCKIN,BANGIN,CLANGIN .one more time,best hitch you can get without going to a $2500+ air hitch,IMHO.
OK, so help me understand how this is possible? If everything is Fixed, how does do the road expansion joints Not transfer from the Trailer to the Truck?
If I add the MOR/ryde onto the Kin Pin, the Andersen Adapter will need to be Welded to the MOR/ryde plate. According to their web site.

Dave...
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Old 11-18-2015, 06:40 PM   #26
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The Anderson has an aluminum milled block that you pound onto the king pin and torque down the allen set screws to hold it in place.

Mor Ryde or stock pin there is no welding required for the Anderson Ultimate hitch.

But, if you need to drop off your rig for warranty work you will need to leave your hitch and hope the dealer can accept a goose hitch.
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Old 11-18-2015, 10:25 PM   #27
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X2 for the Andersen
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Old 11-19-2015, 09:34 PM   #28
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The Anderson has an aluminum milled block that you pound onto the king pin and torque down the allen set screws to hold it in place.

Mor Ryde or stock pin there is no welding required for the Anderson Ultimate hitch.

But, if you need to drop off your rig for warranty work you will need to leave your hitch and hope the dealer can accept a goose hitch.
You don't know how the adapter works obviously.No pounding,fits on pin then 2 bolts secure like jaws on old style hitch,4 screws then are tightened .Takes about 2minutes to remove.
I have no explanation as to smoothness but it works.your welcome to stop by & take a ride.
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Old 11-19-2015, 09:44 PM   #29
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Ok I think I've done enough reading / research to make my decision. I'm going with the Andersen Ultimate Gooseneck. With their $5 Million rider I have no concerns with using their product. It will work perfect with my B&W Turnover ball & Firestone Ride-Rite Airbags.

Thanks,
Dave...
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Old 11-19-2015, 09:57 PM   #30
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=Larry G.;356177]Agree Grumpy.

I don't even remember the last time I saw someone using a gooseneck to pull a 5ver. I do see some pickup trucks pulling horse trailers once in awhile though.
I would think pulling a Horse trailer (using a Gooseneck) the owners would be Much more worried about Live Animals vers a Camper, no? Maybe the (idea) of using a Gooseneck to tow a camper just hasn't caught-on as much Yet. Doesn't mean it's not better or safer. After all, Lipert has already started to endorse the Reese Gooseneck with their frames. That tells me, they've done more research than I have.

Just My .02 cents.

Dave...
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