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Old 04-30-2016, 08:52 PM   #1
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Can't Level the Trailer/Slide

I bought a 2015 267 bhsw last year and I can seem to get the trailer level from side to side. I have levelled the lot I am parked on. When I park the trailer the trailer has a slight lean towards the slide out (when the slide is still in), roughly off by 3/4 inch from side to side. When I push the slide out the trailer drops slightly towards the slide maybe another 1/4 inch. The worst part is the dinette table is sloped towards the exterior wall and is roughly off level by 2 inches in the same direction as the slide. Is this normal? It has been like this since I bought the trailer new.
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Old 04-30-2016, 08:55 PM   #2
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if it's dropping that much, just from running the slide out, I'd suspect a spring or suspension problem.
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Old 04-30-2016, 09:20 PM   #3
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In addition to a possible suspension problem and I'm by no means an expert, but the extra weight from the slide may cause the lean. At my seasonal site we put a piece of 2x8 under the tires on the slide side to help level things out. Does the slide itself look ok when out? Does it look square to the trailer and not drooping? Is the tire pressure ok on the slide side?
Just some ideas.
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Old 04-30-2016, 10:01 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by 2015 267bshw View Post
I bought a 2015 267 bhsw last year and I can seem to get the trailer level from side to side. I have levelled the lot I am parked on. When I park the trailer the trailer has a slight lean towards the slide out (when the slide is still in), roughly off by 3/4 inch from side to side. When I push the slide out the trailer drops slightly towards the slide maybe another 1/4 inch. The worst part is the dinette table is sloped towards the exterior wall and is roughly off level by 2 inches in the same direction as the slide. Is this normal? It has been like this since I bought the trailer new.
This may be a stupid question, but my manual says not to extend the slideout until the trailer is leveled and the stabilzers have been set; not familiar with your exact model, but have you set your stabilizers? (Assuming you have them on that unit.)
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Old 04-30-2016, 11:01 PM   #5
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I will try adding an extra piece of wood under the slide side and will check the air pressure. The interior trim is not flush with the remainder of the interior wall, there is about an inch gap between the trim at the bottom and the wall, the trim at the top is flush, I checked a friend's trailer from a different maker and it had the same gap (the seals are touching though). Jayco told me that there should be some of a tipout so that water runs away from the trailer but the slope on the dinette table seems a little extreme. I put the slide out before I put the stabilizers down put the floor only dropped 1/4 of an inch after pushing out the slide. Thanks for the help.
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Old 05-01-2016, 08:50 AM   #6
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My experience is most TT's are built without the carpenter using a square. Floors, counters, tables, bumpers all give me a slightly different reading with a level.

Even with the stabilizers down my TT will list to port when I put the slide out so I always block those tires half a bubble high and the weight of the slide will bring it back to level.
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Old 05-01-2016, 12:44 PM   #7
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Are you using a long level on the floor in the middle of the of the TT to get your readings? That place will be your best bet for the most accurate reading. The frame will twist a little when you start lifting one end or the front or the back and may throw off your exterior readings. When the level bubble shows level, your doors and cabinet doors should not swing (if they were mounted properly). Level side/side first, then front/back second.

There are a zillion recommendations on how to level a TT, so you get to read one more...mine

The best way I found is to compensate for the street side drop when you extend the slide:

1. The first time level the TT with the slide-out (using the level on the floor of the TT and no jacks or stabilizers). Use wood or plastic blocks under the wheels.
2. Now that you have the TT level with the slide out, pull the slide-out back in (still no jacks or stabilizers).
3. Now mount your visual bubble levels so they read level (this will compensate for the difference when you extend the slideout)

So now when you pull into the CG, you level the TT using the compensated leveling bubble.. then extend the slide out and you TT is level. (With the slide-out out your bubble will not be centered.)

Works great for us.

Don
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Old 05-01-2016, 10:21 PM   #8
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Thanks for the advice. I am getting the feeling that the slide can really lean the trailer. I am not surprised, the slide has the dinette and the sofa so lots of weight. This is my first slide.
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Old 05-01-2016, 10:28 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mustang65 View Post
The best way I found is to compensate for the street side drop when you extend the slide:

1. The first time level the TT with the slide-out (using the level on the floor of the TT and no jacks or stabilizers). Use wood or plastic blocks under the wheels.
2. Now that you have the TT level with the slide out, pull the slide-out back in (still no jacks or stabilizers).
3. Now mount your visual bubble levels so they read level (this will compensate for the difference when you extend the slideout)

So now when you pull into the CG, you level the TT using the compensated leveling bubble.. then extend the slide out and you TT is level. (With the slide-out out your bubble will not be centered.)

Works great for us.

Don
Great thought, I never thought about doing it like that. But then again, I never noticed that the side-to-side leveling changed when our slide goes out... now I am going to have to check it next time. If it does, it certainly isnt much.
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Old 05-02-2016, 08:25 PM   #10
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Great thought, I never thought about doing it like that. But then again, I never noticed that the side-to-side leveling changed when our slide goes out... now I am going to have to check it next time. If it does, it certainly isnt much.
Probably not every slide-out has the same effect on how much the trailer sags on the street side when it is extended. Ours sags almost 3 degrees, which causes the interior door to slowly swing open, same with the fridge door if you open it a little, and the cabinet doors... now they stay where you open them to

DW is much happier now....

This (so far) has done the trick.

Don
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