Enclosed underbelly

[CBCOCRBO]

I had to remove the rear section of my enclosed underbelly to replace the slide gate valve on my black water tank. It was on the far side of the unit on a long sheathed cable. Not a fun job and I had to remove the whole section including the insulation. No way to put it back together so I furred out the frame with some pressure treated 2X4's put in two inches of rigid foam insulation and sheathed it over with 1/2" high density plywood with a coat of black Flex Seal. My trailer is stationary and it has worked well for me. I am now replacing the unit with a new 2020 Jay Flight 29RKS. It is at the dealership now.

[jimp]

Originally Posted by Jeff chavez

Hope the underbelly keeps my heat in .
Spending a winter in Alaska . I have skirted with 2 inch insulation foam board .
Wish me luck . Has anyone done this before .

Not done it, no real desire either.

You better be on REAL good terms with your heater. We've camped in the mid 20's overnight, and snow, with highs in the 40's or 50's during the fall/spring in E TN. Furnace runs a lot, might consider some electric heaters to supplement the propane furnace as the insulation packages are not really designed for Alaska temps.

[mokurt]

Originally Posted by 33 RLDS

When I had to open mine to change leaky black tank valve found garbage in there. Empty bags and screws and what not.

Ya they sure don't clean out the covered areas!

I found wood chips and metal chips behind some panels.

[wabirch]

Peace of mind for upper twenties camping. Would favor a sectioned design and a set of pictures for where things are before they closed it up.