Accidentally drilled holes through the exterior wall of my Jayflight

[freetime58]

Originally Posted by gypsmjim

huh what?

You don't believe the paint peel issue, or you don't know what the paint difference is?

You only made one claim in your statement and that was, "the acetic acid in the silicone would dissolve the paint and peel it down to bare metal".

So that was the only thing in your post that required a, HUH? For clarification!

Wonder what basis you have for making such a statement?

[gypsmjim]

Originally Posted by freetime58

You only made one claim in your statement and that was, "the acetic acid in the silicone would dissolve the paint and peel it down to bare metal".

So that was the only thing in your post that required a, HUH? For clarification!

Wonder what basis you have for making such a statement?

I apologize for my original post. It was a loaded question. I already knew the answer.

When my son bought his first car, he tried to fix a leak in the windshield with clear silicone - the acid curing type. The paint peeled all the way around and rusted in a few days, basically ruining the roof of the car. At the time he did it on his own without asking for advice.

Nothing like first hand experience.

I think acid cure silicone and auto rust is not an unknown issue. What I didn't know was if RV paint is of some different chemistry vs. auto paint.

(BTW, I am a retired ChE with 48 years of professional experience, 30 of those years as a paint chemist.)

PS......our RV is parked next to a rifle range. I put some bullet hole stickers on the side access door just for laughs. Everyone that comes to our camp thinks they are cool. Put a wood dowel in the hole and glue in with epoxy. Put a sticker on top. Google the stickers on EBay. They only cost a couple bucks for a whole package.

[1Cruzin]

I agree with the Marine Tex .... Can't beat it. I had made a 1/4 x 3 inch gash in my Whitehawk. Filled it with the Marine Tex, sanded, sprayed with clear coat and then applied a small Jayco sticker. It looks great.

[kdduke]

Cutting corners for a quick repair is not a good idea! Get a fibreglass repair kit. Better yet get someone who has knowledge in repairs do it for you. Majority of units today are in a gel coat paint finish. "NEVER" use silicone on fibreglass if you plan on repairing it properly and painting it! Silicone is your worse nightmare when it comes to painting, as it won't stick! or as in body shop terms "fisheyes" - paint will not bond and silicone contaminates surface. Then becomes a bigger frustrating repair.

[Bayoutalker]

Originally Posted by RogerR

Silicone will not stick to the rv as it flexes with travel and temperature changes. Also, water can get under silicone so it doesn't do the job for very long.


Read up on sealants on the search bar above in the gold band.

I have to disagree. I was a boat mechanic for over 40 years and used a lot of silicone to seal engine bolts, screws, etc. But you must use a silicone rubber sealant made for below the waterline such as 3M 4200 or 5200. Loctite makes a good product too. It is flexible and will not turn loose. The 5200 is permanent so make sure and don't use it anywhere you may want to remove it. I have pulled fiberglass apart trying to remove it.

[icr21801]

Originally Posted by falconsfan0894

Hello folks!

In a moment of sheer stupidity I drilled holes for a wall television mount through the wall of my Jayflight. I now have 4 1/4 inch holes in the side of the trailer and I need both advice and guidance.

I have sealed the holes with flex-seal tape and silicone so I am pretty sure it will leak so I am not worried about that.

What I am concerned about is if I get this repaired by Camping World will it void my Jayco warranty.

Also, Camping World wants $1,500 dollars to fix 4 holes smaller than the tip of my pinkie finger, is it worth it?

If it isn't what be a better way to seal up the holes?

I have covered them with flex tape and sealed over that with clear silicone.

What do you you guys think?

Thanks

Adam

Put a mount on the exterior wall with a removable TV bracket to cover the holes after you’ve sealed them, tell everyone it’s for tailgating/outdoor movie night and that you absolutely had planned to do so all along.

Don’t beat yourself up. Most of us have had the same “oh s**t” feeling working on one project or another.

[LittleBill]

I had a hole about 1/2" diameter on the back of my 2006 26BHS. I went to my local RV dealer and got a piece of what I think was ExternaBond. Worked great, a little expensive. It's mainly for roofs but seems to work on the aluminum sides also. As with everything else you can get it on Amazon. Walmart has it for under $10 for 5ft. https://www.walmart.com/ip/4-quot-WH...xoChd4QAvD_BwE

'Worth a try, it you don't mind the look of the patch.

[freetime58]

Originally Posted by kdduke

Cutting corners for a quick repair is not a good idea! Get a fibreglass repair kit. Better yet get someone who has knowledge in repairs do it for you. Majority of units today are in a gel coat paint finish. "NEVER" use silicone on fibreglass if you plan on repairing it properly and painting it! Silicone is your worse nightmare when it comes to painting, as it won't stick! or as in body shop terms "fisheyes" - paint will not bond and silicone contaminates surface. Then becomes a bigger frustrating repair.

WRONG...... plenty of paintable silicone choices out there just have to make sure it is if you intend to paint it.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-Silic...7000/100012232

[Bayoutalker]

This is the type silicone sealant I would recommend if that is the direction you are inclined to go.


Loctite Clear Silicone Waterproof Sealant 2.7-Ounce Tube (908570) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BBX3U..._NTYXDbFA62FT4

If this is to be a permanent repair this is a good choice.


3M Marine Adhesive Sealant 5200, PN05203, White, 3 oz Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AY6AO..._KWYXDbCNAGH9H

[gypsmjim]

Silicone schmillicone...Fiberglass repair kit???

The OP has yet to tell us if he has a tin can or a fiberglass walled trailer, so suggestions may vary.

My latest idea - use a rosette.

[lrousseau]

a fifth wheel trailer we had about four years ago, I had a hole in the baggage door from a rock that was thrown from a lawn mower. I went to my local Rv dealer and he sold me a tube of Apoxy that I used to fill the quarter inch size hole in the baggage door on the side of the rig. It took me a couple of days to build up the Apoxy until I had a smooth finish at the end. The color blended fairly well To the regular color of the rig. I would recommend that you check with your dealer to see if they sell an Apoxy similar to what I’m describing.

[Bayoutalker]

Originally Posted by gypsmjim

Silicone schmillicone...Fiberglass repair kit???

The OP has yet to tell us if he has a tin can or a fiberglass walled trailer, so suggestions may vary.

My latest idea - use a rosette.

That's why I suggested the silicone. It will work on either surfaces either as a temp fix or permanent. I do like the rosette idea though. Lol

[Teddy]

Originally Posted by Bayoutalker

I have to disagree. I was a boat mechanic for over 40 years and used a lot of silicone to seal engine bolts, screws, etc. But you must use a silicone rubber sealant made for below the waterline such as 3M 4200 or 5200. Loctite makes a good product too. It is flexible and will not turn loose. The 5200 is permanent so make sure and don't use it anywhere you may want to remove it. I have pulled fiberglass apart trying to remove it.

Sorry, boat mechanic of over 40 years, but 3M's 4200 and 5200 are not silicone products, they are both urethane adhesive/sealants. Both are preferable to silicone products in terms of lasting durability. However, a good quality silicone like General Electric silicone will work perfectly well, especially if you use it in conjunction with a good hole plug or stainless or aluminum screw (tipped later with matching paint or left neat and proud). The repair will last years and yet, be almost instantly reversible with just a screwdriver.

Note: Those 3 M products work extremely well but are much more permanent and not easily removed, not to mention they are very expensive materials - much more expensive than a good quality silicone adhesive/sealant.

Also, I would like to clarify something someone else said about Marine Tex.
Marine Tex is an epoxy product. While the 3M products must be applied to a clean dry surface, Marine Tex will cure even under-water or in the presence of fuel. All three are Marine grade products and will continue to seal or bond, in conditions where it is constantly submerged underwater. Thus, all three are, perhaps, overkill for the exterior vertical wall of your recreational vehicle but you certainly won't be compromising the effectiveness of longevity of your fix by using them.

To the original question about what to use to effect your repair, it is important to first identify the type of material that comprises the exterior wall that you drilled through. Most late model recreational vehicle walls are composite walls consisting of sandwiched foam cores (usually styrene or urethane foam) and/or aluminum framing with thin aluminum, fiberglass or plastic exterior skins and interior skins of plywood, vinyl or phenolic resin impregnated material. These composite materials are sandwiched together with a bonding agent (usually another non silicone adhesive/sealant.) Select a hole filling material that is compatible with the exterior siding material and the walls foam-filled center.

So, pick your poison.. There are many effective sealants that will do the job very nicely and efficiently, some much cheaper than others, some solutions are easier to apply and some solutions are more durable.

However, fiberglass repair kits that involve embedding glass fabric or tape into epoxy resin are way overkill and can cause more problems than they cure and are, by comparison, way too time consuming and will likely require cosmetic treatment or refinishing afterwards.

An effective alternative is to put some microsphere particles into some clear or
tinted epoxy (modelers, boat builders and pattern makers know what I'm talking about) Cram the mixture into the hole and use a spatula to level the mixture flush with the top of the hole, clearing off any excess material and then tape over the top of the filled holes with clear packaging tape to prevent the mixture from oozing out until the epoxy mixture cures hard (usually just a few minutes.). If done carefully, there is very little clean-up afterward and the microspheres in the epoxy render the filler epoxy as tough as metal and virtually waterproof - capable of outlasting the walls themselves.

-Teddy

[gypsmjim]

This thread is lasting way too long....LOL. Not rocket science and not really that important. If it were on the hood of your car, or on the wall in your family room just above the beloved TV, that would be one thing. But its on the side of a house trailer and nobody will ever notice it or care if they did.

Buy a white 5/16" nylon screw (substitute SS, black plastic or whatever), dab on some Elmers Glue and screw it in the hole.

[Teddy]

Originally Posted by Bayoutalker

This is the type silicone sealant I would recommend if that is the direction you are inclined to go.


Loctite Clear Silicone Waterproof Sealant 2.7-Ounce Tube (908570) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BBX3U..._NTYXDbFA62FT4

If this is to be a permanent repair this is a good choice.


3M Marine Adhesive Sealant 5200, PN05203, White, 3 oz Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AY6AO..._KWYXDbCNAGH9H

Hello Bayoutalker... Did you know that most silicones are not paintable and that 3M's 4200 and 5200 are urethane products, not silicone. Also, 3 M urethane products are paintable. In fact paintability and superior salt water and weather performance are reasons these 3 M products are used for bedding hardware or windshields, windows of all kinds, transom splash-wells, keel and side moldings, and bonding, bedding or attaching dissimilar materials that need to remain flexible (not rigid).
-Teddy

[Teddy]

Originally Posted by gypsmjim

This thread is lasting way too long....LOL. Not rocket science and not really that important. If it were on the hood of your car, or on the wall in your family room just above the beloved TV, that would be one thing. But its on the side of a house trailer and nobody will ever notice it or care if they did.

Buy a white 5/16" nylon screw (substitute SS, black plastic or whatever), dab on some Elmers Glue and screw it in the hole.

Sorta common sense and mostly true.. However, don't tell Elmer but his glue is not waterproof. Thank goodness you don't build rockets in the rain. :>)
-Teddy

[Bayoutalker]

Originally Posted by Teddy

Hello Bayoutalker... Did you know that most silicones are not paintable and that 3M's 4200 and 5200 are urethane products, not silicone. Also, 3 M urethane products are paintable. In fact paintability and superior salt water and weather performance are reasons these 3 M products are used for bedding hardware or windshields, windows of all kinds, transom splash-wells, keel and side moldings, and bonding, bedding or attaching dissimilar materials that need to remain flexible (not rigid).

-Teddy

That's why the silicone for a temp solution and the 3M for a permanent patch.

[gypsmjim]

Originally Posted by Teddy

Sorta common sense and mostly true.. However, don't tell Elmer but his glue is not waterproof. Thank goodness you don't build rockets in the rain. :>)
-Teddy

I apologize again. I guess you missed my sarcasm. All this misinformation about sillycones (the 100% types that cause rust and are not paintable) and the schmillicones that are paintable (the cheep stuff blended with sillycones) just got to me.

Actually though, crosslinked PVAs ARE waterproof, such as Elmers Wood Glue and Elmers Glue all. They make several varieties and I'm sorry I wasn't more specific.

Regardless, even the best Elmers are still not suitable for water immersion. If you want the best and are afraid your RV may get waterlogged, best to go with the 3M marine grade stuff.

[txauditr-ret.]

I purchased a 2017 Hummingbird last year and did the same thing as you. I drilled exactly where the factory positioned the markers and BOOM it went all the way through the outer wall. I contacted the dealer and Jayco and they said that since I didn't move the factory sticker the repair would be covered under warranty. I took it to the dealer and they plugged the hole and I told them to add another coordinating decal over it to ensure no leaks. They did that and I have had no problems since. Only thing I paid for was the additional decal.
They both told me that the plug was epoxy based rather than silicone.

[mhunt37]

Great ideas,, I had to smile about this post. I would drive golf tees into the holes from the out side, then cut them flush and then sealing it with OSI Quad.

Regards