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Old 04-15-2012, 10:24 AM   #11
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Many 3000 watt converters have a 30a RV plug but if you read the fine print it is only 25a max. before it trips
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Old 04-15-2012, 10:35 AM   #12
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Unfortunately not, the total amp load of that outlet is 15a whether using one or both.
Good to know....., and must account for the fact that in only a few cases have I heard that using this style adapter with a single Honda EU2000i will it even run one TT A/C (the cases where it did had to have been under ideal/specific conditions).

Question (I'm not an electrical guy): What is gained by using the dual 15amp/30amp adapter in lieu of a single 15amp/30amp adapter??

Bob
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Old 04-15-2012, 10:38 AM   #13
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1. Better connection.
2. Nobody plugs anything in other socket
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Old 04-15-2012, 10:44 AM   #14
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working 110 outlets off batteries

Go Power! makes a kit that will hook up your 110 outlets off battery power, but you would have to seriously upgrade your battery bank. You still won't be able to run the AC. I have two 110 amp hour batteries on mine and plan on going to 3 in the future. It's enough to run my CPAP and TT heater all night. I have one solar panel and a 300 watt inverter. With this setup I can go several days before needing a recharge. I plan on going to 2 solar panels in the future.

Electric blankets will probably pull a lot more amps than my CPAP does.

Just as a warning I decided to run a 1000-1500 watt electric heater in my TT when connected to shore power and it pulled too many watts for the 30 amp adapter and it melted the adapter to the TT's power cord. Be careful of your wattage usage. Watts are determined by multiplying the volts times the amps of the device or combination of devices running at the same time.

Go Power!'s website has a power usage calculator to determine your needs.

You will probably need at least a 1500 watt inverter which can come with the kit you order. Understand you will not be able run the inverter 24 hours a day. When not in use you need to turn the inverter off. Energy management is very important when you intend to dry camp for long periods of time.
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Old 04-15-2012, 04:24 PM   #15
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Two things I would mention:

1) Get a Kill-a-watt and measure the current so you know what each item needs.
2) Dogbones make better adapters and are less likely to get hot and melt.
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Old 04-15-2012, 05:33 PM   #16
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Wow..you guys are great. Thanks for the info.


Sincerely,
T.
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Old 04-19-2012, 11:52 AM   #17
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Two things I would mention:

1) Get a Kill-a-watt and measure the current so you know what each item needs.
2) Dogbones make better adapters and are less likely to get hot and melt.
Got a dogbone with a grip. Like it a lot. Much heftier than the one I had.
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Old 04-19-2012, 12:25 PM   #18
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The specific twist lock plug on most 30A generators is a NEMA 5L-30. I use the Camco 55333 adapter on my Yamaha 3K boost which converts it to a 30A RV plug.

I also use a 700W hardwired inverter off 2 x 6V GC batteries for TV, laptop or other small electronics use while not running the genny when off the grid.

You have 3 options - solar, batteries and inverter. Genny, less batteries and smaller inverter. Or just a genny and stock equipment but no 120V unless genny is on.

All have their respective advantages so it's a personal choice. If you need high drawing items like A/C all the time then a genny would be your fastest and cheapest option.

My Yamaha is rated at 58db from 7ft. It is very quiet and even less when in econo mode for it's size. It is heavy though,160-170 with full fuel.
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Old 04-19-2012, 01:08 PM   #19
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I have had a Honda EU2000 Generator for 8 years. It is super quiet, weighs 46 lbs, and will run everything except the AC.

Tom
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