Winterizing First-Timer

Crhubbard · 09-05-2018, 02:05 PM

Need help. I own a 2012 Eagle HT Super Lite (26.5’) and am in the process of winterizing. I’ve drained the low point drains, drained the hot water heater, blown the water lines out and am now trying to introduce the antifreeze into the water lines, but can’t seem to find any shutoff valves to isolate the hot water heater/tank. The lines going into and out of the hot water heater are located behind the toilet, but no valves to isolate the tank. Can anyone help? Thank you.

vcbice · 09-06-2018, 09:16 PM

Mine has the bypass and shutoff valves for the water heater on the back of the water heater. I have to remove a drawer to get at them. Before running the antifreeze make sure to close the low point drain valves.

To add antifreeze you have to find the 'country fill' hose. I have to access mine from the pass through storage compartment on the driver's side. The rear panel has an access hatch secured by two screws. Remove those screws and you can see into the mess of water lines and electrical lines behind the outside water connection.

To make it work you need to look at the valve settings in the owners manual. The clear hose goes into the antifreeze container. Flip the valves to the correct position and turn on the water pump. Then cycle each of the faucets until you see pink water.

harryjr · 09-07-2018, 05:02 PM

On my 2011 30.5RLS Eagle, access to the bypass valves is behind the ventilation cover beneath the refrigerator. From the door slide across the floor on your stomach holding the flashlight in your mouth. Remove the four screws, remove the cover. Valves are conveniently located under the fridge.

After the second year, put toothpicks and glue in the holes because the screws no longer hold. I'd like to have a brief talk with some of the design engineers some night in a dark alley. I'll be the guy with a baseball bat. Do they ever try to use the product they design?

oldmanAZ · 09-07-2018, 06:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by harryjr

snip...
I'd like to have a brief talk with some of the design engineers some night in a dark alley. I'll be the guy with a baseball bat. Do they ever try to use the product they design?

Back in the day when I was an auto mechanic, I felt the same way!

jal0710 · 09-08-2018, 08:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Crhubbard

Need help. I own a 2012 Eagle HT Super Lite (26.5’) and am in the process of winterizing. I’ve drained the low point drains, drained the hot water heater, blown the water lines out and am now trying to introduce the antifreeze into the water lines, but can’t seem to find any shutoff valves to isolate the hot water heater/tank. The lines going into and out of the hot water heater are located behind the toilet, but no valves to isolate the tank. Can anyone help? Thank you.

If you have a 26.5 RLS, I can tell you that the by-pass valves are on the side of the water heater behind the wall, towards the back of the trailer, that is in the storage passthrough. Look for a little square cover with some screws in it, take the cover off and look inside the opening and you should find three valves. Turn the lower and upper ones to the side and then turn the middle one to be in-line with the piping. That should make the by-pass work. As for the antifreeze, there should be a hose inside the trailer attached to the water pump that will draw the antifreeze out of the bottle and into the lines. I won a 2012 26.5 RLS and that's the way my system works. Although, I haven't bothered with putting antifreeze in the lines, just in the P traps. Seems to have worked so far, as long as you remember to open all the low point drains, drain the water heats and blow out "all" the places where water comes out; sinks, toilet, showers(inside and outside) and outside sink near the entry door.

PlayersZ28 · 09-09-2018, 12:33 PM

I only blow out the lines and pink the drains. I don't pump it into the lines as it takes too long to get it out. I made a line to fit the airline and screw onto the city fill inlet using an old piece of garden hose.

LuckyDuck · 09-09-2018, 01:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PlayersZ28

I only blow out the lines and pink the drains. I don't pump it into the lines as it takes too long to get it out. I made a line to fit the airline and screw onto the city fill inlet using an old piece of garden hose.

Z28, do you just hook it to your air compressor and blow out the lines? I went looking for a quick-connect blowout plug yesterday to do just that. Found a cheap plastic Camco one but it said to use an oil-free compressor. Mine’s an oil-lubed. Any problems with that?

PlayersZ28 · 09-10-2018, 05:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LuckyDuck

Z28, do you just hook it to your air compressor and blow out the lines? I went looking for a quick-connect blowout plug yesterday to do just that. Found a cheap plastic Camco one but it said to use an oil-free compressor. Mine’s an oil-lubed. Any problems with that?

I use an oil-free compressor usually but in the past have used an oil lubed one. If the compressor is any good it shouldn't put out oil, check by blowing air through something like a towel or coffee filter. I have a piece of garden hose with a blow nozzle pushed into it. Then I pressurize the lines while my wife goes around opening taps one at a time. The water heater gets blown out too.

LuckyDuck · 09-10-2018, 10:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PlayersZ28

I use an oil-free compressor usually but in the past have used an oil lubed one. If the compressor is any good it shouldn't put out oil, check by blowing air through something like a towel or coffee filter. I have a piece of garden hose with a blow nozzle pushed into it. Then I pressurize the lines while my wife goes around opening taps one at a time. The water heater gets blown out too.

I’ve got a new Craftsman hotdog compressor — but great idea on the filter test. Thanks for the info!

You may also like: