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Old 07-17-2014, 09:26 AM   #1
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26BH Air Conditioning

Hello all,

Just curious to get feedback from folks on the adequacy of cooling from the AC on the 26BH. Particularly those with ambient temps 95+. We have a 2009 26BH, that we do not seem to be able to cool off until late in the evening.

Of course, one of the challenges is keeping kids from going in and out. We have added covers to the windows, which helps a little. I have also cleaned the coil and replaced the filter.

We have friends with similar configs who are able to cool their campers much better than what we are experiencing.

I am considering one of three options at this point: Check unit for freon leaks/add valve for charging; larger AC; or even a different camper (condiering this anyway with three kids) Any feedback/thoughts are appreciated.

Thanks,

Eric
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Old 07-17-2014, 10:30 AM   #2
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My AC is adequate for the space. It does take a while for it to cool down the space, but once it's cool it keeps it cool. Our biggest complaint is that the thermostat doesn't seem to be very accurate in its ability to regulate the temperature. I'd look at that as a possible culprit too.
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Old 07-17-2014, 10:35 AM   #3
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2013 - 264Bh (close enough).. Took it out a couple of weeks ago.. Average temp. Sunny and mid 90's.. Took a few hours to cool down, but got very cold..
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Old 07-17-2014, 11:19 AM   #4
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What size unit do you have? We have the 15000 btu Coleman in ours and it kept up well this past weekend with the outside temps in the low to mid 90s even with out kids runnng in and out all the time. Not sure if these units work like an home a/c but have you looked at cleaning the coils and filter?
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Old 07-17-2014, 11:50 AM   #5
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Honestly, I am not certain of the size. When I pulled the filter I did not see a data placard. I assume it is up top. I had a water lead about a month ago when the drain plugged. I cleaned the coil and put in a new filter at that time. One thing I did do a little different was to take a home filter and size it to the unit. This should help keep the coil cleaner and it should not affect draw from the intake. Glad other folks are having better luck. It bumms me out that I am not able to keep up with this Texas heat. Next thing I might check is the seal up on the roof to make sure I am not taking in outside air.
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Old 07-17-2014, 11:53 AM   #6
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How hard is it to change out the condenser if I decide to take that route?
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Old 07-17-2014, 12:56 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobcat94 View Post
Hello all,

Just curious to get feedback from folks on the adequacy of cooling from the AC on the 26BH. Particularly those with ambient temps 95+. We have a 2009 26BH, that we do not seem to be able to cool off until late in the evening.

Of course, one of the challenges is keeping kids from going in and out. We have added covers to the windows, which helps a little. I have also cleaned the coil and replaced the filter.

We have friends with similar configs who are able to cool their campers much better than what we are experiencing.

I am considering one of three options at this point: Check unit for freon leaks/add valve for charging; larger AC; or even a different camper (condiering this anyway with three kids) Any feedback/thoughts are appreciated.

Thanks,

Eric
Before adding any valves to charge the unit, I would check the amperage at the compressor the see if it matched the RLA(run load amps) depending on how hot it is you may be at RLA or just below. You'll find the RLA rating on the data plate. These units hold very little refrigerant. They are considered critical charged systems. As an alternative you would have to recover the refrigerant, weigh it to see if you are low. Personally, I would avoid that path. Unless you have the training in refrigerant handling you open a can of worms that will cost big $$$. Also I think the newer A/C units on RV's are R-410A. They operate at a higher pressure than the R-22 units.

Changing out the unit for the exact same unit would be easy, you'll want help from a strong person and be careful to cover the rubber roof while your doing it. Tearing a hole in the rubber would be bad.

Just my thoughts,

Mark
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Old 07-17-2014, 01:14 PM   #8
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Thanks for the reply. My father is a retired A/C guy. I am planning on going to his place this weekend to try some diagnostics before I do anything drastic. Now that I know that the issue is not just Texas heat, we will see if we can give this unit some TLC before replacing.

Thanks for all the input folks
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Old 07-17-2014, 01:49 PM   #9
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Thanks for the reply. My father is a retired A/C guy. I am planning on going to his place this weekend to try some diagnostics before I do anything drastic. Now that I know that the issue is not just Texas heat, we will see if we can give this unit some TLC before replacing.

Thanks for all the input folks
If your dad did A/C work for a living...you are in great hands. He will have that unit running like new.

I am an A/C service tech myself. It's a great trade. Good luck to you.
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Old 07-17-2014, 05:01 PM   #10
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Before you tear into this unit and create more problems than you can fix, measure compressor amp draw. The amperage on the data plate is based on an ambient temp of 95 degrees. A 10 degree change in ambient temp will cause a change of 1A in compressor draw. Interpolate in between. If the data plate says 14A, and the temp is 100, then you should read 14.5A. That will tell you if the unit is properly charged. This test is valid for both R22 and R410a.
I doubt you are low on charge. These units only hold a pound or so, so any type of leak is going to blow the entire charge and then there is no cooling.

I think your time would be better spent inspecting and taping the plenum where is goes into the ceiling vents(if it is a ducted unit) and around the ceiling registers. RV AC ducting is by nature installed very sloppily and you may be dumping cold air into the ceiling area where it is going to do you no good.
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