Quote:
Originally Posted by skids
That thing below the over-pressure device in the plastic sleeve is a thermal cut-off device. They are cheaper than buying a new control board! You can quickly check to see if it is faulty by bypassing it with a jumper wire to see if the water heater starts. I had one fail and we survived our trip with a jumper wire. It was lucky because the showers were closed during covid concerns. You can get a couple of them fore about 15 bucks from amazon.
|
Thank you skids. You were right but it was only a part of the issue. The cause was the usual spider web inside the gas pipe close to the igniter all the way inside the water heater. The damn spider web (slowed down) the air/gas mixture and caused it to ignite correctly but back flow from the ignited all the way to where you regulate the gas/air mixture, I saw fire coming out from the air/gas regulator and actually touching the thermal cut-off device causing it to trip. I am amazed that the RV did not catch fire at all. I am also amazed that Jaco did not issue a safety recall because if it. This is a fire safety issue.
Anyways enough of the /sarc.
Also the 2 thermostat assembly units are just loose and almost detached from the heater. My RV is less than 2 years old.
But now that I have resolved the issue with the gas side of the equation, the electric side of the unit does not work either. All I hear is a high pitch sound coming out of the heater but the electric heater does not work at all.
I have included the amazon link for the thermostats and the thermal cut-off unit for others to check out.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Linear Mode
