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Old 05-19-2014, 11:14 AM   #21
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Like I said I hade the same thing happen only having new trailer about 1 month and converter went bad and had to be replaced. but at your converter you will have dc auto type fuses it could be a coulpe of bad dc fuses would chect that first.
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Old 05-19-2014, 11:15 AM   #22
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Even if the battery is dead or disconnected if the converter is getting power to it through 110V it will provide the 12V systems the necessary power. It sounds like your converter is not powered on (or blown fuses internally). You might hear a small computer like fan when you trip it on. Not always, but under high load it will to keep it cool.

Also you might find that the other few items not kicking on 110V breakers are tripped. The fridge can do either and under auto will always default to 110V if available and the breaker is on. Perhaps you also might have a GFCI tripped resulting is some further issues with system.

Water pump is 12V, hot water tank is 12Vand gas or electric, but must have the breaker on for 110V. Even if the red light is on the panel it's not on unless the 110V breaker is on.

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Old 05-19-2014, 11:22 AM   #23
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i will check the fuses, i think they are 40 amps? i think the converter fuses are where the fuses are in the fuse box? Hopefully...
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Old 05-19-2014, 11:51 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by Carpenter61 View Post
It is good for about 8 to 10 hours and drains again,
I would still double check the battery to see if it is able to hold a charge..
Disconnect the battery from the TT and charge the battery with the external battery charger. Once charged, disconnect the charger, do not connect the battery back up to the TT, take a voltage reading. Wait the 8 - 10 hours and take another voltage reading. It should be almost the same as after you charged it. If the voltage is OK, your battery is not the culprit. Is the water level of the cells OK?

Check the TT's battery charge controller output:
The easiest way to check TT's battery charge controller is to pull the 30Amp fuse by the battery and with a voltage meter:
- Check the fuse holder on the TT side for 12 - 13 VDC
- Check the fuse holder on the Battery side for 12 - 13 VDC
(ground the meter lead to the TT frame)

If you do not have voltage on the TT side of the fuse holder, you may have:
- a bad connection at the TT's battery charger?
- a battery charge that is not producing a charging voltage?
- a bad wire between the battery charger and the fuse holder?
- reverse polarity fuse blown?

If you have a 12+ VDC on each side of the fuse holder, you can start to isolate the drain. I can give you a few tips on an easy way to do that if you have a volt meter that has an 10 Amp reading capability.

If you do not have 12+ VDC on the TT side of the fuse holder your next step is to open up the TT's power panel and check the output lead to the battery.

Good Luck

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Old 05-19-2014, 06:18 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Carpenter61 View Post
when the battery is drained we put it on our battery charger it show you what is remaining on the battery that is still charged. And yes we can run microwave, tv, all plugs work on 110V. What doesnt work only on 110v is fridge, hot water tank, water pump, i assume we battery and 110 to run those and when the battery drains they dont work.
Do you ever just charge the battery while connected to to the taller and shore power?

I know these queries are tedious, but it sounds like you are charging the battery on a small portable charger with a basic red yellow green style meter ....

The converter in the TT is a formitable charger for your battery.
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Old 06-02-2014, 12:53 PM   #26
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If you disconnected the battery and it discharged over night it has a bad cell. Have the battery checked with a load on it.
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Old 06-02-2014, 02:47 PM   #27
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Check all fuses in the converter. FIL had same issue this past weekend and found 2 40amp fuses blown in the converter. Replaced the fuses and the battery started charging again.
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Old 06-02-2014, 06:13 PM   #28
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Why is the power at the campground called "shore power".
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