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Old 02-24-2018, 06:29 PM   #21
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Jimp, I've got a 2016 23MDS, loaded wt. app. 7500#. Pulled it the first year with the wifes 2005 f-150, 5.4 automatic. Added cold-air induction, chiped it, added air shocks. Towed fine on most trips but as a retired trucker I'll tell you if your going to be doing serious mountain driving, long grades of any more than 6% can get hairy. As a precaution I replaced all my brake fluid with synthetic (much higher boiling temp). After a year I traded the Ford in on a 2016 3/4 Chevy gasser. Did a 9,500 mile trip from Ca. to Virginia and back and can tell you there was a way big difference. Much less stress, better fuel mileage, and could hold everything I wanted to in the truck bed.
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Old 02-25-2018, 07:30 AM   #22
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Thanks for the all comments, I do appreciate them all.

We have talked about some trips out west, but no real plans yet. I would like to make some extended trips but since we haven't purchased anything "yet", it will be a while. LOL
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Old 02-25-2018, 07:55 AM   #23
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Quote:
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MC, if I could have made a PU fit in my garage, that would have been my 1st choice. Would like to have been in your position.

The JGC with the diesel is a capable TV. With a shorter wheel base than a PU also limited in my opinion, what a comfortable tow length is for this vehicle.

So I had to match the TT to my TV limits. With a lot of research trying to find the right floor plan, length, weight and quality, I settled on the 23RLSW.

It tows well but as I stated, I feel for me it at the limits I feel comfortable with.

Towing out west where 90% of my vacations are, is a different horse to ride than say living in the Midwest and towing there.

A lot of considerations to factor in when deciding what to buy.

Safety should be paramount in that decision.
I am fortunate in that my 2500, even with the snowplow on it, fits in my heated garage. Not much room left to walk around, but can still squeeze by when the garage door is closed.

It can indeed be different out west compared to the midwest, but that is dependent on where one goes to. It can be just as tricky to get into some dispersed camping areas of the midwest. Maybe not a 7 mile hill climb like out west, but still some pretty steep grades and tight cornering. There are a couple of hills on the gravel road to my home in Iowa that are steeper grades than most highway grades out west. Just not as long, obviously. But then, a lot of people make comparisons about areas of the country based on major highway running only.

Anyone who likes to try and make these comparisons, I recommend they give U.S. Hwy 20 from Dubuque, IA to Stockton, IL (a major traffic route) a try sometime with a 30ft trailer behind them and see how easy it is. Especially at night. And SE Ohio can really be a white knuckle experience towing on some of those rural highways in Amish country. Southern Indiana has some interesting areas that are great for camping, but a PITA to yank a trailer around. I have over 5 million commercial driving miles under my seat and have driven all 48 and Alaska along with most of the provinces of Canada except the Atlantic ones. Each area has unique situations the can be compared with other areas.

The only major difference is elevations. Greater than 6% grades are not a out west exclusive.
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Old 02-25-2018, 08:31 AM   #24
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We tow our 23RBM with a 1500 RAM Hemi with 3.55 rearend. The truck does pretty well overall. For me personally, this size TT is on the margins that I will tow with a 1/2 ton; I would go as big as a 24RBS, but I think I would stop there. This is just my personal preference for comfort, safety, and vehicle wear and tear considerations. I am definitely on the conservative side with TV expectations and my willingness to press TV margins.

Our TV does well on most grades, but the big nasty ones in the West would be a workout. We towed up and over Hwy 8 out of AZ into CA with a large (3,000lb) highwall PUP. The truck did really well, but I would want a 2500 for that type of drive with our 23RBM. For most of our travel the 1500 is solid enough. We are likely going bigger with our next RV. If it is a TT or 5er, we will go with a 2500.

I am putting tow max performance brakes on our RAM this summer. Power and handling are less of an issue with our RAM. The brakes work, but I want more out of them for hilly and curvy terrain, unexpected stops, and congested areas.
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Old 02-25-2018, 08:58 AM   #25
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FF, you make a good point. It is not just about power, it is about overall capability. There is a significant difference in frames, brakes, suspensions, etc between 1/2 tons / large SUV's and 3/4 ton pickups. It is the primary reason I have opted for many years to keep my minimum requirements for a TV to 3/4 ton. I tried a 1/2 ton once and I was inventing new swear words over the experience. I took a hit by getting rid of it, but never regretted doing so and going back to a 3/4 ton.

And what makes getting a 3/4 ton an easier decision, is that it is quite common to get a 3/4 ton nicely equipped pickup for LESS MONEY than a 1/2 ton. And get significantly more capability at the same time. There is not a 1/2 ton being made, with all the bells and whistles and max tow stuff thrown in, that can even come close to my gas engine equipped Chevy 3/4 ton in both payload and towing capability. And with many of the lighter (under 7000 lb) TT's, especially those with wide spaced, equaflex, or torsion suspension axles, there is not even a need for a WDH with a 3/4 ton. That cuts a lot of hassle out right there.
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Old 02-25-2018, 10:12 AM   #26
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I am fortunate in that my 2500, even with the snowplow on it, fits in my heated garage. Not much room left to walk around, but can still squeeze by when the garage door is closed.

It can indeed be different out west compared to the midwest, but that is dependent on where one goes to. It can be just as tricky to get into some dispersed camping areas of the midwest. Maybe not a 7 mile hill climb like out west, but still some pretty steep grades and tight cornering. There are a couple of hills on the gravel road to my home in Iowa that are steeper grades than most highway grades out west. Just not as long, obviously. But then, a lot of people make comparisons about areas of the country based on major highway running only.

Anyone who likes to try and make these comparisons, I recommend they give U.S. Hwy 20 from Dubuque, IA to Stockton, IL (a major traffic route) a try sometime with a 30ft trailer behind them and see how easy it is. Especially at night. And SE Ohio can really be a white knuckle experience towing on some of those rural highways in Amish country. Southern Indiana has some interesting areas that are great for camping, but a PITA to yank a trailer around. I have over 5 million commercial driving miles under my seat and have driven all 48 and Alaska along with most of the provinces of Canada except the Atlantic ones. Each area has unique situations the can be compared with other areas.

The only major difference is elevations. Greater than 6% grades are not a out west exclusive.
10-4 on the tough grades. I grew up in Cedar Rapids and familiar with the territory.

My point is, out here they are much more prevalent and longer if you live in this area. It should be a major consideration if you do.

Towed my TT all over the mountainous west, Utah, Idaho, Wyoming, Montana and Colorado.

I-70 to the Eisenhower tunnel from either direction is tough, especially if your towing with a gasser. Elevations effect them more than a diesel.
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Old 02-25-2018, 10:40 AM   #27
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And elevations, I will concede freely that diesel, or even a turbo gasser, is at an advantage. A NA engine is gasping for air at high elevations, whereas a engine that is have air shoved down its throat does much better.
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Old 03-04-2018, 12:15 AM   #28
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I tow my 23 RLSW with a 2016 5.7 litre Toyota Tundra and it's fine. Never taxes motor. even up and down mountains in western Maryland it was great. towed fro Virginia to NY without breaking a sweat.
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Old 03-04-2018, 09:35 AM   #29
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See my comments in the Max tow or not thread. Thanks for all the discussion and points to consider.
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Old 03-04-2018, 09:39 PM   #30
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First post on the forum.
Been eyeing this model for awhile. Really drawn to the layout as it's just the wife and me. Have a Nissan Titan Super King 4x4. Believe I will be fine, as I'm looking at a tad less than 80% capacity (15,300 GCWR) when running the numbers (not being conservative on our weights). Can anybody tell me if there is a difference between the RL and the RLSW, as they appear to be the same layout? Didn't know if there were some subtle differences.
Also, would it be do-able to swap out the jackknife sofa for a couple of small recliners or a reclining love seat? Won't really have a need for the additional sleeping and would like something a little more comfy for watching TV, reading, etc.
Thanks!
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Old 03-05-2018, 05:54 AM   #31
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I'm pretty sure that the model designations were just a change in model years and that the TT's are the same. I don't see any problem in switching out the sofa. It is held to the floor with a couple of brackets that are easily removed. You'll want to fashion some type of new connections to keep the new item from moving around while towing. We love our 23RL. For two people with occasional camp buddies over for dinner or an evening of TV or games, it is the perfect size.
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Old 03-05-2018, 09:57 AM   #32
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I have a 2016 23RLSW. I believe it is the same floorplan and just the model designation has changed.

I've done the swap you asked about. Took out the POS jack knife sofa and replaced it with a reclining love seat.

I bought it at a local furniture store. Measure carefully because of the wall in front of the entrance door, it's a tight squeeze getting thru the opening.

Make sure the backs come off of the sofa or recliners.

More to it than just changing the furniture. On my model year the power cord storage box was underneath the jack knife sofa so I had to convert the power cord to a detachable type and removed the box.

At the same time I added a hard wired EMS with the remote display behind the new sofa.

Well worth the money and effort to do this mod.

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Old 03-05-2018, 10:01 AM   #33
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Old 03-05-2018, 11:20 AM   #34
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Thanks for the feedback and pix. Looks great! I did look underneath the sofa on the 2018 and there is no power cord box there now. Should make the swap out easier.eondrting why they don’t give the option for love seat-recliner with the negatives surrounding the jack knife sofa.
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Old 03-05-2018, 12:32 PM   #35
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Quote:
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Thanks for the feedback and pix. Looks great! I did look underneath the sofa on the 2018 and there is no power cord box there now. Should make the swap out easier.eondrting why they don’t give the option for love seat-recliner with the negatives surrounding the jack knife sofa.
Hopefully they made a detachable power cord standard for the 2018.

It's very comfortable now for watching TV, etc.

Just the wife & I also so it's pretty much a perfect floor plan other than limited clothes storage and no ducted furnace which I would prefer.
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Old 03-05-2018, 12:58 PM   #36
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recliners

Wire-man that is exactly what I want to do, we have the same model.
Please tell me about your EMS
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Old 03-05-2018, 01:32 PM   #37
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I bought the model EMW-HW30C for my 30 amp service. I preferred the hard wire model instead of the portable model.

It has the remote display also. Very easy to wire into the service power cord and on the 23RLSW model it's pretty much relegated to behind the couch.

Can be purchased on Amazon or other RV parts supply companies.

I think I bought mine on Jet.com.

Progressive Industries, Inc. | Rv Surge Protection

https://www.ebay.com/i/181439294148?chn=ps

Videos on basic install.



Remote display location.

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Old 03-05-2018, 01:43 PM   #38
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Thanks for the feedback and pix. Looks great! I did look underneath the sofa on the 2018 and there is no power cord box there now. Should make the swap out easier.eondrting why they don’t give the option for love seat-recliner with the negatives surrounding the jack knife sofa.
If you change out the existing sofa, I'm sure what ever you buy will intrude somewhat into the drawer area and limit them from fully opening.

That's ok with me for a more comfortable couch. Compromise here and there.

See my photo.


The existing sofa was made so shallow because of the drawer placement hence it made it very uncomfortable.
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Old 03-05-2018, 03:54 PM   #39
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Wire-man. Does the EMS function ok when you are using an inverter/generator?
Bob
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Old 03-05-2018, 04:24 PM   #40
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Wire-man. Does the EMS function ok when you are using an inverter/generator?
Bob
I can't answer that. I don't have a generator or have ever seen that question asked before.

The best think would to go to the Progressive Industries website and call them with the question at the number shown.
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